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Table of contents

1. King's Bluff 176 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -87.322983, 36.501035

Unique Features And Strengths:

Good cooler weather crag as the cliffs get plenty of sun.

Description:

Short to medium height limestone walls displaying a range of limestone characteristics from crimpy sharp edges to rounded pipes. Not the most epic spot, but easy to get to. Routes range from 5.4 to 5.13b.

Access Issues:

King's Bluff is owned and maintained by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition.

Approach:

This crag is actually in Clarksville, TN right above the Cumberland River on the highway 41A bypass, AKA Ashland City Road. The entrance is located near the Max Court culdesac. It is a very short approach from the parking lot to the base of the cliffs. (A few minutes hike). From Max Ct go through the gate. Parking is at the end of the road where you can find the trail left of the bulletin board. 923 Max Ct Clarksville, TN 37043 United States

History:

Emmanuel "Eman" Lacoste published his 3rd Edition of "Little Crimpers, A Rock Climber's Guide To Clarksville, Tennessee. Vertasia: Lexington, KY, September 25, 2013.

1.1. Quiet Zone 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Under The Eye Of The Vulture 5.11c Sport 4
2 White Line Fever 5.11c Sport 5
3 Forged Identity 5.12b Sport 5
4 Elevator Shoes 5.10a Sport 3
5 Easy For Now 5.9 Sport 3
6 Snoop'en and Poop'en 5.8 Sport
7 A Break From The Heat 5.9 Sport
8 Thin And Crispy 5.10b Sport 5
9 Integrity 5.10c Sport
10 Competitve Edge 5.10a Sport
11 Murphy's Law 5.11a Sport
12 Too Good To Be True 5.10b Sport
13 Tight Squeeze 5.10b Sport
14 Brickyard 5.10a Sport
15 * Name In The Guide Book 5.11a Sport 45ft, 5
16 Stone Dagger 5.9 Sport

1.2. The Alley 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chimney Sweep 5.5 Sport
2 Old Fart 5.8 Sport
3 Nine To Five 5.9 Sport
4 Pocket Pool 5.9 Sport
5 Learning to Crawl 5.4 Sport
6 Learning To Walk 5.8 Sport
7 Hammer Time 5.8 Sport
8 Dip In The River 5.5 Sport
9 Thomas The Train 5.6 Sport
10 Bob The Builder 5.7 Sport
11 Independence Day 5.7 Sport
12 Demolition Zone 5.5 Sport
13 Seismic Activity 5.4 Sport
14 Captain Hook 5.7 Sport
15 Blanket Party 5.8 Sport
16 Beam Me Up Scotty 5.8 Sport
17 The Bearded One 5.8 Sport
18 Engineering A Goat Rope 5.7 Sport
19 Luther's Fury / Luther's Climb 5.9 Sport 35ft, 3
20 Scar Face 5.10d Sport
21 Grin-N-Barit 5.10c Sport
22 Cricket Serenade 5.9 Sport
23 Static Cling

Formerly a mixed route but has now been completely bolted.

5.11b Sport 35ft, 4
24 Cataract 5.11a Sport

1.3. Lonesome Wall 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Born Of The Forth Of July 5.9 Sport
2 Happy Hour 5.9 Sport
3 The Process 5.10a Sport
4 * Mustang Sally 5.11b Sport 35ft, 4
5 Baby I'm Ten Inches Long 5.12a Sport
6 Northern Invader 5.12a Sport
7 Too Heavy To Fly 5.12b Sport
8 My Little Secret 5.11a Sport
9 The Straight And The Narrow 5.11a Sport
10 ** Ritz Bitz 5.10c Sport 40ft, 5
11 * Ground Zero 5.12c Sport 35ft, 4
12 ** Three Wishes

Very tricky climb. Super bouldery in the beginning but make sure u climb it when its completely dry or you will keep slippin off

5.13b Sport
13 ** Mortal Wound

Thin overhanging face with powerful moves between bolts 2 and 3. Finishes on same anchors as Prelude To Harvest 5.12a.

5.13a Sport 35ft, 3
14 Prelude To Harvest 5.12a Sport 35ft, 5
15 Community Effort 5.8 Sport
16 Beginner's Luck 5.5 Sport
17 Shorty Doylies 5.8 Sport
18 Sportin' Dylies 5.4 Sport
19 Short And Sporty 5.10c Sport
20 Anchors Away

left leaning flake provides good hands up last three bolts to the crux at the top just before the chains.

