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Grade Route
5.9 Face Left Top rope 39ft
5.8 * Bubble Slab / Face Centre Sport 39ft, 4

Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt.

Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off.

5.7 Face Right Top rope 39ft
5.5 * Chimney Trad 39ft

No top anchor. Small to medium pro suffices.

5.11a * Solar Power Sport 40ft, 4

Reachy, pocketed face climbing to 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Chris Summit, 1997

5.10d * West Face Sport 50ft, 4

Easier pocketed face climbing leads to crux moves at a hollow-sounding flake atop the arête.

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Mind the poison oak.

Above the top anchor, a second higher set of chains is visible. These chains are appropriate for top-roping the west face; however, lead climbing to the higher anchors is poorly protected and less interesting, therefore also not recommended.

FFA: Jordy Morgan, 1997

5.10d ** The Ladder Sport 70ft, 7

Cruise up the well-protected overhanging parade of huecos to crux moves on sharp 1- and 2-finger pockets that will make you question the published grade. The rest ledge becomes menacing once you move into tenuous climbing on the upper face.

Popular variations move right or left after the 4th bolt to finish on neighboring routes, avoiding the sharp pockets, crux moves, and potential ledge fall.

5.10b ** The Old Ladder / Bubbles Sport 70ft, 6

Perhaps the funnest route at the Bubble, with massive jug-filled huecos yielding a variety of overhanging no-hands rests.

Bolted April 2012. Chain top anchor.

5.11b ** Bubble Boy Sport 70ft, 6

Overhanging huecos and pockets make this a memorable route. Gets it grade from height-dependent crux below the first bolt.

FFA: Jordie Morgan, 1997

5.10c PG13 *** Bubble Boy (var.) Sport 70ft, 5

This popular variation avoids the low crux the regular route. Unfortunately, if you're too short for the regular route, you might also be too short to clip the first bolt from the left. Consider a clip stick, or else be careful if you skip that first bolt.

5.10d ** Unknown 5.10d Top rope 70ft

Start right of the 'Bubble Boy' cave with crux moves up the small overhanging arête. Stay right of 'Bubble Boy', pulling over bulges onto pocketed faces. Finish on the pair of cracks before moving left to the top anchor.

5.10d Unknown 5.10d crack Trad 70ft

Highball start. Pro to 3.5"

5.10a On the Road Top rope 70ft
5.11d PG13 * Catchy Sport 70ft, 8

Pull the low bulge then move up on pocketed slab to the next bulge and the crux. Unless this route has been rebolted, slab sections are runout.

FFA: Jordy Morgan, 1998

5.10d * Right Climb Mixed 70ft, 6

Mixed variation of 'Catchy' that moves right into the chimney instead of over the bulge. Watch for loose rocks in the chimney.


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