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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10d R * Better Eat Your Wheaties Mixed 50ft, 4

Runout between 1st and 2nd bolt. New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Feelin Your Oats'.

FFA: Ken Stanton, Robin Madgewick, 1991

2
5.9 Chockaholic Trad

Chimney left of 'Saviour Heart'. Wide pro.

FFA: Forest Shute, Wade Mills

3
5.10a R Death to the Right Mixed 50ft, 2

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Step to the Left'.

FFA: Ken Stanton

4
5.10a R * Feelin' Your Oats Sport 50ft, 3

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Better Eat Your Wheaties'.

FFA: Armin Fisher, Robin Madgewick, 1988

5
5.9 * Jardinero Sport 50ft, 3
6
5.10a * Mystery Hole Sport 40ft, 4

Bolted line left of 'Saviour Heart'. First bolt is high but can be protected with gear.

(This is probably the unnamed 3-star 5.9 (#19) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

FFA: Jeff Follet, 1993

7
5.8 * New Tradition Sport 75ft, 6
8
5.9 R * Saviour Heart Sport 60ft, 3

Runout can be mitigated with some larger cams.

FFA: Ken Stanton, Robin Madgewick, 1990

9
5.6 Squeeze Chimney Mixed 60ft, 2

Climb the chimney left of 'Shute-Mills' and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'New Tradition'. Highball start. Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

10
5.9 ** Shute-Mills Route Sport 60ft, 5

The first bolt is high and above the crux, which can be optionally protected with a small cam. 3-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Forrest Shute, Wade Mills

11
5.8 * Something Good Sport 50ft, 4

Starts on blunt arĂȘte left of 'Step to the Left'. One pin and 3 bolts.

12
5.8 R * Step to the Left Mixed 60ft, 2

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Death to the Right'.

FFA: Armin Fisher, Robin Madgewick, 1988

13
5.9 * The Pile Trad 75ft

Climb the pillar, then link up with 'New Tradition' or 'Shute-Mills'. Blocks on the pillar may not be very stable. Pro to 2".

FFA: Robin Madgewick, Ken Stanton, 1990

14
5.10a R * Seymour Frishberg Sport 70ft, 3

Runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Can be mitigated with 0.75"-1.5" cams. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Boneless Chicken Ranch'.

FFA: Robin Madgewick, Ken Stanton, 1990

15
5.11b ** Boneless Chicken Ranch Sport 60ft, 4

Runout near the top can be mitigated with pro. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Seymour Frishberg'.

FFA: Robin Madgewick, Ken Stanton

16
5.9 * Bushy Crack Trad 50ft

Crack between 'Something Good' and 'Step to the Left'. Highball start. Pro to 2".

17
5.10a * Cereal Killer Sport 75ft, 4

2-bolt top anchor on a ledge with rap rings.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, Chris Summit, 2010

18
5.5 Initiation Rite Trad 50ft

Starts as a second pitch above 'Shute-Mills'. 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Chief' and 'War Party'. Pro: large cams for the crack.