Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Kentucky 1,820 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -84.986661, 37.474942

1.1. Dawson Bluffs 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. Red River Gorge 1,818 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.671185, 37.753860

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep featured sandstone.

Description:

A set of cliffs on solid sandstone. Climbs are generally steep with good holds -- often the pump is the problem, not the moves themselves.

A good, searchable, database/guidebook is available at: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/

Access Issues:

Vary from area to area: some public land, some private land, some land held by the Red River Gorge climber's coalition.

Approach:

Varies from crag to crag.

Where To Stay:

Miguel's campground. Land of the Arches campground. Many hotels and B&Bs in the area.

1.2.1. Gray's Branch Region 99 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.664324, 37.821792

1.2.2. Lower Gorge Region 210 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.683721, 37.880770

1.2.3. Northern Gorge Region 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.618826, 37.869715

Access Issues:

Most crags are located on Forest Service land. Look out for Forest Service signs showing restrictions. Mariba Fork is in the Clifty Wilderness Area.

1.2.4. Middle Gorge Region 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.2.5. Upper Gorge Region 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.6. Eastern Gorge Region 82 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.583382, 37.815629

1.2.7. Tunnel Ridge Road Region 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.682841, 37.820781

1.2.8. Natural Bridge Region 170 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.661000, 37.737565

Access Issues:

Torrent Falls, Beer Trailer Crag, and Roadside are all on private property. Please respect the landowners so not to ruin access to these areas.

1.2.9. Muir Valley 266 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.632631, 37.727881

Description:

Muir Valley is a recreational and rock climbing area owned and maintained by Friends of Muir Valley. Originally owned by Rick and Liz Weber. The Valley is approximately 400 acres in size and is home to some of Red River Gorge's best climbs. Home to routes such as Jesus Wept, Cell Block Six, Bundle of Joy and many others.

Access Issues:

The land is owned by Friends of Muir Valley. Please fill out and submit a waiver before climbing in this area.

Ethic:
  1. You must read and understand the documents .Warnings to Visitors to Muir Valley. and the Kentucky Recreational Use Statute. Your presence in Muir Valley signifies that you agree that you have been adequately warned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve, LLC (MVNP) of hazards that may exist in Muir Valley and that you consider MVNP in full compliance with the provisions of this statute.

  2. You must notify MVNP as soon as reasonably possible of any unusual dangerous condition or hazard in the Valley,of which you may become aware.

  3. To rock climb in Muir Valley, you must first submit and have accepted the Muir Valley Release Form. You must either fill out and submit this form on line at www.muirvalley.com or do so on a temporary paper form, good for three days, available at the kiosk at the main Muir Valley parking lot.

  4. You must be eighteen years of age or older or be accompanied by your parent, your legal guardian, or responsible adult to enter this property. Those minors climbing with a responsible adult, such as a professional rock climbing guide, must have had the Muir Valley Release Form completed and submitted on-line on their behalf by their parent or legal guardian before entering Muir Valley. Climbers under age 18, who can demonstrate a proficiency in rock climbing, will be permitted to climb in Muir Valley on a case-by-case basis and only with special permission of the MVNP.

  5. Persons under the age of eighteen years (minors) must be supervised by their parent, legal guardian, or responsible adult and remain in the presence of that parent or guardian 100% of the time that the minor spends in Muir Valley.

  6. These activities are permitted in Muir Valley: rock climbing, hiking, trail running, and enjoying nature.

  7. These activities are NOT permitted in Muir Valley: sport rappelling, bungee jumping, rope jumping, taking long intentional falls (sometimes referred to as .victory whippers.), mountain biking, shooting firearms, hunting, trapping, camping, campfires, or operating motorized vehicles.

  8. Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in Muir Valley. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in Muir Valley are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that remain close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in Muir Valley.

  9. Do not climb above the anchors or top out on any climb in Muir Valley.

  10. Do not toprope through the anchor chains (or rings). This means do not run your rope from the belayer up and through the anchor hardware and back down to the climber. This produces unnecessary wear on the anchor hardware and may increase risk to you or climbers who use this hardware subsequent to your use of it. Instead, attach quickdraws or carabiners and slings to the anchor system and run your toprope through them.

