Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North Carolina 608 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -79.293326, 35.510889

1.1. Boone Bouldering 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -81.665207, 36.216012

1.1.1. Blowing Rock Boulders 26 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.2. Grandmother Boulders 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.1.3. The Dump/Morphine Endorphine 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: -81.807187, 36.093971

1.1.4. Lost Cove 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.2. Crowder's Mountain State Park 138 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.273294, 35.234987

Description:

Crowders Mountain is a state park located in western North Carolina. In fact, it's not too far from South Carolina. The rock is of a quartzite that is similar to the rock found around the state. Its easy approach and proximity to Charlotte make Crowders a popular place on the weekends, and not just for climbers (which leads some locals to call the place "Crowded" Mountain).

The rock quality is pretty good and offers something for everyone. There are numerous top-roping opportunities as well as sport and trad with ratings ranging from 5.5 to 5.13. Cliffs generally face east or west, so finding sun or shade is pretty easy (depending on the time of day), though the thick foliage can make finding sun more difficult.

Lambert and Shull's Selected Climbs in North Carolina is a great book for the area; however, it is not comprehensive. There is plenty to do here, however, since it's easy to top-rope quite a bit.

Access Issues:

Keep in mind, this is a state park. Permits are required for climbing and rangers regularly visit the crags and check up on climbers. Permits are free and easy to fill out, so please do this to avoid hassles. Also, there is a gate that opens and closes daily. Please be aware of the time and make sure you leave before closing time.

Approach:

Crowders Mountain is about 30 miles west of Charlotte.

Take I-85 to Exit 13 and make a left off the exit. After this, it depends on where you want to climb. Directions are different for the Hidden Wall and the rest of the areas. Please go to the respective areas to find directions to them.

Ethic:

Top rope, trad, some sport.

1.2.1. Practice Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -81.275166, 35.232403

1.2.2. Unemployment Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.3. David's Castle 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.274499, 35.233318

1.2.4. Nuke the Whales Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.5. Red Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.6. Fortress Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.7. Middle Finger Backside 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.8. Middle Finger Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.9. Two Pitch Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.10. Car Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.11. Gumbies Roof 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.12. First Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.13. Hidden Wall 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.14. Rawlhide Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.15. trundalasaurus 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3. Cullasaja Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Green Mountain Creek 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Hemlock Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Linville Gorge 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -81.901090, 35.879109

Description:

Linville Gorge features long, easy multi pitch trad climbing. Beware however the runouts on some of the easier climbs such as Peek-A-Boo at Table Rock. Most climbing is off vertical, while not exactly slab, have your friction climbing skills dialled.

Access Issues:

Beware that the gate at the base of the paved road is sometimes shut. As of Mar 2014, it is closed so you have quite a long walk up the winding switchback road to get to the start of the approach trail. I think it is opening again in April.

Falcons nest in this area, and seasonal closures are common. Check for current closures before you go.

Approach:

To get here, on google maps navigate to: "Ginger Cake Rd and Table Rock Rd, Newland, NC".

Once you are here, follow Table Rock Road (dirt road) up until you see a turn off to the right to Table Rock Parking area.

Warning: If you google Table Rock and try get there like that, you will come to a dead end on Table Rock Road from certain directions.

The dirt road turns into a very steep, paved road with switchbacks up to the carpark at the base of Table Rock Mountain. The climbers trail is marked on Google Maps.

Where To Stay:

There is quite nice, but primitive camping all along the road to table rock.

Ethic:

Predominantly trad with bolted anchors, but some of the more popular climbs at Table Rock have bolts as well as gear. Don't put any more bolts in please, but some of the bolts could use replacing if you know what you are doing.

1.6.1. Table Rock 74 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -81.883066, 35.890401

1.6.2. Ampitheater 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.893459, 35.870552

1.6.3. Shortoff Mountain 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.896394, 35.838020

1.6.4. North Carolina Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.892481, 35.874292

1.7. Upper Little Wilson 0 routes in Crag

1.8. Little Wilson 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.761722, 36.117217

1.9. Looking Glass 69 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -82.785791, 35.297683

Description:

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Approach:

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

1.9.1. East Face 0 routes in Area

Description:

Located on the east side of the mountain not too far off of the Looking Glass Trail. A couple of obscure walls seperated by a 4th class slab in between. The left side has a few good slabby routes up to 200' in height. It tends to drain water, so dry conditions are best.

