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Routes are described right to left.


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Grade Route
V0 * Small Wall Left Boulder 13ft

Start: Just right of Rat Hole. Go: Climb straight up the left side fo the small face, starting on the broken bulge and on to the thin face holds and the top.

V0- * Rat Hole Boulder 13ft

Start: At the obvious narrow chimney that splits the right side of the east face. Go: Squirm up the grungy chimney to the top. It is more difficult, but more pleasant to stay out of the crack and layback the large left flake. (5.6)

V0- Easy Overhang Boulder 13ft

Start: Just right of The Horn, at a tiny alcove with "V" shaped flakes beneath a bulging overhang. Go: Up into the alcove and then crank up and over the overhang via a wonderful assortment of holds and classic moves.

V0- * The Horn Boulder 13ft

Start: Just right of the Ratraverse bulge, underneath the obvious right-pointing horn. Go: Climb up to the horn and then over to the top.

V2 * Death by Dizzy Boulder 13ft

Start: At large holds near the middle of the Small Wall right of the obvious chimney. Go: Traverse left staying low, past Rat Hole and past large flakes beneath Easy Overhang. Continue left until the left hand reaches the low bulge start of Ratraverse. Then power straight up to the holds just left of The Horn. Move left into the big flake and continue to the rail. Traverse the long rail to the small right-facing corner at its end. Continue moving left (crux, bad landing) and traverse into the small boulder-filled gully, using small holds found just below or at the lip of the wall. Traverse until one is forced to climb up and out.

V2 ** Mother's Milk Boulder 13ft

Start: Same as Ratraverse and Bottom Line. Go: Up and slightly right to face holds along a right leaning crack line. Move up to the breast-shaped bulge and the twin sloped finger shelfs. Find a hidden, shallow dished out hold just above and between these holds and continue to a crack. Pull over the top and breath easier.

V3 * Tweaky Traverse Boulder 13ft
V1 *** Flake Route Boulder 13ft

Start: At the tallest, steepest section of the eastern face, find an obvious, large right-facing flake that archs up right. Go: Move up the flake until you can reach out left and gain the long hand rail. Move left and down along the rail until decent holds allow you to climb straight up. (Traditionally done with a heel hook.)

V5 Test Piece Boulder 13ft

Start: On small, crystal holds immediately to the left of The Flake. Go: Crimp up a vertical line of small face holds to a shallow, thin horizontal crack (requires left hand on the "tooth" hold) then straight up from there (avoiding the rail) to a hold where the rail ends. Mantle directly onto the upper slab section via a small two-finger crystal.

V4 Rat Patrol Boulder 13ft

Start: Immediately left of Testpiece on low crystal holds. Go: Straight up, using two of the small face holds on the lower part of Testpiece for the right hand. Left hand on a small right-facing sidepull, right hand on the "tooth" hold, make the big move to the rail. Finish directly finding a good hold in the large crystally rock above.

V3 * Tweaky Shit Boulder 13ft

Start: Immediately left of Rat Patrol. 2-3 feet left of The Flake. The left-hand gaston on the sidepull of Rat Patrol becomes a straight on right-hand sidepull on this problem. Go: Crank up on the tweaky opposing sidepulls and grab the horizontal rail above. Continue to top.

V5 Unworthy Boulder 13ft
V8 The Yuki Problem Boulder 13ft

Start: Same as Ratraverse -- on the small hand holds found on the low bulge right of the large flake. Go: Move left to the flake and stay low, traversing along the small face holds at the bottom of Testpiece and Rat Patrol. Continue to a left-slanting, larger hold. Move left onto very thin holds and then straight up avoiding the rail (using dished out holds just beneath its edge) and reach the top statically via tiny holds. V8

V2 Butter Boulder 13ft


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