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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b * Space Invaders Sport 75ft, 12

FFA: Gene Drake, Rocko Rampino, 1981

2
5.7 Cannibal Gully Mixed 1

Pro to 4".

FFA: Bill Dutton, Paul Sullivan, 1969

3
5.9 Inner Recess Trad

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

4
5.12d * Rambo Crack Trad

FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987

5
5.10b ** Bourbon Street Trad 380ft

Pro to 4".

FFA: Gary Allen, Malcolm Jolly, 1977

6
5.9 ** Touch and Go Trad

Pro to 3", with triples of 2" cams.

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Norm Simmons, 1971

7
5.10d * Pinball Junkie Mixed 70ft, 2

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

8
5.12a Pinball Junkie Variation Unknown 70ft

FFA: unknown

9
5.12b ** Rhythm Killer Sport 70ft, 7

FFA: Mike Carville, 1988

10

FFA: Paul Bancroft late 1970s

11
5.10a Empty Sky Sport 80ft, 5

FFA: Max Jones, Geoff Smith, 1977

12
5.10a ** Hung Over, Hang Over Trad 50ft

Pro to 4".

FFA: Craig Shanholtzer, Norm Simmons, 1975

13
5.10c PG13 * Blow Ups Happen Mixed 50ft, 1

FFA: Max Jones 1970s

14
5.9 * Rat's Tooth Trad 90ft

Pro to 3".

FFA: unknown

15
5.10 PG13 Empty Overgo Trad 400ft

Pro to 3.5". Bolted anchors.

FFA: unknown

16
5.12b ** Bliss Direct Trad 70ft

FFA: Doug Mishler, 1987

17

Thin pro to 1".

18
5.11b *** There Goes the Neighborhood Mixed 85ft, 6

Pro to 3".

FFA: Gene Drake 1990s

19
5.10a ** Skywalker Trad 70ft

Bolted. Pro: 1 small nut.

FFA: ??, 1981

20
5.11c ** Don't Try This at Home Sport 70ft

FFA: Richard Leversee, Greg Smith, Bob Harrington, 1987

21
5.11c * Can't Stop the Dance Trad 60ft

Pro to 1.5", bolts.

FFA: Richard Leversee

22
5.9 *** One Hand Clapping Trad 500ft

FFA: Eric Beck, Peter Haan, 1972

FFA: Kim Schmitz, A.P. Marsten, 1972

23
5.10c ** Fascination Trad

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

24
5.11c Hip to Be There Unknown

FFA: Hans Standteiner, Glen Poulsen, 1987

25
5.11a ** Space Modulator Trad 60ft

Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Pete Chasse, 1996

26
5.8 Tulips Unknown
27
5.10b *** Firecracker Trad 70ft

Pro to 5". Bolted top anchor.

FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1976

28
5.10d ** New Fascination Trad 400ft

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

29
5.10d *** New Moon Trad 70ft

Finger and thin hands crack right of Firecracker. Traverse left to join Firecracker before the roof. Pro to 4".

FFA: John Hoffman, Max Jones, 1976

30
5.11d PG13 *** Full Moon Trad 70ft

Pro to 1".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1978

31
5.10b Future Games Trad

FFA: unknown

32
5.10c Aqua Lung / Aqualung Unknown

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

33
5.8 * On Ramp Trad

Pro to 3".

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Norm Simmons, 1971

34
5.10d R Next Trad 300ft

Pro to 3.5", bolts.

35
5.11b *** Birdy / Birdie Mixed 80ft, 4

FFA: Hans Standteiner, Dale Kim, 1987

36
5.11b *** Slip Stream / Slipstream Mixed 75ft, 1

Pro to 2".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1976

37
5.11c Imaginary Voyage Trad

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

38
5.11a R No Stems, No Seeds Trad 90ft

Tiny pro.

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

39
5.10d Pebble Beach Top rope
40
5.8 R Protection Difficult Unknown
41
5.11b *** Sky Pilot Trad 50ft

Pro to 3".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

42
5.11c *** Headstone Trad 30ft

Pro to 1.25".