Approach:

Park at the Looking Glass Trailhead (the hiking trail to top). Walk about 15 minutes to a point at which a small footpath leads off to the right in the bend of a switchback. Follow this through the small boulderfield and up to the main wall located slightly higher in the woods (than the 4th class wall first encountered on the right).

1.9.2. Hidden Wall 0 routes in Area

Description:

A great spot to check out if you head over to the North Side and find that your desired route is already occupied, or if you just want to get off the main circuit. The Hidden Wall holds a number of great steep, thin climbs, wandering Jeep Gaskin classics, and even a crack or two.

Expect bold eyebrow climbing, amazing in-cuts, and challenging head games.

Approach:

Once reaching the North Side via its main trail, head left at the base. Work all the way past the start of the Sperm and follow the trail down through the woods until you reach another gorgeous wall.

1.9.3. North Side 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -82.791853, 35.305214

Description:

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include The Glass Menagerie and The Womb.

  • routes all listed, need reordering though *
Approach:
  • This is in a different area from the Nose Area, South Side area, etc *. Continue past the road fork where you get to the Nose Area for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of The Glass Menagerie.

1.9.4. Nose Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -82.795180, 35.304507

Description:

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Approach:

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

1.9.5. South Side 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -82.791657, 35.299668

Description:

Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.

*Routes complete, not in order

Approach:

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.

1.9.6. Sun Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -82.794419, 35.302630

Description:

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Approach:

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

1.10. Lost Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Magnet Roof 0 routes in Crag

1.12. Mingo Falls 0 routes in Crag

1.13. Moon Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Moore's Wall 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -80.283416, 36.397372

1.14.1. Hanging Garden 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.14.2. Sentinel Buttress 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.3. The Central Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.4. Stone Tower 0 routes in Area

1.14.5. Meat Puppet Crag 0 routes in Area

1.14.6. Amphitheater 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.7. North End 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.8. Boulders at the base. 0 routes in Area

1.14.9. Boulderfield beyond Tory's Den (euro wall, etc.) 0 routes in Area

1.15. Orange Soda Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.16. Panthertown Valley 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.16.1. Big Green 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.16.2. Black Rock 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.17. Pickens Nose 0 routes in Crag

1.18. Pilot Mountain State Park 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -80.478099, 36.341310

1.19. Poplar Tent 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.20. Raleigh 0 routes in Crag

1.21. Rumbling Bald 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -82.215173, 35.454996

Description:

With all the breakfast-sounding names associated with Rumbling Bald (Hickory Nut Gorge, Cereal Buttress, Frosted Flake), you might think the place was a theme park dreamed up by General Mills. In fact, Rumbling Bald is an excellent winter climbing destination in North Carolina, featuring a mix of granite/gneiss crack and friction climbs, trad and sport styles.

Approach:

Rumbling Bald is located just outside the town of Chimney Rock. From points west (Asheville, etc.), pick up US 74A and go east to where 74A combines with US 64 and SR 9 near Bat Cave. From points east (Charlotte), exit I-85 south of Charlotte for Kings Mountain and US 74; follow 74 west to Forest City and veer off on US 74A west to Bat Cave.

From Bat Cave, follow the signs for Chimney Rock Park and pass the park entrance as you go through the town of Chimney Rock. Not quite a half mile past the park, turn left on Boys Camp Road (SR 1305). Follow this for about a mile and a half to a dirt access road on the left; take the dirt road to one of two parking areas for Rumbling Bald.

Where To Stay:

Camping is not allowed at Rumbling Bald, but there are private campgrounds nearby in the Chimney Rock area. The town also hosts B&Bs and motels for those not wanting to camp, along with good places to eat along the scenic Broad River. And if you get bored with climbing, you can join the tourists across the river at Chimney Rock Park (there is actually climbing in this state-owned park, but only if you hire an authorized guide service).

Ethic:

Everything goes here, there are bolted routes, traditional routes, mixed routes and bouldering.

History:

The history of climbing here is a little hazy, but the first ascents were apparently done in the early 1970s in what’s now known as the Flakeview Area. In the mid-70s, route development began at the Cereal Buttress, with first ascents like Shredded Wheat being made by Jeep Gaskin. Other RB pioneers include Grover Cable, Don Hunley and Sean and Shane Cobourn. The 80s were a time of big growth at areas like Hanging Chain Wall; the 5.12b route of the same name was at one time the hardest line in North Carolina.

