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Description:

The lower section, farther to the left.

Descent Notes:

For climbs that finish at the top of the main block, walk (climber's) left along the top, then scramble down. For climbs that finish on the ledge in the center, rappel Norm (on the left) or the rap anchor at the right end of the ledge. For the climbs farther right, rappel Mojus.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Foot Massage
5.10b
Mixed 70ft , 4
2 Norm
5.10a
Sport 80ft , 5
3 Snake Oil
5.7
Trad 80ft
4 Leap Erickson

Bolts for the climb, medium cams for the anchor.

5.10b
Mixed 100ft , 7
5 ** Leap Year Flake
5.7
Trad 90ft
6 Chili Dog
5.6
Unknown
7 * The Mojus / Slushie
5.10c
Sport 100ft , 8
8 * Addams Family / Get Right or Get Left
5.9
Trad 100ft
9 Gomez
5.11c
Mixed 90ft , 4
10 Lurch

My photo from 2012 suggests the nature of this climb may have greatly changed due to rock movement since the guide photon in Miramontes guide book (2011).

5.8
Trad 90ft

The following four routes start from a ledge above Snake Oil and Leap Erickson.

11 * Brother From Another Planet
5.11a R
Mixed 30ft , 3
12 * Electric Free Gordon
5.12a R
Mixed 35ft , 4
13 *** Pat Adams Dihedral
5.11c
Trad 35ft
14 ** Toxic Waltz
5.12a
Mixed 35ft , 4