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Table of contents

1. Mount Tamalpais 69 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder, Top Rope and Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.594825, 37.921678

Description:

The prominent peak (2500' / 780m ASL) just across the Golden Gate in Marin County. Offers a small but pleasant variety of climbing and bouldering on a smattering of different rock types. The 'Summit Crags' are well worth visiting for the view - on a clear winter or spring day you can see the Sierras, 200 miles to the East.

1.1. Bootjack / Ravine Boulders 0 routes in Unknown

1.2. Rock Spring Boulders 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.607891, 37.915462

Description:

A dispersed collection of serpentine boulders on the Western and Southern slopes of Mt Tam.

1.2.1. The Molar 0 routes in Boulder

1.2.2. Roadside Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: -122.608736, 37.914714

Description:

A 40 foot high lump of crumbly serpentine right beside the road. Doesn't look like much from the road side, but the other side is steep and tall. May be worth bringing top roping gear if you're at all nervous about highballs, although there aren't a lot of options for an anchor (at one time there was a bolt on top, but all that's left is a rusty empty sleeve).

Landings are mostly excellent (flat gravel).

Approach:

About a third of a mile up from the Rock Spring carpark is a white gate with a sign on it reading "Road Closed - Hazardous Road Conditions". The large parking lot for the boulder is immediately before this gate, on the right, and the boulder is blatantly obvious to the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Camel Pie Traverse

Left to right.

V7 Boulder 60ft
2 * Left Side

Start 10ft left of the base of the crack, at some low flat holds.

V2 Boulder 40ft
3 * Pocket Problem

Start at the large undercling pocket at head height, about 4ft left of the base of the crack. Straight up through the obvious second undercling pocket.

Graded V2 in guidebooks, but that seems a bit sandbagged.

V2 Boulder 40ft
4 * Camel Toe

Start at the base of the crack, then blast straight up over the bulge.

V4 Boulder 40ft
5 * Camel High

Start at the two obvious head-height jug pockets, and follow the easiest line to the top.

V1 Boulder 40ft
6 * Right Side

Start just right of the right hand pocket on 'Camel High', using a large high left facing sidepull to get going.

V1 Boulder 40ft
7 Right Again

Seems like there'd be another V4-ish line just right again, going over the next bulge.

Boulder 40ft
8 Right Once More

Between 'Right Again' and 'Right Arete'.

V1 Boulder 35ft
9 Right Arete VB Boulder 30ft

1.2.3. Bayview Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: -122.605526, 37.919372

Description:

A steep but limited boulder with a handful of mostly hard problems. Sloping landings mean you should probably have a spotter.

Approach:

The parking for this, and the 'Eastern Bloc' are about 3/4 of a mile after the Rock Spring parking lot, at a narrow 2-car pullout on the right, just after a large metal drainage pipe.

This parking lot is on top of the 'Bayview Boulder'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Left

Sit start. Stand start is V6.

V8 Boulder 20ft
2 * Scenic Cruise

Sit start then up the ramp / corner. Hard at the top.

V3 Boulder 20ft
3 * Liechen Detector

Start as for 'Scenic Cruise'.

V5 Boulder 18ft
4 * Truth Serum

Sit start.

V5 Boulder 15ft

1.2.4. Eastern Bloc 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: -122.606343, 37.919298

Description:

An impressive, featured, steep wall with the potential for a lot of variants on the problems described here.

Landings are quite sloping, so extra pads (to build up the landing zone) and spotters are recommended.

Approach:

Park as for the 'Bayview Boulder', then walk back down the road about 50m to pick up an obvious trail on the other side of the road. The boulder is obvious, about 50m off the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Centre Route V4 Boulder 12ft
2 * Limb Burger

Sit start.

V4 Boulder 12ft
3 * Warm Up Crack

Sit start.

V2 Boulder 15ft
4 * 38 Special

Sit start on the sidepull, then up and slightly left.

V5 Boulder 15ft
5 * Snake Charmer

Start as for '38 Special', but move up and right.

V5 Boulder 15ft
6 ** Target Practice

Start on the rail then traverse up and right. Finish on a jug on the lip.

V4 Boulder 15ft
7 ** ATF Traverse

Left to right traverse.

V6 Boulder 45ft

1.3. Lakeview Crags 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.589385, 37.928231

1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders 24 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.590299, 37.928725

Description:

A neat cluster of boulders hidden in amongst a lovely forest.

Approach:

From the Lakeview Parking Lot, take the Lakeview Trail (which exits the lot from the right hand / Eastern end). Follow the trail gently uphill, ignoring the trails heading downhill, for about 10 minutes, until you see the 'Trailside Boulder'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Trailside Boulder

The clean cut boulder right beside the trail.