FFA: Mark Hudon, 1977

43
5.10d The Fuse Unknown

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1978

44
5.7 Give Me Slack Unknown

FFA: Gene Drake, 1980

45
5.11b Torture Chamber Mixed 5

FFA: Gene Drake, 1988

46
5.10c ** Mr. Clean Trad 80ft

Pro to 2".

FFA: Victor Marcus, Malcolm Jolly, Jim Day, 1977

47
5.11d Ajax Trad

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

48
5.12a R Flying Saucers Unknown

Difficult pro.

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

49
5.8 * Inside Out Trad 60ft

FFA: Barry Dow, Dan Schultz, 1970

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk, A.P. Marsten, 1970

50
5.10b R * Super Slab / Super Slide Trad 60ft

Small pro, bolts.

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

51
5.8 * Donner Delight Trad 120ft

FFA: Gary Allen, 1977

52
5.10c R 1984 Unknown
53
5.7 Silver Book Unknown

FFA: Max Jones, 1976

54
5.10a Tilt Unknown

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

55
5.11a ** Full Tilt Trad 60ft

Pro to 5.5".

FFA: Dale Bard, 1977

56
5.9 The Voyeur Unknown

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

57
5.8 Porno Book Unknown
58
5.10b Cucumber Slumber Unknown

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones

59
5.11 Checkmate Unknown
60
5.9 Mushroom Madness Unknown
61
5.11d * Lightning Bolt Roof Trad 40ft

Pro to 5".

FFA: Jim Orey, 1977

62

Pro to 4".

63
5.12 Rolling Thunder Unknown

FFA: Hidataka Suzuki, 1993

64
5.9 *** Black September Trad 110ft

Pro to 3".

FFA: Eric Beck, et al., 1973

65
5.10c R * Summer Breeze Sport 100ft, 6

Optional 1" cam.

FFA: Brian Biega, 1995

66
5.11c * Indian Summer Trad 60ft

FFA: Eric Perlman

67
5.7 ** Rated X Mixed 190ft, 2

Not quite as interesting as the variations, the original zig-zagging line still serves up fantastic variety of climbing at an easier grade.

  1. 110 ft (5.7) Start up the vertical hand crack up a dihedral to a small ledge. Follow the obvious large flake past 2 bolts to the large ledge. Traverse left to the start of the second pitch. Variations (5.8 and 5.9+) begin at the base of the vertical off-width / fist crack. Continue left for the original second pitch. Bring one or two pieces of 4' pro for the flake and place them carefully.

  2. 90 ft (5.7) Follow the diagonal crack and ramp back to the right, passing under the roof and around to the right before traverse horizontally back left. Follow the fingers/hands splitter crack to the bolted anchor.

Chains at the right of the large ledge above the first pitch allow you to top-rope the first pitch as well as the interesting face climbing just right of the first pitch. If top-roping the first pitch, use the last bolt as a redirect. Resist any temptation to belay the second pitch from these chains. Instead, traverse left and build an anchor before starting the second pitch.

Descend in two rappels. The lip of the roof can snag a rope, so be careful when pulling the rope after the first rappel.

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk, 1972

68
5.8 ** Rated X Variation 1 Mixed 190ft, 2

Instead of traversing all the way left, start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pick up the original route, avoiding the roof.

69
5.9 *** Rated X Variation 2 Mixed 190ft, 2

Start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pull the roof!

70
5.11a R ** Finger Licker Trad

Excellent top rope after Rated X.

  1. 70ft (5.11a R) Tricky gear.

  2. ??ft (5.10+) Rarely climbed.

FFA: Ron Kauk, 1975

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

71
5.11d PG13 * The Hook / Captain Hook Mixed 65ft, 1

Pro to 7".

FFA: unknown

72
5.6 R ** Labyrinth Trad 200ft

Pro to 3".

FFA: John Hoffman, Bob Carter, Paul Schimmon, Ken Volz, 1972

73
5.7 Minotaur Unknown

FFA: John Hoffman, Fred Andregg, 1972

74
5.11a High Energy Unknown
75
5.10a *** Primer Trad 50ft

FFA: unknown