The Bubble, Mt St Helena

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Face 5.9
5.9 Top rope Unlink route
2 Bubble Slab

Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt. Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off.

5.8 Sport 60ft, 4 Unlink route
3 Face 5.7
5.7 Top rope Unlink route
7 ** The Ladder

Cruise up the well-protected overhanging parade of huecos to crux moves on sharp 1- and 2-finger pockets that will make you question the published grade. The rest ledge becomes menacing once you move into tenuous climbing on the upper face. Popular variations move right or left after the 4th bolt to finish on neighboring routes, avoiding the sharp pockets, crux moves, and potential ledge fall.

5.10d Sport 70ft, 7 Unlink route
8 ** The Old Ladder

Perhaps the funnest route at the Bubble, with massive jug-filled huecos yielding a variety of overhanging no-hands rests. Bolted April 2012. Chain top anchor.

5.10b Sport 70ft, 6 Unlink route
10 ** Bubble Boy (var.)

This popular variation avoids the low crux the regular route. Unfortunately, if you're too short for the regular route, you might also be too short to clip the first bolt from the left. Consider a clip stick, or else be careful if you skip that first bolt.

5.10c Sport 70ft, 5 Unlink route
9 * Bubble Boy

Overhanging huecos and pockets make this a memorable route. Gets it grade from height-dependent crux below the first bolt.

5.11b Sport 70ft, 6 Unlink route
11 * Unknown 5.10d

Start right of the 'Bubble Boy'[18575347] cave with crux moves up the small overhanging arête. Stay right of 'Bubble Boy'[18575347], pulling over bulges onto pocketed faces. Finish on the pair of cracks before moving left to the top anchor.

5.10d Top rope 70ft Unlink route
12 Unknown 5.10d crack

Highball start. Pro to 3.5"

5.10d Trad 70ft Unlink route
13 On the Road
5.10a Top rope 70ft Unlink route
14 * Catchy

Pull the low bulge then move up on pocketed slab to the next bulge and the crux. Unless this route has been rebolted, slab sections are runout.

5.11d Sport 70ft, 8 Unlink route
15 * Right Climb

Mixed variation of 'Catchy'[18575467] that moves right into the chimney instead of over the bulge. Watch for loose rocks in the chimney.

5.10d Mixed 70ft, 6 Unlink route

West Face, The Bubble, Mt St Helena

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
2 Bubble Slab

Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt. Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off.

5.8 Sport 60ft, 4 Unlink route
3 Face 5.7
5.7 Top rope Unlink route
4 Chimney

No top anchor. Small to medium pro suffices.

5.5 Trad 60ft Unlink route
5 ** Solar Power

Reachy, pocketed face climbing to 2-bolt top anchor.

5.11a Sport 40ft, 4 Unlink route
6 * West Face

Easier pocketed face climbing leads to crux moves at a hollow-sounding flake atop the arête. Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Mind the poison oak. Above the top anchor, a second higher set of chains is visible. These chains are appropriate for top-roping the west face; however, lead climbing to the higher anchors is poorly protected and less interesting, therefore also not recommended.

5.10d Sport 50ft, 4 Unlink route