Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. New York 2,389 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -75.521893, 42.879390

1.1. Shawangunks 1,706 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.316808, 41.624977

1.1.1. The Trapps 953 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.180876, 41.746009

1.1.2. The Near Trapps 219 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.3. Millbrook Mountain 105 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.4. Sky Top 347 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.5. Lost City 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.6. Bonticou 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.7. New Paltz 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.8. Hemlock Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.9. Peterskill 64 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -74.216629, 41.739421

1.2. New York City 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -74.030223, 40.742044

1.2.1. Central Park 68 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -73.965644, 40.782800

History:

While the history of the park is well documented, the history of climbing activity in the park is not. There are no formal annals of ascent. Information as such is so vague and informal, with these qualities reaching far back into the shrouded recess of the unremembered past, that the concept of a first ascent is questionable at best and commonly considered absurd by most locals. It is important to keep in mind that since the time of the Golden Age of Alpinism, thousands of climbers have visited Central Park; including such notables as George Mallory, John Gill and Lynn Hill. In the 60s, Art Gran, Jim McCarthy and other "Vulgarians" from the Gunks made several forays into Central Park. Consequently, the entrenched attitude is, "Everything has probably been done already." (Nick Falacci, 2003)

1.2.2. Central Park West Outcrops 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.2.3. Mannor Park 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -74.126353, 40.588506

1.2.4. New Roc City 0 routes in Area

1.2.5. Fort Tryon Park 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -73.932440, 40.862843

1.3. Adirondacks 422 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -74.381490, 43.911773

Unique Features And Strengths:

Huge state park with lots of rock, from easily approachable to back country.

Description:

Adirondack state park is the largest state in the contiguous 48 states, and covers some 6.1 million acres of land in north-eastern New York state. There is climbing scattered throughout the park, but the concentration is greatest in the north-east centered around Keene.

The guidebook for the area is Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber's Guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas. This is an excellent and exhaustive guide to the climbing in the park. They also supply excellent ongoing support on their website, http://www.adirondackrock.com/ . Along with errata, they supply PDFs of the topos for most of the larger cliffs so you don't have to photocopy or rip-out the topos for the multi-pitch climbs, as well as updates on new development (e.g. some 145 routes on 15 cliffs in the Silver Lake and Potter mountain areas).

Approach:

Varies from cliff to cliff and crag to crag. At the short end, e.g. "Chapel Pond Slab" it is about a minute -- and most people rack up at their car. At the long end, with some of the back-country cliffs, you would be looking at several hours to a day for the approach. And, some cliffs have water approaches.

Where To Stay:

Camping in the park is one option -- groups of up to 10 people can camp anywhere as long as it is more than 150ft from a road, water path, or trail. Camping is allowed up to 3 days without a permit, and no more than 2 weeks at any one location even with a permit (available by phone from the Forest Ranger Office.)

There are, also, numerous small towns throughout the park, and this is holiday and cottage country. So, there are also numerous hotels and motels at various levels of fancy -- especially in the Lake Placid area -- as well as cottage rentals around.

1.3.1. Keene 178 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -73.752319, 44.142373

1.3.2. Cascade Pass 43 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -73.855835, 44.238853

Description:

route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid

1.3.3. Avalanche Pass 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Ice and Unknown

1.3.4. Gothics 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

The Gothics is a peak of about 4800' in the High Peaks area of the Adirondack park. There are three main climbing zones up Gothics -- the North Face, a 1200' slab, the south face -- about 600' of slab, and the Rainbow Slide on the east face. The approaches tend to be fairly long and involved, and the routes fairly serious for their grade.

The Gothics peak on google maps: http://maps.google.ca/?ll=44.127367,-73.85366&spn=0.026831,0.066047&t=p&z=15

1.3.5. Wallface 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Alpine

1.3.6. Roger's Rock 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.7. Poke-O-Moonshine 142 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -73.503250, 44.396753

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of good, longish, routes with easy approaches.

Description:

Poke-O Moonshine is a mountain in the north-east of the Adirondack park. It has a number of cliffs on it, though the main climbing is on the east face of the mountain, the (up to) 400' "Main Face", the south face is less steep, with the 500' Poke-O Moonshine Slab. There are various other cliffs above the main face, and upwards towards the peak.

Access Issues:

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. For this, park at the campground, pay the fee ($1.00 as of 2007) and follow the trails from there.

Approach:

10-25 minutes, generally easy.

Usually park at the campground and take the trails from there, but the slab would be approached from farther south on US 9.

Where To Stay:

Poke-O Moonshine Campground. It is right there.

1.3.8. baker mtn 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.9. Mekenzie Pond Boulders 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.3.10. Pharoah Mountain 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Ice

1.3.11. Notch Mountain Slab 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.12. Crane Mountain 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

Located off the beaten track (a.k.a. The Northway), Crane Mountain is a popular hiking destination that is also dotted with cliffs, crags, and boulders. Some of these areas are minutes from the trailhead, others lie two hour's strenuous and uncertain bushwhacking to reach. The Boulderwoods are the most convenient and popular locale, and with about a hundred problems recorded, provide plenty of entertainment for boulderers. The Measles Walls lie fifteen mintues east of the trailhead. This collection of short crags has the only cluster of sport routes, along with a few trad lines. It isn't a major destination, but when time is limited or the weather too cold for long routes, these fill the void. Continuing east, several small crags lie along height of land. These have seen recent development, and now hold some excellent short routes, as well as longer, alpine-style meandering lines. The eastern path ends at the Black Arches Wall, where some of the best climbing on Crane Mountain can be found. Following the hiker's trail north toward the summit, climbers will find crags like Tablerock Corner and the Viewpoint Slab to pass some time; or they can head directly to the top for any of dozens of great routes there. With the publishing of the new guidebook, Adirondack Rock, a few of these climbing areas are now visited frequently. Still, none of the crags is ever crowded.

1.3.13. Huckleberry Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.3.14. Shanty Cliffs 0 routes in Area

1.3.15. Buck Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.3.16. Old Forge Region 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: -74.963308, 43.730145

1.3.17. High Peaks Wilderness 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

1.4. Little Falls 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -74.840080, 43.034250

1.4.1. The Dihedrals 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.2. Moss Island 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -74.847698, 43.039530

1.5. West Point 113 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -73.959692, 41.377857

1.5.1. Upper Flirtie Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.2. Middle Flirtie Crag 0 routes in Area

1.5.3. Lower Flirtie Crag 21 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.4. MP Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.5. Dean's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.6. Hog's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.7. South Dock Slab 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5.8. Poison Ivy Wall 68 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: -73.959596, 41.377467

Description:

sport routes. bolted.

Approach:

1/4 mile on road left onto railroad tracks (under one mile walk on tracks) cliffs on left, routes marked in white paint on wall.

parking is now limited (as of May 1, 2014 the $5 option at the tracks has been terminated) to the streets above access road. recommend parking near mcdonalds, in west point city, (do not park at mcdonalds, people have been "chased" out before) and hiking down the road to the boat ramp, take left on railroad tracks and continue under one mile to location.

1.5.9. EURO WALL.....AKA AS SLANTED GULLY 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6. Catskills 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Ice

1.6.1. Kaaterskill Clove 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Ice

1.6.2. Plattekill Close 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Ice

1.6.3. Stoney Clove 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Ice

1.6.4. Deep Notch 0 routes in Area

1.7. Armonk 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8. Kingston Quarry 0 routes in Crag