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Description

Warning: route lengths in Miramontes (2014) are way short, for example Crank Queenie given as 40ft actually was about 100ft from the ledge start, or 115ft from the base.

Approach

From the sign-post and garbage bins, walk leftwards around the formation, then scramble up to the wall.

Descent Notes

Rappel off natural anchor near the end of the crack With Malice and Forethought climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 R East Meets West Trad
3
5.11a * Absence of Malice Top rope
4
5.8 Double Crux Trad
5
5.10b * (fun top rope) Top rope 82ft

Start on the right side of the large hueco, pull straight up the steep start, then up easier but fun climbing above.

6
5.8 Mosiac Trad
7
5.6 Diso Sucks Trad
8
5.8 * Crank Queenie Trad 100ft

Start up a wide right-sloping crack to a sloping ledge then up a thin crack above. Follow this crack as it deepens, becomes steep, and continues upwards. Finally step left and build an anchor.

Rappel off natural anchor climber's left.

Activity

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