1 Trailside Traverse

Traverse right to left.

V3 Boulder 30ft
2 Trailside Sit Start

Starts near the end of the 'Trailside Traverse'.

V5 Boulder 8ft

Corridor Boulder

The boulder on the right side, downhill from the 'Trailside Boulder'.

3 Hi Ho Silver

Traverse the Corridor boulder uphill.

V3 Boulder 30ft
4 The Old Man Card

V6 variant traverses below the lip.

V2 Boulder 8ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Cairn

The projecting boulder on the left side, opposite the 'Corridor Boulder'.

5 ** Campus Girlz V8 Boulder 10ft
6 Kitty Hawk V5 Boulder 12ft
7 Bush Pilot

Start as for 'Kitty Hawk', but move right.

V5 Boulder 12ft
8 High Heeled Hookers

Traverse left to right.

V2 Boulder 10ft
9 * Girl Power

Sit start problem on the back of the boulder.

V6 Boulder 8ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Building Block

The lower of two boulders visible through the trees off to the left (facing out) of 'The Cairn'.

10 ** The Best Damn

Vague left arete.

V1 Boulder 20ft
11 The Devil Wears Prana

Start as for 'The Best Damn', but move left.

V4 Boulder 20ft
12 * Contact High

Centre of face. Take care with a loose hold up high.

V1 Boulder 20ft
13 * Eraser Arete

Right arete.

V2 Boulder 20ft

Lakeview Slab

A large 35ft high slab in the middle of the boulder field, with fantastic views to the north.

14 * Lakeview Slab Left 5.10a Top rope 35ft
15 * Lakeview Slab Centre 5.10d Top rope 35ft
16 * Lakeview Slab Right 5.9 Top rope 35ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Big Hunk

A prominent boulder downhill and right of the 'Lakeview Slab'.

17 * Hunger Strike V8 Boulder 20ft
18 * EC Does It

Vague arete left of 'Hunger Strike'.

V1 Boulder 20ft
19 * Arete 5.10a Top rope 30ft
20 * Slab Right V3 Boulder 25ft
21 * Centre Slab V4 Boulder 20ft
22 * Left Slab V2 Boulder 15ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Pee Wee's Playhouse

A small cave under a boulder to the left of 'Big Hunk'.

23 * The Little Adventure V7 Boulder 10ft
24 * Adult Entertainment V7 Boulder 10ft

1.3.2. Spirits Wall 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -122.587851, 37.927245

Description:

A cool boulder with an inspiring featured cave on its downhill side. Some opportunity for hard new problems & variants.

Approach:

From the 'Lakeview Boulders' continue for 50ft until you reach a dirt service road. Follow this right (uphill) around a switchback until you reach the top (ignore a turn off to a green Star Wars dome on the left).

At the top where the buildings are, turn hard left and walk behind the green building - the top of the boulder is obvious once behind the building, facing the East Peak of Mt Tamalpais.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Absynthe V3 Boulder 25ft
2 Beam Me Up V5 Boulder 25ft
3 Two Buck Chuck

Sit start.

V5 Boulder 30ft
4 ** High Spirits

Low start.

V7 Boulder 30ft
5 Cocktail

Start as for 'High Spirits', but traverse right.

V5 Boulder 15ft

1.4. East Peak Crags 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -122.577248, 37.928615

Description:

A cluster of small crags offering a day's mid-range top-roping in a spectacular setting.

Approach:

Drive up to the top of Mt Tamalpais' East Peak and park in the large lot at the end ($8 per day, as of mid 2014). The formations are all located on the far (eastern) side of the peak, and are best accessed from the summit.

1.4.1. Northern Formation 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Top Rope

Long/Lat: -122.577040, 37.929108

Description:

The first and most extensive of the 4 features on the East Peak of Mt Tamalpais. Bring lots of long slings, or better yet a second rope, for slinging blocks for an anchor. A small rack may also be useful - there are a few options for wires and cams.

Approach:

From the carpark head up the boardwalk towards the summit, until you hit the first switchback (there are some prominent rocks here). The Northern Formation is located about 20m down from here, with access to the bottom to the right (facing out).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

South Face

1 * Sun Slab Left

The left most line on the feature. Hard to top-rope from the same anchors as the other routes.

5.5 Top rope 30ft
2 * Sun Slab Undercling

Up to the obvious overhanging block. Undercling right to join Sun Slab Center.