In the 90s, Rumbling Bald was closed for several years due to access issues with neighboring landowners. In the late 90s, however, the crag was reopened, with bouldering gaining a predominant popularity among climbers. Most recently, Sean Cobourn and partners have been busy exploring and establishing new routes on Rumbling Bald's north face. At present, land purchases by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, combined with state plans for a Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, make the outlook excellent for continued access.

1.21.1. Cereal Buttress 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: -82.213982, 35.449922

Description:

This is a great - however small - single pitch area with classics such as 'Shreaded Wheat' and 'Frosted Flake'.

Approach:

From the car park, follow the main trail up switchbacks until you come to the boulder field. From the boulder field, look at the far right of the cliffline, this is approximately Cereal Buttress. Take aim, then walk through the boulder field, generally following the cliffline right. The area is marked by a cave that has a warning sign on it, to the right of this crevice / cave is fruit loops and the distinctive 'Frosted Flake'. 'Shreaded Wheat' is to the left of the cave system and is a bit more difficult to spot, look up!.

1.21.2. Comotose Area 0 routes in Area

Description:

Probably not the most popular area at Rumbling Bald, but the Comatose area offers a good selection of all types of climbing. From the classic arching crack of Comatose, to the thin edged face climbing of Rusty Redneck, with a few hard bolted routes and some longer gear routes all mixed in together. Although the number of climbs in this area isn't large, there is enough action to keep one busy for a day.

Approach:

From the parking lot, follow the main approach trail (old jeep road) to where it meets and turns into a smaller trail. Follow the trail up past a boulder field near the base of the cliff. Continue up the trail then contour left along the cliff.

1.21.3. Flakeview Area 0 routes in Area

Description:

Flakeview is a popular area, with a number of good moderate routes as well as some hard bolted lines. It features both face climbs and good slab climbing

Approach:

Going up the road/trail from the parking pulloff, fork to the left (distinctly different trail to the main one) and continue up a fairly steep trail to a large boulder on your left (the Trailside Boulder). Continue another quarter mile or so to the cliffline of Screamweaver Area; go left to get to Flakeview.

1.21.4. Lakeview Area 0 routes in Area

Description:

More gorgeous, slabby face climbing! Beatifully textured rock, very high friction. Awesome.

Approach:

Follow directions for 'Flakeview Area': Going up the road/trail from the parking pulloff, fork to the left and continue up a fairly steep trail to a large boulder on your left (the Trailside Boulder). Continue another quarter mile or so to the cliffline of Screamweaver Area; go left to get to Flakeview.

When you hit the Screamweaver area, go right and up/around to the left. The large, dome-shaped buttress covered in brown, patina-like rock is the Lakeview area.

1.21.5. Screamweaver Area 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -82.217451, 35.450727

Description:

One of the lower cliffs at Rumbling Bald, with a variety of more difficult (5.10-12) routes.

Approach:

From the car park walk down the hill and look for a washed out gulley that leads up the ridgeline. This is a separate path from the nice manicured track that leads to the right and to the Cereal Buttress.

Follow the washed out path up the ridgeline all the way to the main western boulder field. The path splits at one point, stay high, always following the ridge. When you get to the main boulder field, head straight up towards the cliff line and this should put you right at the Screamweaver area, near Zydigo.

1.21.6. Cereal Wall 0 routes in Area

Description:

The big slab behind and right of Cereal Buttress. South facing, low elevation and a great three season area. Most routes are two or three pitches.

Approach:

Walk past the ever popular Cereal Buttress to the east (right) until you hit the wall. There is a trail along the base.

1.22. Sauratown 0 routes in Crag

1.23. Ship Rock 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.24. Snake's Den 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.25. Stack Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.26. Stone Mountain State Park 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -81.068144, 36.403831

1.26.1. South Face 42 routes in Area

Summary:

1.26.2. North Face 0 routes in Area

1.27. Sunken Treasure 0 routes in Crag

1.28. Whiteside Mountain 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -82.345752, 35.413565

1.29. Starr Mountain 0 routes in Crag

1.30. Laurel Knob 0 routes in Crag