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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b ** Kidnapped Sport 50ft, 5

First 2 bolts shared with 'Jekyll & Hyde'. Continues left to chain top anchor.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, Eric Berghorn

2
5.10a ** Bear Fingers Mixed 50ft, 2

Diagonal crack leads up and left. Hand-jam through the crux. Rock quality improves halfway up. Chain top anchor shared with 'Kidnapped'. The original route uses the first two bolts of 'Kidnapped'/'Jekyll & Hyde', but it can be led with only traditional protection by sticking to the crack. Pro to 1.5", with the option for larger gear near the bottom.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill?, 1996

3
5.10b R * Jekyll & Hyde Sport 50ft, 4

Runout can be mitigated with an optional 0.5"-0.75" cam. Cold shut top anchor.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, Jim Lundeen, 1996

4
5.10b ** Silverado Squatters Sport 60ft, 5

Start at the base of 'Bear Fingers' and follow jugs over the steepest line up the face. Finish on the short finger crack to cold shut top anchors.

A variation on this route moves right before the finger crack to the last bolt and top anchors of 'Rampage'.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, 2003

5
5.10c ** Rampage Sport 60ft, 7

FFA: Jeff Follett, 1998

6
5.11c ** Beast of Burden Sport 50ft, 5

Face climbing variation of the Beast. Starts left of the hand crack.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, 1996

7

FFA: Jordy Morgan, Karl Guthrie, Joe Schwartz, 1988

8
5.12c ** Jason And The Argonauts Sport 50ft, 4

FFA: Jason Campell, 1990

9
5.12b * Swallow My Pride Sport 50ft, 5

FFA: Jordy Morgan, 1995

10
5.12a *** Kill Uncle / Uncle Tom Sport 50ft, 4

FFA: Jordy Morgan

11
5.12b *** Kill Uncle Direct Start Sport 50ft, 4

Direct start variation of 'Kill Uncle', left of the original start. Stick-clip the first bolt and pull through the crux moves.

12

FFA: Karl Guthrie, Joe Schwartz

13
5.10a R * Mark's Moderate Sport 120ft, 9
  1. Chimney climbing to a 3-bolt anchor at the belay ledge. 4 bolts and 1 piton.

  2. Facing climbing to an overhanging crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. 5 bolts.

Runout on the second pitch can be mitigated with 0.75-2" cams. Watch for loose rock, especially at the top, and wear a helmet.

To descend, either (a) walk off to Crystal Pockets area, or (b) rappel from 'Theodore Roosevelt' to the first belay anchor, then rappel again to the ground.

FFA: Mark Howe, 1997

14

Starts from a 2-bolt anchor left of top anchor for the 1st pitch of 'Mark's Moderate'. Face climbing along pockets up the gray streak to a 2-bolt top anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top, and be mindful of those down below.

FFA: Mark Howe, 1999

15
5.10d ** Black Hole Sun Sport 60ft, 5

Start in a corner, then move up and right with a crux move getting over the bulge.

FFA: Chris Summit, 1998

16
5.11b * Old And In The Way Sport 60ft, 5

Thin face climbing. Crux comes early with a difficult crimps at the first bolt.

FFA: Jordy Morgan

17
5.12a * The Bear's Choice Sport 50ft, 5

FFA: Chris Summit, Jordy Morgan, 1997

18
5.11b * Napa Valley Party Service Sport 60ft, 4

FFA: Jason Campbell

19
5.12a ** Stone Free Sport 60ft, 5

FFA: Jody Morgan?

20
5.10c Kodiak Sport 50ft, 4

Climb along thin seams to chains at the base of 'Bear Arête'.

FFA: Mark Howe

21
5.11d * Smash n' Grab Sport 85ft, 11

FFA: Eric Berghorn

22
5.10a * Bear Crack / The Bear Trad 100ft

Doubles of pro 1"-4"

FFA: Wade Mills, Forest Shute

23
5.11c * Bear Arête Sport 80ft, 7

FFA: Mark Howe

24
5.12a *** Body Snatcher Sport 80ft, 7

FFA: Jerry Dodrill

25
5.11c Polar Bear Spire Sport 65ft, 6

FFA: Mark Howe

26
5.7 PG13 Ursa Major Mixed 75ft, 2

Pro to 5".

FFA: unknown

27

Pro to 3.5"

FFA: unknown

28
5.11b R * Wayne's World Sport 85ft, 9

FFA: Eric Berghorn, 1998

29
5.7 * Bear Cub Crack Trad 60ft

Belay second from tree. Walk off. Pro 2"-4"