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The Bubble, Mt St Helena

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Face 5.9
5.9
Top rope
2 * Bubble Slab

Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt. Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off.

5.8
Sport 60ft , 4
3 Face 5.7
5.7
Top rope
7 ** The Ladder

Cruise up the well-protected overhanging parade of huecos to crux moves on sharp 1- and 2-finger pockets that will make you question the published grade. The rest ledge becomes menacing once you move into tenuous climbing on the upper face. Popular variations move right or left after the 4th bolt to finish on neighboring routes, avoiding the sharp pockets, crux moves, and potential ledge fall.

5.10d
Sport 70ft , 7
8 ** The Old Ladder

Perhaps the funnest route at the Bubble, with massive jug-filled huecos yielding a variety of overhanging no-hands rests. Bolted April 2012. Chain top anchor.

5.10b
Sport 70ft , 6
10 ** Bubble Boy (var.)

This popular variation avoids the low crux the regular route. Unfortunately, if you're too short for the regular route, you might also be too short to clip the first bolt from the left. Consider a clip stick, or else be careful if you skip that first bolt.

5.10c
Sport 70ft , 5
9 * Bubble Boy

Overhanging huecos and pockets make this a memorable route. Gets it grade from height-dependent crux below the first bolt.

5.11b
Sport 70ft , 6
11 * Unknown 5.10d

Start right of the 'Bubble Boy'[18575347] cave with crux moves up the small overhanging arête. Stay right of 'Bubble Boy'[18575347], pulling over bulges onto pocketed faces. Finish on the pair of cracks before moving left to the top anchor.

5.10d
Top rope 70ft
12 Unknown 5.10d crack

Highball start. Pro to 3.5"

5.10d
Trad 70ft
13 On the Road
5.10a
Top rope 70ft
14 * Catchy

Pull the low bulge then move up on pocketed slab to the next bulge and the crux. Unless this route has been rebolted, slab sections are runout.

5.11d
Sport 70ft , 8
15 * Right Climb

Mixed variation of 'Catchy'[18575467] that moves right into the chimney instead of over the bulge. Watch for loose rocks in the chimney.

5.10d
Mixed 70ft , 6

West Face, The Bubble, Mt St Helena

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
2 * Bubble Slab

Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt. Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off.

5.8
Sport 60ft , 4
3 Face 5.7
5.7
Top rope
4 Chimney

Large pro. No top anchor.

5.5
Trad 60ft
5 ** Solar Power

Reachy, pocketed face climbing to 2-bolt top anchor.

5.11a
Sport 40ft , 4
6 * West Face

Easier pocketed face climbing leads to crux moves at a hollow-sounding flake atop the arête. Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Mind the poison oak. Above the top anchor, a second higher set of chains is visible. These chains are appropriate for top-roping the west face; however, lead climbing to the higher anchors is poorly protected and less interesting, therefore also not recommended.

5.10d
Sport 50ft , 4