5.7 Sport 3
21 Baby Kangaroo 5.8 Sport
22 Mr. Green Jeans 5.8 Sport
23 A Fine New Edition 5.8 Sport

1.4. Main Headwall Area 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 After Lunch 5.9 Unknown
2 Clifford The Big Red Dog 5.8 Unknown
3 whirlwind 5.10c Unknown
4 Keystone 5.5 Unknown
5 The Second Pitch 5.6 Unknown
6 New Drill In Town 5.11a Unknown
7 The Saga Continues 5.9 Unknown
8 Journey Above 5.11c Unknown
9 Helping Hands 5.12a Unknown
10 Leviathon 5.11b Unknown
11 Tarheel Flake 5.10b Unknown
12 Just A Pinch 5.10b Unknown
13 A New Slant 5.10b Unknown
14 No Prescription Needed 5.12a Unknown
15 For Girly Girls Only 5.12b Unknown
16 Green 5.9 Unknown
17 Shave And A Haircut 5.9 Unknown

This is where the approach stairs are located.

1.5. Walt's Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Caged Bowling Ball 5.10c Unknown
2 After The Ball Was Over 5.9 Unknown
3 Just Give Me Three Steps 5.9 Sport 6
4 Joint Venture 5.10c Unknown
5 Striking Out On Your Own 5.10d Unknown
6 You Get Two Tires 5.10b Unknown
7 Born To Freed 5.10a Unknown
8 The Natural 5.7 Unknown
9 Pulsator 5.12a Unknown
10 Delores 5.11c Unknown
11 Hit Sequel 5.9 Unknown
12 Eliminator 5.10c Unknown

1.6. Cake Walk Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 In The Rocking Chair 5.10a Unknown
2 New Purchase 5.7 Unknown
3 Hat Pin With A Sledge Hammer 5.8 Unknown
4 Little Buttons 5.6 Unknown
5 Jurassic Racoon 5.7 Unknown
6 Little Fox 5.6 Unknown
7 Leaping Ladder 5.6 Unknown
8 Skin And Bones 5.10b Unknown
9 Wadjathink 5.8 Unknown
10 Rambo Strikes Back 5.8 Unknown
11 The Sharper Image 5.11b Unknown
12 Here And Now 5.12a Sport 30ft, 3
13 Birthday Boy 5.10a Unknown
14 Cedar Tree Massacre

Crimpy face climbing to dirty pockets at the top.

5.12a Sport 40ft, 4

1.7. Dynamic Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Between Stress And Success 5.10c Unknown
2 Between Chance And Choice 5.10b Unknown
3 Put The Pain Aside 5.11c Unknown
4 Stahlschmidt Warm-Up 5.5 Unknown
5 Singing In The Rain 5.6 Unknown
6 Wired For Sound 5.9 Unknown
7 Another Hard Decision 5.10d Unknown
8 Traveling Through Time 5.10b Unknown
9 When Old Friends Meet 5.10b Unknown

1.8. The Orchard 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Renewal 5.10c Unknown
2 Tennessee Chainsaw Massacre 5.10b Unknown
3 Don't Stop To Smell The Roses 5.10c Unknown
4 Open Book Of Wisdom 5.9 Unknown
5 No Expectations 5.9 Unknown
6 The Dogon Meet A Dancer 5.8 Unknown
7 Plum Tuckered Out 5.11b Unknown
8 Wonders Never Cease 5.8 Unknown
9 Perch Of The Monster 5.8 Unknown
10 Maybe A Little Ether 5.10b Unknown
11 Daddy's Bolt Ladder

Originally bolted to practice aid climbing. Chain Anchors.

5.11a Sport 40ft, 9
12 Stack'em Three Deep 5.10c Unknown
13 * Doyle Parsons Project

Crux on the face just after bolt 3. Fun, well-protected overhanging moves to finish the route

5.11b Sport 40ft, 5
14 Stands To Reason 5.10b Unknown
15 Hard To Quit 5.10b Unknown
16 Barb's Grimace 5.10d Sport 40ft, 4
17 Standing Room Only 5.10d Sport 40ft, 3
18 ** The First Plum

A King's Bluff 'classic.'

5.10b Sport 40ft, 4
19 Just An 'Ol Hole 5.10c Unknown
20 * L.A.G.

Too crimpy and glossy to be called 5.9, but a good route all the same.

