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Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Better Eat Your Wheaties

Runout between 1st and 2nd bolt. New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Feelin Your Oats'.

FFA: Ken Stanton, Robin Madgewick, 1991

5.10d R
Mixed 50ft , 4
2 Chockaholic

Chimney left of 'Saviour Heart'. Wide pro.

FFA: Forest Shute, Wade Mills,

5.9
Trad
3 Death to the Right

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Step to the Left'.

FFA: Ken Stanton,

5.10a R
Mixed 50ft , 2
4 * Feelin' Your Oats

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Better Eat Your Wheaties'.

FFA: Armin Fisher, Robin Madgewick, 1988

5.10a R
Sport 50ft , 3
5 * Jardinero
5.9
Sport 50ft , 3
6 * Mystery Hole

Bolted line left of 'Saviour Heart'. First bolt is high but can be protected with gear.

(This is probably the unnamed 3-star 5.9 (#19) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

FFA: Jeff Follet, 1993

5.10a
Sport 40ft , 4
7 * New Tradition
5.8
Sport 75ft , 6
8 * Saviour Heart

Runout can be mitigated with some larger cams.

FFA: Ken Stanton, Robin Madgewick, 1990

5.9 R
Sport 60ft , 3
9 Squeeze Chimney

Climb the chimney left of 'Shute-Mills' and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'New Tradition'. Highball start. Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown,

5.6
Mixed 60ft , 2
10 ** Shute-Mills Route

The first bolt is high and above the crux, which can be optionally protected with a small cam. 3-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Forrest Shute, Wade Mills,

5.9
Sport 60ft , 5
11 * Something Good

Starts on blunt arête left of 'Step to the Left'. One pin and 3 bolts.

5.8
Sport 50ft , 4
12 * Step to the Left

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Death to the Right'.

FFA: Armin Fisher, Robin Madgewick, 1988

5.8 R
Mixed 60ft , 2
13 * The Pile

Climb the pillar, then link up with 'New Tradition' or 'Shute-Mills'. Blocks on the pillar may not be very stable. Pro to 2".

FFA: Robin Madgewick, Ken Stanton, 1990

5.9
Trad 75ft
14 * Seymour Frishberg

Runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Can be mitigated with 0.75"-1.5" cams. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Boneless Chicken Ranch'.

FFA: Robin Madgewick, Ken Stanton, 1990

5.10a R
Sport 70ft , 3
15 ** Boneless Chicken Ranch

Runout near the top can be mitigated with pro. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Seymour Frishberg'.

FFA: Robin Madgewick, Ken Stanton,

5.11b
Sport 60ft , 4
16 * Bushy Crack

Crack between 'Something Good' and 'Step to the Left'. Highball start. Pro to 2".

5.9
Trad 50ft
17 * Cereal Killer

2-bolt top anchor on a ledge with rap rings.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill, Chris Summit, 2010

5.10a
Sport 75ft , 4
18 Initiation Rite

Starts as a second pitch above 'Shute-Mills'. 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Chief' and 'War Party'. Pro: large cams for the crack.

5.5
Trad 50ft