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Summary

You can practice a wide variety of moves on routs here and it's warm here in early spring and late fall

Description

Semi-columnar basaltic cliffs

Access issues

Be careful when parking to not block mailbox and to park just off the paved road. There have been issues of this sort with residents.

Approach

Coming in from Santa Fe and Albuquerque follow the main State Highway past most of White Rock to the Southwest end of town. Turn Southeast (left) on Monte Rey South and go 0.7 miles to Portrillo Road. Turn right and go 0.8 miles to Estante Road. Turn right and drive to pullout on right side of road by isolated mailbox and fire hydrant. Follow path that goes to the right from the road. As you go down the path you will see a house above you on a cliff edge. Follow the path until it splits and take the right fork. Go through silver gateposts to a point just past a government property sign. Veer left onto less obvious path to cliffs. Total hiking distance about three-eights of a mile on almost flat ground.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.8 Kor's Dog Trad 35ft

Starts to the left of the Upper Kors right. Follow the left most crack up and left to the anchors. Bouldery start, kind of dull after that.

2
5.8 * Desperate (left top) Unknown 50ft
4
5.10a *** Lower Kor's Top rope 45ft

Hand crack starts in overhanging bulge. Stem between rock and tree a short way until you can get feet. Commonly finish on Gymnast (5.8 double crack conducive to stemming). Some listed grades are sandbagged a little. It's either 5.10a or 5.9+.

FA: Layton Kor

5
5.8 ** The Gymnist Trad 45ft

Shares start with Upper Kors Crack then goes right when you come to twin cracks.

7

Blocky corner climbing for the most part. Set top ropes up above if you don't have any trad gear. Rock is basalt, but is of a kind which takes gear well.

8
5.7 * Cindy's Chimney Trad 50ft

Starts with a crack, ends with some stemming. Fun climb.

9
5.8 ** Chuckwalla Unknown 50ft
10
5.6 Deep Narrow Way Out Unknown 50ft

FA: Jim Olsen

11
12
5.6 ** Porky's Bad Luck Unknown
13
5.7 *** "Worm Hole" Top rope 45ft

Not a recognized route, but works nicely. Starts on or just left of Ardeidae Arete (5.8 *), part way up go left under bulge to Cave route (5.9-5.11c) and continue up through worm hole.

14
5.9 ** Belly Flop Trad 45ft

Starts about 6 feet to the right of Chuckwalla.

15
5.8 ** Belly Up Trad 45ft

Starts about 5 feet right of Belly Flop

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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