5.9 Sport 40ft, 5
21 Reachy 5.8 Unknown
22 Slippery When Wet 5.7 Unknown
23 Ian's Playground 5.6 Unknown
24 Steel Headed Woodpecker 5.7 Unknown
25 Charlotte's Webb 5.7 Unknown
26 Pop Off 5.7 Unknown
27 Poison Ivy 5.8 Unknown
28 Slip Slidin' Away 5.8 Unknown

1.9. High Water Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Knee Knocker 5.11b Unknown
2 Undeterminable Monster 5.12a Unknown
3 Yellow Streak 5.11b Unknown
4 * Drainpipe

3 bolts, consider bringing a sling to wrap around a huge hollow rail as a 4th piece of protection.

5.11a Sport 40ft, 3
5 Heartache 5.10a Unknown
6 Army Ants 5.10b Unknown
7 Bloody Knuckles 5.9 Unknown
8 Lions And Tigers & Bears Oh My 5.9 Unknown

1.10. The Beach 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pretty On Video 5.10b Unknown
2 Almost As Mean As Suzy 5.10b Unknown
3 Civic Action 5.11a Unknown
4 * Big Guns Of Navarone

Vertical Face with cable anchors and crux between bolts 4 and 5.

5.11c Sport 50ft, 5
5 The Nagual 5.12b Unknown
6 Home Improvement 5.11b Unknown

1.11. Politician Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 As The Crows Flies 5.11b Unknown
2 Magnetic Feet 5.11d Unknown
3 Cheese Eater 5.11a Unknown
4 Position And Power 5.11a Unknown

1.12. Horror Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paranoia 5.11a Unknown
2 Four Winds 5.11b Unknown
3 Necrophobia 5.11b Unknown

