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Description:

This route is a lot of eyebrow climbing fun. One of the classics of looking glass. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

  1. (90', 5.5) Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge.

  2. (100', 5.8) Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance.

  3. (100', 5.8) From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on.

  4. (100', 5.7) Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

Location: From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection: Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts, Bob Gillespie, 1996

Location:  

Located in Nose Area approx:
Long/Lat: -82.795180,35.304507

Route Grade Citations

*** Jakob Kapelj
5.8 Principal
5.8 *** Bryan Hall

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux fun nice fantastic good sweet great classic awesome fall tricky crap

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