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Description

Features the majority of the sport routes at Lake Lincoln. Faces South-east.

Approach

Walk due north from the parking lot. First route is pretty much right there.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11a Charlie Don't Surf Sport 30ft, 4

First route on the left side of the North Wall.

FA: Howard Doss

2
5.11c 13 Crack Trad 35ft

Just right of the '13' graffiti. Standard rack with an optional #4 Camalot.

3
5.12a Ramen Noodles Mixed 35ft, 3

Starts same as 13 Crack, but bears right a third of the way up. Route has lost holds, bolts, and anchors. Check this one before attempting.

4
5.13a Dorsal Recumbant Sport 35ft, 4

Check bolts as the crux bolt was removed in the past and may not have been replaced yet (making it very dangerous).

Set by Rich McDade

FA: Howard Doss, David Thoma

FFA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2008

5
5.12a Howard's Route Sport 30ft, 3
6
5.11b Scarlet Bagonias Sport 30ft, 5

Start as 'Hung in the Fence' and then bear left after the first bolt. End's on the same anchors as 'Howard's Route.'

7
5.11b Hung in the Fence Sport 35ft, 5
8
5.10d Gurly Man Trad 35ft

Thin crack to the right of 'Hung in the Fence.' Goes over the roof. No anchors - belay from a tree.

FA: Todd Scarlett, David Thoma

9
5.10a Quest for the Sticky Stuff Sport 35ft, 4
10
5.10 Paco's Taco Sport 30ft, 4

FA: Dan Gabour

11
5.10a Arachnaphobia Sport 30ft, 3
12
5.11c The Forgotten One Sport 30ft, 4

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2008

13
5.5 Moss Crack Trad 30ft

Has a tree growing out of it halfway up. No anchors.

14
5.6 Blowing Crack Trad 30ft

Standard Rack with optional big cams.

15
5.7 Top Hat Trad 35ft

Crack system left of the ledge of 'Oversized Output.'

FA: Shelby Johnson

16
5.11c Oversized Output Trad 35ft

Goes up the face to a ledge just left of the Wasp. Finishes at the top of 'The Wasp.' Rack to #1 Camalot.

FA: Todd Scarlett

17
5.11a The Wasp Sport 35ft, 4

FA: Dan Gabour

18

No anchor. You can traverse to the top of "The Wasp" and lower down via it's anchor. Standard Rack with an optional #4 Camalot.

19
5.10a Castles Made of Sand Trad 40ft

Face just right of Triple Technique. No anchors. Rack to #2 Camalot.

FA: Rob Leinau, 2007

20
5.7 Triple Token Sport 40ft, 4

Bolted face to the right of Triple Technique and Castles Made of Sand.

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2006

21
5.6 Your Mom Sport 35ft

FA: Sunner Donis, 2012

22
5.9 Lincoln It Up Sport 40ft, 3

FA: Shelby Johnson

23
5.10a Smeaglin' It Up Sport 30ft, 3

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2004

24
5.7 5.8 Crack Trad 30ft

Dihedral located behind the tree to the right of 'Smeaglin' It Up.' No anchors.

25
5.8 Wolf Crack Trad 30ft

Wide crack. No anchors. Standard Rack with optional big cams.

26
5.8 Traditional Instincts Trad 35ft

Face climb. No anchors.

27
5.9 Tafoni Trad 35ft

Belay tree on top.

28
5.10c Bad Bolt Mixed 40ft, 1

Thin crack with a single bolt below the roof. Standard rack. Belay off the 'Tafoni' tree.

29
5.11c Ironman Mixed 40ft, 1

Standard Rack. No anchors. Can belay from a tree.

FA: Hans Burger, 1997

30
5.9 Testilce Fortitude Trad 40ft

Crack to the right of Ironman. Rack to #4 Camalot. No anchors.

FA: Shelby Johnson

31
5.10d Crystal Method Sport 25ft, 2

Check anchors as they may be rusted out.

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2006

32
5.9 Access #1 Sport 40ft, 3
33
5.7 Access #2 Trad 35ft