1.13. Navigator Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shoot The Rapids 5.10b Unknown
2 Any Port In The Storm 5.11b Unknown
3 Rubber Ah Mid-Ship 5.11b Unknown
4 Man Overboard 5.9 Unknown
5 Walk The Plank 5.10d Unknown
6 Cracked By A Bludgeon 5.9 Unknown
7 Crows Nest 5.9 Unknown
8 Keel Hauled 5.11b Unknown
9 Cast Adrift 5.9 Unknown
10 Back Stabber 5.9 Unknown
11 Captain Kangaroo 5.10a Unknown
12 Process Molassas 5.10c Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.4 Learning to Crawl Sport 1.2. The Alley
Seismic Activity Sport 1.2. The Alley
Sportin' Dylies Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
5.5 Chimney Sweep Sport 1.2. The Alley
Demolition Zone Sport 1.2. The Alley
Dip In The River Sport 1.2. The Alley
Beginner's Luck Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Keystone Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Stahlschmidt Warm-Up Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
5.6 Thomas The Train Sport 1.2. The Alley
The Second Pitch Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Leaping Ladder Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Little Buttons Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Little Fox Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Singing In The Rain Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
Ian's Playground Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
5.7 Bob The Builder Sport 1.2. The Alley
Captain Hook Sport 1.2. The Alley
Engineering A Goat Rope Sport 1.2. The Alley
Independence Day Sport 1.2. The Alley
Anchors Away Sport 3 1.3. Lonesome Wall
The Natural Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Jurassic Racoon Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
New Purchase Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Charlotte's Webb Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Pop Off Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Slippery When Wet Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Steel Headed Woodpecker Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
5.8 Snoop'en and Poop'en Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Beam Me Up Scotty Sport 1.2. The Alley
Blanket Party Sport 1.2. The Alley
Hammer Time Sport 1.2. The Alley
Learning To Walk Sport 1.2. The Alley
Old Fart Sport 1.2. The Alley
The Bearded One Sport 1.2. The Alley
A Fine New Edition Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Baby Kangaroo Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Community Effort Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Mr. Green Jeans Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Shorty Doylies Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Clifford The Big Red Dog Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Hat Pin With A Sledge Hammer Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Rambo Strikes Back Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Wadjathink Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Perch Of The Monster Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Poison Ivy Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Reachy Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Slip Slidin' Away Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
The Dogon Meet A Dancer Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Wonders Never Cease Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
5.9 A Break From The Heat Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Easy For Now Sport 3 1.1. Quiet Zone
Stone Dagger Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Cricket Serenade Sport 1.2. The Alley
Luther's Fury Sport 35ft, 3 1.2. The Alley
Nine To Five Sport 1.2. The Alley
Pocket Pool Sport 1.2. The Alley
Born Of The Forth Of July Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Happy Hour Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
After Lunch Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Green Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Shave And A Haircut Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
The Saga Continues Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
After The Ball Was Over Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Hit Sequel Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Just Give Me Three Steps Sport 6 1.5. Walt's Wall
Wired For Sound Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
* L.A.G. Sport 40ft, 5 1.8. The Orchard
No Expectations Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Open Book Of Wisdom Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Bloody Knuckles Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
Lions And Tigers & Bears Oh My Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
Back Stabber Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
Cast Adrift Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
Cracked By A Bludgeon Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
Crows Nest Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
Man Overboard Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
5.10a Brickyard Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Competitve Edge Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Elevator Shoes Sport 3 1.1. Quiet Zone
The Process Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Born To Freed Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Birthday Boy Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
In The Rocking Chair Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Heartache Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
Captain Kangaroo Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
5.10b Thin And Crispy Sport 5 1.1. Quiet Zone
Tight Squeeze Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Too Good To Be True Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
A New Slant Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Just A Pinch Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Tarheel Flake Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
You Get Two Tires Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Skin And Bones Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Between Chance And Choice Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
Traveling Through Time Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
When Old Friends Meet Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
Hard To Quit Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Maybe A Little Ether Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Stands To Reason Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Tennessee Chainsaw Massacre Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
** The First Plum Sport 40ft, 4 1.8. The Orchard
Army Ants Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
Almost As Mean As Suzy Unknown 1.10. The Beach
Pretty On Video Unknown 1.10. The Beach
Shoot The Rapids Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
5.10c Integrity Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
Grin-N-Barit Sport 1.2. The Alley
** Ritz Bitz Sport 40ft, 5 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Short And Sporty Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
whirlwind Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Caged Bowling Ball Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Eliminator Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Joint Venture Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Between Stress And Success Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
Don't Stop To Smell The Roses Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Just An 'Ol Hole Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Stack'em Three Deep Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
The Renewal Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Process Molassas Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
5.10d Scar Face Sport 1.2. The Alley
Striking Out On Your Own Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Another Hard Decision Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
Barb's Grimace Sport 40ft, 4 1.8. The Orchard
Standing Room Only Sport 40ft, 3 1.8. The Orchard
Walk The Plank Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
5.11a Murphy's Law Sport 1.1. Quiet Zone
* Name In The Guide Book Sport 45ft, 5 1.1. Quiet Zone
Cataract Sport 1.2. The Alley
My Little Secret Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
The Straight And The Narrow Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
New Drill In Town Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Daddy's Bolt Ladder Sport 40ft, 9 1.8. The Orchard
* Drainpipe Sport 40ft, 3 1.9. High Water Wall
Civic Action Unknown 1.10. The Beach
Cheese Eater Unknown 1.11. Politician Wall
Position And Power Unknown 1.11. Politician Wall
Paranoia Unknown 1.12. Horror Wall
5.11b Static Cling Sport 35ft, 4 1.2. The Alley
* Mustang Sally Sport 35ft, 4 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Leviathon Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
The Sharper Image Unknown 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
* Doyle Parsons Project Sport 40ft, 5 1.8. The Orchard
Plum Tuckered Out Unknown 1.8. The Orchard
Knee Knocker Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
Yellow Streak Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
Home Improvement Unknown 1.10. The Beach
As The Crows Flies Unknown 1.11. Politician Wall
Four Winds Unknown 1.12. Horror Wall
Necrophobia Unknown 1.12. Horror Wall
Any Port In The Storm Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
Keel Hauled Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
Rubber Ah Mid-Ship Unknown 1.13. Navigator Wall
5.11c Under The Eye Of The Vulture Sport 4 1.1. Quiet Zone
White Line Fever Sport 5 1.1. Quiet Zone
Journey Above Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Delores Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Put The Pain Aside Unknown 1.7. Dynamic Wall
* Big Guns Of Navarone Sport 50ft, 5 1.10. The Beach
5.11d Magnetic Feet Unknown 1.11. Politician Wall
5.12a Baby I'm Ten Inches Long Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Northern Invader Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Prelude To Harvest Sport 35ft, 5 1.3. Lonesome Wall
Helping Hands Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
No Prescription Needed Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
Pulsator Unknown 1.5. Walt's Wall
Cedar Tree Massacre Sport 40ft, 4 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Here And Now Sport 30ft, 3 1.6. Cake Walk Wall
Undeterminable Monster Unknown 1.9. High Water Wall
5.12b Forged Identity Sport 5 1.1. Quiet Zone
Too Heavy To Fly Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall
For Girly Girls Only Unknown 1.4. Main Headwall Area
The Nagual Unknown 1.10. The Beach
5.12c * Ground Zero Sport 35ft, 4 1.3. Lonesome Wall
5.13a ** Mortal Wound Sport 35ft, 3 1.3. Lonesome Wall
5.13b ** Three Wishes Sport 1.3. Lonesome Wall