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Access issues inherited from Boy Scout Rocks

State park. $10 fee.

Approach

Best to approach from the trail that leads south from the bathroom east of the road at rock city. Follow the trail that wanders down into a creek drainage for about 10 min until you see lower tier in front and to the right of you about 25 feet from the main trail.

Access to the top for all routes except ozone is from the right (north) side trail up the hill. Pass a chimney and use the first well worn ramp up to the top. Scramble under a large boulder that makes a small tunnel to the top of the cliff and look for bolts and chains.

To access the top of ozone, follow the cliff face south until you can make it up a steep ramp to the top of the south side of the cliff. You will see a small cave. To the right of that is the cliff face with two bolts.

Ethic inherited from Boy Scout Rocks

Use long slings and ropes to ensure your top rope extends over the lip of your route. No more rope groves are needed! Don't climb a few days after rain due to the fact that you will break holds when the rock is wet and be sure to climb softly as some holds are delicate!

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
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5.11c ** Bolt Route Sport 75ft, 12

Located to the right of Amazing Face following the bolt ladder to a two bolt anchor with chains. The start is the crux and often an old bolt hole is used although not necessary. Look carefully to find holds. Gets a bit easier higher up until you reach the last bolt with a tough move or two to gain the anchor chains. Be careful of a flake that seems loose right below the chains. Great technical face climbing.

Protection 12 quickdraws for lead (watch out for loose bolt up high, number 10 I think), or rap down from amazing face anchors to chains for top rope.

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5.10a ** Amazing Face Sport 80ft, 10

The most popular route here and most likely the one you will find people on. Starts at the main "cave" in the middle of lower tier and follows the left side of the bolts (which are all solid.) The right side of the bolts offers a slightly harder variation. Fine technical face climbing with good edges everywhere. Easily top roped with 2 bolt anchor on top.

Protection Quickdraws for leading, 15 - 20' sling to extend top rope over edge.

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5.7 * The Chimney Unknown
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5.10d Too Short Unknown
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5.11d * Long Face Unknown
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5.11c * Dinosaur Unknown
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5.11d R * Face Unknown
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5.10b ** The Diagonal Unknown
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5.10c * Stegasaurus Unknown
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5.11d X * Godzilla Unknown
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5.11a ** Ozone Direct Unknown 50ft
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5.10c *** Ozone Unknown