- Height: 1600ft
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 8
(5.5/5.6) Easy climbing to get up to the double bolt anchor from the ledge.
Aim for the crack, cams can go into some shallow placements. Fire through the early moves and don't get too pumped - - this is probably the crux of the climb and I'd say it does feel 5.10a - - the crack is super fun and backs off in hardness as you go up - about 50' up trend left onto the face and then up another 40' or so of easier slabby face climbing to get to the belay spot - save some medium wired stoppers and a couple of cams for the gear belay.
You can go right or left but most go (climber's) left. You can protect right below "the move" - this move probably is 5.9 but it does feel hard. Be sure to protect your second so if they fall they don't cheese grater the rope across the rock - this is important. Trend up and right to a great belay spot.
Keep going out to your right to gain the obvious water groove about 40' right of the belay - it's a one step move into the groove (5.7?) and then things get easy. Go up the groove for about 40' and then go right to another good belay spot - - all the hard climbing is now over.
This isn't really a "pitch" but it avoids Southender Gully which is a PITA. - traverse right about a full rope length - don't go up too much - aim for what looks like a totally loose bolder sitting on a ledge (it might be - don't mess with it) go under it to a giant ledge and find two shiny stainless rap anchors (these are roughly on top of Irish Jig and Ruby Tuesday) - - one rappel (2 ropes) gets you on the ground with plenty to spare. If you can't find the aformentioned bolts you can go up and right and eventually hit trees - this is Southender Gully - - a bungle in the jungle for sure but you'll make it down.
- There is no known route history.
Located in Sun Wall approx:
Route Grade Citations
|5.9||Community registered grade|
Overall quality score: 78%
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