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Routes

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Grade Route

First 2 bolts shared with 'Jekyll & Hyde'. Continues left to chain top anchor.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill & Eric Berghorn

Diagonal crack leads up and left. Hand-jam through the crux. Rock quality improves halfway up. Chain top anchor shared with 'Kidnapped'. The original route uses the first two bolts of 'Kidnapped'/'Jekyll & Hyde', but it can be led with only traditional protection by sticking to the crack. Pro to 1.5", with the option for larger gear near the bottom.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill?, 1996

Runout can be mitigated with an optional 0.5"-0.75" cam. Cold shut top anchor.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill & Jim Lundeen, 1996

Start at the base of 'Bear Fingers' and follow jugs over the steepest line up the face. Finish on the short finger crack to cold shut top anchors.

A variation on this route moves right before the finger crack to the last bolt and top anchors of 'Rampage'.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, 2003

FFA: Jeff Follett, 1998

Face climbing variation of the Beast. Starts left of the hand crack.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, 1996

FFA: Jordy Morgan, Karl Guthrie & Joe Schwartz, 1988

FFA: Jason Campell, 1990

FFA: Jordy Morgan, 1995

FFA: Jordy Morgan

Direct start variation of 'Kill Uncle', left of the original start. Stick-clip the first bolt and pull through the crux moves.

FFA: Karl Guthrie & Joe Schwartz

  1. Chimney climbing to a 3-bolt anchor at the belay ledge. 4 bolts and 1 piton.

  2. Facing climbing to an overhanging crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. 5 bolts.

Runout on the second pitch can be mitigated with 0.75-2" cams. Watch for loose rock, especially at the top, and wear a helmet.

To descend, either (a) walk off to Crystal Pockets area, or (b) rappel from 'Theodore Roosevelt' to the first belay anchor, then rappel again to the ground.

FFA: Mark Howe, 1997

Starts from a 2-bolt anchor left of top anchor for the 1st pitch of 'Mark's Moderate'. Face climbing along pockets up the gray streak to a 2-bolt top anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top, and be mindful of those down below.

FFA: Mark Howe, 1999

Start in a corner, then move up and right with a crux move getting over the bulge.

FFA: Chris Summit, 1998

Thin face climbing. Crux comes early with a difficult crimps at the first bolt.

FFA: Jordy Morgan

FFA: Chris Summit & Jordy Morgan, 1997

FFA: Jason Campbell

FFA: Jody Morgan?

Climb along thin seams to chains at the base of 'Bear Arête'.

FFA: Mark Howe

FFA: Eric Berghorn

Doubles of pro 1"-4"

FFA: Wade Mills & Forest Shute

FFA: Mark Howe

FFA: Jerry Dodrill

FFA: Mark Howe

Pro to 5".

FFA: unknown

Pro to 3.5"

FFA: unknown

FFA: Eric Berghorn, 1998

Belay second from tree. Walk off. Pro 2"-4"

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