Region Guide for New York

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. New York 2,318 routes in Region

3412

1 Shawangunks, 2 New York City, 3 Adirondacks, 4 Little Falls

seasonality

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -75.521893, 42.879390

1.1. Shawangunks 1,706 routes in Crag

1

1 The Trapps

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.316808, 41.624977

1.1.1. The Trapps 953 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.180876, 41.746009

1.1.2. The Near Trapps 219 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.1.3. Millbrook Mountain 105 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.1.4. Sky Top 347 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.1.5. Lost City 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.6. Bonticou 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.7. New Paltz 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.8. Hemlock Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.9. Peterskill 64 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Boulder and Top Rope

1.2. New York City 95 routes in Crag

5

5 Fort Tryon Park

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -73.981569, 40.748948

1.2.1. Central Park 68 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

1.2.2. Central Park West Outcrops 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.2.3. Mannor Park 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.2.4. New Roc City 0 routes in Area

1.2.5. Fort Tryon Park 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -73.933202, 40.862777

1.3. Adirondacks 353 routes in Crag

81

1 Beer Walls, 8 Cascade Pass

Summary:

?,Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.381490, 43.911773

1.3.1. Beer Walls 101 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -73.757615, 44.144176

Unique Features And Strengths:

A good variety of (mostly) single-pitch routes with a short, generally easy, approach. And, many routes have cliff-top access for easy top-roping.

Description:

A small crag in itself, with some 100 routes. This is a set of walls on the south side of NY 73 as it goes through Chapel Pond pass, about 1/2 a mile west of the Chapel Pond pull out. Unlike many of the walls in the pass, these (mostly) face away from the road, over a ridge, and tend to be far more isolated from road noise.

Access Issues:

On Adirondack state park land, and follows those (really quite generous) access rules.

Approach:

Depends on the exact wall, but generally park at the pull-off about 1/2 mile west of the Chapel Pond (park labelled) pullout, then walk a bit farther west to the obvious log bridge and trail. Then follow the trail (through various branchings to different cliffs) generally up and over the ridge to the cliffs.

10-15 minutes and generally easy going.

1.3.2. Roger's Rock 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.3. Avalanche Pass 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Ice,?

1.3.4. Poke-O-Moonshine 142 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of good, longish, routes with easy approaches.

Description:

Poke-O Moonshine is a mountain in the north-east of the Adirondack park. It has a number of cliffs on it, though the main climbing is on the east face of the mountain, the (up to) 400' "Main Face", the south face is less steep, with the 500' Poke-O Moonshine Slab. There are various other cliffs above the main face, and upwards towards the peak.

Access Issues:

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. For this, park at the campground, pay the fee ($1.00 as of 2007) and follow the trails from there.

Approach:

10-25 minutes, generally easy.

Usually park at the campground and take the trails from there, but the slab would be approached from farther south on US 9.

Where To Stay:

Poke-O Moonshine Campground. It is right there.

1.3.5. Gothics 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Description:

The Gothics is a peak of about 4800' in the High Peaks area of the Adirondack park. There are three main climbing zones up Gothics -- the North Face, a 1200' slab, the south face -- about 600' of slab, and the Rainbow Slide on the east face. The approaches tend to be fairly long and involved, and the routes fairly serious for their grade.

The Gothics peak on google maps: http://maps.google.ca/?ll=44.127367,-73.85366&spn=0.026831,0.066047&t=p&z=15

1.3.6. Jewels and Gems 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Description:

A small cliff on the North side of highway 73, just a bit east of Chapel Pond. With easy top of cliff access, this is a popular area for top-roping.

Approach:

Park about 800m east of the Chapel Pond Pool out on the right (south) side of highway 73, just before the start of a guard rail. Cross the highway, and hike up the obvious, short, trail to the cliff.

Descent Notes:

Fixed anchors on several trees, or walk off (climber's) right.

1.3.7. Hurricane 3 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

1.3.8. Cascade Pass 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,? and Ice

Long/Lat: -73.855835, 44.238853

Description:

route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid

1.3.9. Spider's Web 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.10. baker mtn 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.11. Bark Eater Cliffs 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.12. Creature Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,? and Top Rope

1.3.13. Chapel Pond Slab 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Ice

1.3.14. Noonmark Mountain 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.15. Mekenzie Pond Boulders 20 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.3.16. Pharoah Mountain 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice

1.3.17. Chapel Pond Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice

1.3.18. Chapel Pond Canyon 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Ice,?

1.3.19. Washbowl Cliffs 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,?

1.3.20. Notch Mountain Slab 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.21. Crane Mountain 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

Description:

Located off the beaten track (a.k.a. The Northway), Crane Mountain is a popular hiking destination that is also dotted with cliffs, crags, and boulders. Some of these areas are minutes from the trailhead, others lie two hour's strenuous and uncertain bushwhacking to reach. The Boulderwoods are the most convenient and popular locale, and with about a hundred problems recorded, provide plenty of entertainment for boulderers. The Measles Walls lie fifteen mintues east of the trailhead. This collection of short crags has the only cluster of sport routes, along with a few trad lines. It isn't a major destination, but when time is limited or the weather too cold for long routes, these fill the void. Continuing east, several small crags lie along height of land. These have seen recent development, and now hold some excellent short routes, as well as longer, alpine-style meandering lines. The eastern path ends at the Black Arches Wall, where some of the best climbing on Crane Mountain can be found. Following the hiker's trail north toward the summit, climbers will find crags like Tablerock Corner and the Viewpoint Slab to pass some time; or they can head directly to the top for any of dozens of great routes there. With the publishing of the new guidebook, Adirondack Rock, a few of these climbing areas are now visited frequently. Still, none of the crags is ever crowded.

1.3.22. Huckleberry Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.3.23. Shanty Cliffs 0 routes in Area

1.3.24. Buck Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.3.25. Wallface 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Alpine

1.4. Little Falls 35 routes in Crag

2

2 Moss Island

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -74.840080, 43.034250

1.4.1. The Dihedrals 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.2. Moss Island 32 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -74.847698, 43.039530

1.5. West Point 113 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.5.1. Upper Flirtie Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.2. Middle Flirtie Crag 0 routes in Area

1.5.3. Lower Flirtie Crag 21 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.4. MP Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.5. Dean's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.6. Hog's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.7. South Dock Slab 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.8. Poison Ivy Wall 68 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.9. EURO WALL.....AKA AS SLANTED GULLY 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6. Catskills 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Ice

1.6.1. Kaaterskill Clove 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Ice

1.6.2. Plattekill Close 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice

1.6.3. Stoney Clove 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice

1.6.4. Deep Notch 0 routes in Area

1.7. Armonk 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.8. Kingston Quarry 0 routes in Crag