5.7 Unknown 40ft
3 * Sun Slab Center

Up the blank bulgy wall between Sun Slab Undercling and Equinox. Harder & better if you avoid the large cracked hold to the left.

5.10b Top rope 40ft
4 Blankness

Reportedly there's a hard squeeze job between Sun Slab Center and Equinox, but it looks pretty blank.

5.12 Top rope 40ft
5 ** Equinox

The obvious crack.

5.10a Top rope 40ft
6 * The Prow

A squeeze job up the steep prow 1' right of Equinox.

5.10b Top rope 40ft
7 Grovel Groove

The groove / gully right of Equinox.

5.6 Top rope 40ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

East Face

8 ** East Ridge

The prominent arete separating the South and East faces. Better if you stay just on the right hand side.

5.6 Unknown 55ft
9 * East Face Left

The featured slab left of the crack.

5.6 Top rope 40ft
10 * East Face Center

The crack in the middle of the East Face.

5.6 Top rope 40ft
11 East Face Right

Over the bulgy block right of the crack on East Face Center.

5.8 Top rope 35ft

1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.577359, 37.928360

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Oberman's Crack 5.11b Unknown
2 * Face 5.11b Unknown
3 * Face 1 5.5 Unknown
4 *** Face 2 5.10b Unknown
5 ** Arete 5.8 Unknown
6 * Old Bolt Line 5.11a Unknown
7 * Face 3 5.5 Unknown
8 Face 4 5.3 Unknown

1.4.3. Southern Formation 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -122.577364, 37.928141

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Crack to Face 5.7 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB Right Arete Boulder 30ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
5.3 Face 4 Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
5.5 * Sun Slab Left Top rope 30ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
* Face 1 Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
* Face 3 Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
5.6 * East Face Center Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
* East Face Left Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
** East Ridge Unknown 55ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
Grovel Groove Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
5.7 * Sun Slab Undercling Unknown 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
** Crack to Face Unknown 1.4.3. Southern Formation
5.8 East Face Right Top rope 35ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
** Arete Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
5.9 * Lakeview Slab Right Top rope 35ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
5.10a * Arete Top rope 30ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
* Lakeview Slab Left Top rope 35ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
** Equinox Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
5.10b * Sun Slab Center Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
* The Prow Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
*** Face 2 Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
V1 * Camel High Boulder 40ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
Right Once More Boulder 35ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
* Right Side Boulder 40ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
* Contact High Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
* EC Does It Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
** The Best Damn Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
5.10d * Lakeview Slab Centre Top rope 35ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
V2 * Left Side Boulder 40ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
* Pocket Problem Boulder 40ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
* Warm Up Crack Boulder 15ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
* Eraser Arete Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
High Heeled Hookers Boulder 10ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
* Left Slab Boulder 15ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
The Old Man Card Boulder 8ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
5.11a * Old Bolt Line Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
5.11b * Face Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
** Oberman's Crack Unknown 1.4.2. Oberman's Rock / Leaning Tower
V3 * Scenic Cruise Boulder 20ft 1.2.3. Bayview Boulder
Hi Ho Silver Boulder 30ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
* Slab Right Boulder 25ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
Trailside Traverse Boulder 30ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
** Absynthe Boulder 25ft 1.3.2. Spirits Wall
V4 * Camel Toe Boulder 40ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
* Centre Route Boulder 12ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
* Limb Burger Boulder 12ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
** Target Practice Boulder 15ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
* Centre Slab Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
The Devil Wears Prana Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
V5 * Liechen Detector Boulder 18ft 1.2.3. Bayview Boulder
* Truth Serum Boulder 15ft 1.2.3. Bayview Boulder
* 38 Special Boulder 15ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
* Snake Charmer Boulder 15ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
Bush Pilot Boulder 12ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
Kitty Hawk Boulder 12ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
Trailside Sit Start Boulder 8ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
Beam Me Up Boulder 25ft 1.3.2. Spirits Wall
Cocktail Boulder 15ft 1.3.2. Spirits Wall
Two Buck Chuck Boulder 30ft 1.3.2. Spirits Wall
5.12 Blankness Top rope 40ft 1.4.1. Northern Formation
V6 ** ATF Traverse Boulder 45ft 1.2.4. Eastern Bloc
* Girl Power Boulder 8ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
V7 ** Camel Pie Traverse Boulder 60ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder
* Adult Entertainment Boulder 10ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
* The Little Adventure Boulder 10ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
** High Spirits Boulder 30ft 1.3.2. Spirits Wall
V8 * Left Boulder 20ft 1.2.3. Bayview Boulder
** Campus Girlz Boulder 10ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
* Hunger Strike Boulder 20ft 1.3.1. Lakeview Boulders
? Right Again Boulder 40ft 1.2.2. Roadside Boulder