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Description

The first and most extensive of the 4 features on the East Peak of Mt Tamalpais. Bring lots of long slings, or better yet a second rope, for slinging blocks for an anchor. A small rack may also be useful - there are a few options for wires and cams.

Approach

From the carpark head up the boardwalk towards the summit, until you hit the first switchback (there are some prominent rocks here). The Northern Formation is located about 20m down from here, with access to the bottom to the right (facing out).

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.5 * Sun Slab Left Top rope 30ft

The left most line on the feature. Hard to top-rope from the same anchors as the other routes.

2
5.7 * Sun Slab Undercling Unknown 40ft

Up to the obvious overhanging block. Undercling right to join Sun Slab Center.

3
5.10b * Sun Slab Center Top rope 40ft

Up the blank bulgy wall between Sun Slab Undercling and Equinox. Harder & better if you avoid the large cracked hold to the left.

4
5.12 Blankness Top rope 40ft

Reportedly there's a hard squeeze job between Sun Slab Center and Equinox, but it looks pretty blank.

5
5.10a ** Equinox Top rope 40ft

The obvious crack.

6
5.10b * The Prow Top rope 40ft

A squeeze job up the steep prow 1' right of Equinox.

7
5.6 Grovel Groove Top rope 40ft

The groove / gully right of Equinox.

8
5.6 ** East Ridge Unknown 55ft

The prominent arete separating the South and East faces. Better if you stay just on the right hand side.

9
5.6 * East Face Left Top rope 40ft

The featured slab left of the crack.

10
5.6 * East Face Center Top rope 40ft

The crack in the middle of the East Face.

11
5.8 East Face Right Top rope 35ft

Over the bulgy block right of the crack on East Face Center.