  11. Unintentional falling is part of responsible rock climbing. Rock climbers are expected to be experienced and skilled in the technique of taking falls, and belayers are expected to be experienced and skilled in safely arresting the falls of the climbers they are belaying.

  12. No rock climbing routes of any kind may be put up in MVNP without the written permission of MVNP. If you wish to put up a climbing route, FIRST contact the owners with your ideas PRIOR to starting the project and they can help you get started. We are keeping a database of route setting projects in the valley. All new routes must have a database ID and be approved buy the owners (or their representatives). This is necessary to prevent overbolting and inappropriate setting of routes. No hardware of any kind may be permanently affixed to any rock in Muir Valley without the written permission of the MVNP.

  13. Please pack out all trash, especially non-biodegradable trash and toilet paper. Please do not throw cigarette butts on the ground. And, thank you for carrying out trash left by others!

  14. Dogs are not allowed in Muir Valley. This includes the parking lot. Leaving your dog tied to your car or, worse yet, shut in your car puts you dog at unreasonable risk of injury or death by overheating.

  15. Harvesting of plants or plant specimens is to be done only with the expressed specific permission of MVNP owners.

  16. Please do not damage trees and vegetation. Stay on existing trails. The Valley has been recently lightly logged. In time, the land cut by the more severe logging trails will be restored to its natural state. New footpaths may be established only with prior approval of the Muir Valley Owners.

  17. Absolutely no digging for and/or removal of relics will be permitted in caves, rock shelters, or anywhere else in Muir Valley.

  18. Please respect our neighbors' property and privacy. Drive slowly on the approach road. Children are often present. Park only on Muir Valley land in areas designated for parking.

  19. Illegal drugs and alcoholic beverages are NOT permitted anywhere in Muir Valley. Period.

1.2.10. Miller Fork Recreational Preserve 198 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.680405, 37.651385

Description:

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre tract of land in Lee County, Kentucky, that the RRGCC closed on in May of 2012 with the help of the Access Fund’s Land Conservation Campaign.

Access Issues:

The RRGCC received grant money from the Access Fund to help make a $45,000 down payment, and has a plan in place to make five yearly mortgage payments of $40,000, after which the RRGCC will own the MFRP, securing climbing access on that land in perpetuity.

Approach:

The Miller Fork parking lot, completed in the summer of 2014 with help from local oil and construction companies, is just before a wide creek on Hell Creek Road. Driving directions from Miguel's is to continue south on KY 11 just past Koop's gas station on the right. Turn left on Shumaker Ridge Rd.and follow for 3.5 miles and you will then as the road continues left you will drive straight down on a gravel road called Hell Creek Rd. Go down the hill all the way until the first intersection and turn right. Follow for another mile until you reach the parking area.

Where To Stay:

Miguel's Campground for climbers. Land of the Arches campground. Lago Lindas campground.

1.2.11. Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve 508 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.723773, 37.657523

Description:

The PMRP is a 700 acre cut of land owned by the RRGCC. The land was purchased from the oil company which still maintains drilling privileges for the area. So please respect the oil companies equipment as well as the roads down there in the area. Please do not black any equipment or any of the roads by over parking in an area.

Access Issues:

Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices. All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners. Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear. Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails. No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted. No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose. Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.

1.2.12. Motherlode Region 189 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.711921, 37.647080

Description:

Some of the best and hardest climbing in the Red River Gorge.

Access Issues:

Area is privately owned and respect should be shown in order to maintain access to the area.

1.2.13. Southern Outlying Cliffs 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -83.758948, 37.686490

1.3. Frankfort 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Youngs Ferry 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Pilot Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Pennyrile State Park 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Greencastle Cliffs 0 routes in Crag

1.8. Dismal Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.8.1. Classic Crack 0 routes in Area

1.9. Cumberland Falls State Park 0 routes in Crag