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Access issues inherited from Boy Scout Rocks

State park. $10 fee.

Approach

The top of upper tier lays adjacent to the east side of the road. Access by simply walking down the road from parking at rock city until you see it on your left. Either rap down your top rope of hike/ scramble down the south side of the cliff.

Access is also possible from middle or lower tier by hiking up the north side of the rocks. You will see the obvious path up. Lower tier and the west face of middle tier share the same starting area

Ethic inherited from Boy Scout Rocks

Use long slings and ropes to ensure your top rope extends over the lip of your route. No more rope groves are needed! Don't climb a few days after rain due to the fact that you will break holds when the rock is wet and be sure to climb softly as some holds are delicate!

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11c * Pie Crust Top rope

Located on the far right side of the face, this route starts at the dead log and climbs up to the crack/layback flake. The crux is getting off the ground. Follow the crack to just below the top. There is a blank section of rock prior to topping out. While the crack is solid, I havn't seen any of the bolts that are supposed to exist so I give it an R rating if you wanted to lead it. This route sees a lot of shade and seems to be rarely climbed due to the tough start.

Protection

Cams .75"-3" Long 20+ ft slings for toprope.

3
5.11 Face 1 Unknown
4
5.12 Face 2 Unknown
5
5.10a * Chouinard's Face Top rope 80ft

This climb has two variations, both start using Chouinard's Crack and move on to the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9).

The 5.10a version beginning on the jugs starting just right of the tree and ascending up to the ledge/cave.

The 5.11a variation starts just after the crux move of the crack about 15' up and moves our right and then up on balancy face climbing that will get easier as you climb until you run out of holds and have a brief stretch of slab before reaching a ledge/shallow "cave" where your top rope should hang.

Protection

Far atop the upper tier, there is a medium sized tree near the center of the cliff, set your toprope from this. You'll need about 40' of webbing to keep rope drag to a minimun.

6
5.9 * Chouinard's Crack Unknown
7
5.10c ** Pebbly Face Top rope 200ft

Steep slab route with some fairly technical moves and some tiny hand holds. Starts left of Chouinards Crack with a few different starts. Look for tiny features for your hands and trust your feet.

To reach the anchors, climb the 3rd/4th class slab with to the left of pebbly face. There are scattered bolts without hangers (bring your own if you want to use them) or climb a bit higher and use the trees and about 40'/50' of webbing/rope.