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Starts on the right side of the base of Saddle Rock, just left of the gully, and just right of a roof about 20m up.

  1. 5.8 (40m). Climb up initial scoops to a high first bolt. From there angle up and left past two more bolts, then up passing the roof on the left. Now, angle rightwards above the roof past two more bolts, then back left to a 6th bolt, then up to anchors near a large hole. This pitch wanders a lot, to reduce rope-drag issues, extend the first clip with a long sling, and the 3rd clip with a double-length sling, same for the 5th (or skip the fifth bolt).

  2. 5.7 (30m) Climb directly up from the anchor past 4 bolts, then angle left to find the next belay.

  3. 5.5 (20m) Climb up past a bolt to the final anchors.

Though this climb is protected only by bolts, with no gear placements, it is not by any measure a modern sport route. There are sizeable run-outs and rope-management issues that would not be expected on a sport climb.

Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Saddle Rock approx:
Long/Lat: -116.139665,33.994142

Route Grade Citations

5.8, 5.7, 5.5 Community registered grade
5.7 ** Michael Frost
5.7+ *** Rock Climbing Guide: Joshua Tree
5.7+ *** Southwest Rock Climbing SoCal Select
5.8 *** Joshua Tree National Park California: Classic Rock Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux good great fun classic flake face

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