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Prison Camp Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Gabe Grayum Joey Friedmann kletterlisa Jonathan Horst Hillary Davis Scott Tucker Kole Alex Wakelin Ian Ethan

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Prison Camp 44 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 32.334194, -110.721137

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Guard Tower

2 Probation 5.6 Trad
3 Parole Direct 5.10d Trad
4 Warden 5.7 Sport 40ft

Dragon Tower

6 Dragon's Butt 5.8 Trad
7 Dragon's Back 5.10a Sport

Cell Blocks

9 Cell Block Six 5.6 Trad
10 Cell Block Nine 5.9 Trad
11 Cell Block Eight 5.8 Trad

Mr. Meanor

13 40 To Life

Low crux to easier but runout upper half.

5.10- Sport 59ft, 5
14 Mr. Meanor

Somewhat awkward. Requires a couple of small cams. I found this the least enjoyable route on the wall.

5.8 Mixed trad 3
15 Safe Cracker

The big crack

5.6 Trad 59ft
16 Off Scott Free

Identified by small dish. 5.9 starts off the block to the left.

5.9 Mixed trad 49ft, 2
17 Off Scott Free (direct) 5.10 Mixed trad 49ft, 2
18 Off Scott Free (right start) 5.10 Mixed trad 49ft, 2
19 Mug Shot

Takes 1 or 2 small cams

5.8 Mixed trad 49ft, 2, 2
20 St. Valentine's Day Massacre

Follows the white band after the 1st bolt.

5.7 Sport 49ft, 5
21 Unfinished sport route 5.9 Unknown
22 Unknown 5.10b Unknown
23 Unknown 5.7 5.7 Unknown

Jailhouse Rock

26 Prison Overcrowding

Starts off the big boulder at the very right end off the wall. It's currently the only route that starts from there. Harder than it looks!

FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard

5.11 Sport 39ft
27 Finger Prince

This is the route furthest right before the big boulder. Same start as 'Jail Break' but pick the right bolt line after the first few moves onto the narrow ledge. Climb straight up after that initial right turn for the full 12b experience - some people move right into 'Prison Overcrowding' but I think that would lower the grade and the fun

FA: John Baker & Joe Schiefman, 2007

5.12 Sport 40ft, 6
28 Jail Break

Towards the right end of the wall, shares start with 'Finger Prince' but trends left from the shallow ledge.

5.12 Sport 130ft, 7
29 Sentenced To Hang 5.12c Sport 50ft, 6
30 Climb Spree 5.11+ Sport
31 Armed Robbery

This is the classic of the wall! Mid-wall, directly to right of the crack of 'Crime and Punishment'.

FA: EFR, BKy & CGh, 1988

5.11c Sport 45ft, 5
32 Armed Robbery (right start) 5.11d Sport
33 Crime and Punishment 5.11c Unknown
34 Just Punishment 5.12 Trad
35 Yard Boss 5.12+ Sport
36 Safecracker

FA: Chris Henze, Cyrena Goodrich & EFR, 1988

5.11b Trad 60ft
37 Solitary Refinement

Starts off the ledge towards the left end off the wall. Good warmup

FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & JSt, 2007

5.10- Sport 40ft
38 Cold Hand Luke 5.8 Trad
39 Grand Theft Otto 5.8 Trad
40 Petty Theft 5.6 Unknown
41 Thief 5.7 Trad

Alcatraz Wall

43 Hoosgal 5.5 Unknown
44 Solitary 5.8 Unknown
45 Scarface 5.7 Unknown
46 Birdman 5.7 Unknown
47 Machinegun 5.7 Unknown

Inner Wall

49 Assault with Battery 5.10+ Sport
50 Unknown .10 5.10a Unknown

Exercise Yard

52 The Exercise Yard 5.10b Unknown 30ft
53 The Exercise Yard, Left 5.10a Sport 30ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.5 Hoosgal Unknown
5.6 Cell Block Six Trad
Petty Theft Unknown
Probation Trad
Safe Cracker Trad 59ft
5.7 Birdman Unknown
Machinegun Unknown
Scarface Unknown
St. Valentine's Day Massacre Sport 49ft, 5
Thief Trad
Unknown 5.7 Unknown
Warden Sport 40ft
5.8 Cell Block Eight Trad
Cold Hand Luke Trad
Dragon's Butt Trad
Grand Theft Otto Trad
Mr. Meanor Mixed trad 3
Mug Shot Mixed trad 49ft, 2, 2
Solitary Unknown
5.9 Cell Block Nine Trad
Off Scott Free Mixed trad 49ft, 2
Unfinished sport route Unknown
5.10- 40 To Life Sport 59ft, 5
Solitary Refinement Sport 40ft
5.10a Dragon's Back Sport
The Exercise Yard, Left Sport 30ft
Unknown .10 Unknown
5.10b The Exercise Yard Unknown 30ft
Unknown Unknown
5.10 Off Scott Free (direct) Mixed trad 49ft, 2
Off Scott Free (right start) Mixed trad 49ft, 2
5.10d Parole Direct Trad
5.10+ Assault with Battery Sport
5.11b Safecracker Trad 60ft
5.11c Armed Robbery Sport 45ft, 5
Crime and Punishment Unknown
5.11 Prison Overcrowding Sport 39ft
5.11d Armed Robbery (right start) Sport
5.11+ Climb Spree Sport
5.12c Sentenced To Hang Sport 50ft, 6
5.12 Finger Prince Sport 40ft, 6
Jail Break Sport 130ft, 7
Just Punishment Trad
5.12+ Yard Boss Sport
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