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Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Gene Drake & Rocko Rampino, 1981

Pro to 4".

FFA: Bill Dutton & Paul Sullivan, 1969

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987

Pro to 4".

FFA: Gary Allen & Malcolm Jolly, 1977

Pro to 3", with triples of 2" cams.

FFA: Kim Schmitz & Norm Simmons, 1971

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

FFA: unknown

FFA: Mike Carville, 1988

FFA: Paul Bancroft late 1970s

FFA: Max Jones & Geoff Smith, 1977

Pro to 4".

FFA: Craig Shanholtzer & Norm Simmons, 1975

FFA: Max Jones 1970s

Pro to 3".

FFA: unknown

Pro to 3.5". Bolted anchors.

FFA: unknown

FFA: Doug Mishler, 1987

Thin pro to 1".

Pro to 3".

FFA: Gene Drake 1990s

Bolted. Pro: 1 small nut.

FFA: ??, 1981

FFA: Richard Leversee, Greg Smith & Bob Harrington, 1987

Pro to 1.5", bolts.

FFA: Richard Leversee

FFA: Eric Beck & Peter Haan, 1972

FFA: Kim Schmitz & A.P. Marsten, 1972

FFA: Gary Allen & Max Jones, 1977

FFA: Hans Standteiner & Glen Poulsen, 1987

Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Pete Chasse, 1996

Pro to 5". Bolted top anchor.

FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1976

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

Finger and thin hands crack right of Firecracker. Traverse left to join Firecracker before the roof. Pro to 4".

FFA: John Hoffman & Max Jones, 1976

Pro to 1".

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1978

FFA: unknown

FFA: Gary Allen & Max Jones, 1977

Pro to 3".

FFA: Kim Schmitz & Norm Simmons, 1971

Pro to 3.5", bolts.

FFA: Hans Standteiner & Dale Kim, 1987

Pro to 2".

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1976

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1977

Tiny pro.

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1977

Pro to 3".

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1977

Pro to 1.25".

FFA: Mark Hudon, 1977

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1978

FFA: Gene Drake, 1980

FFA: Gene Drake, 1988

Pro to 2".

FFA: Victor Marcus, Malcolm Jolly & Jim Day, 1977

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

Difficult pro.

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

FFA: Barry Dow & Dan Schultz, 1970

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk & A.P. Marsten, 1970

Small pro, bolts.

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1977

FFA: Gary Allen, 1977

FFA: Max Jones, 1976

FFA: Gary Allen & Max Jones, 1977

Pro to 5.5".

FFA: Dale Bard, 1977

FFA: Gary Allen & Max Jones, 1977

FFA: Gary Allen & Max Jones

Pro to 5".

FFA: Jim Orey, 1977

Pro to 4".

FFA: Hidataka Suzuki, 1993

Pro to 3".

FFA: Eric Beck & et al., 1973

Optional 1" cam.

FFA: Brian Biega, 1995

FFA: Eric Perlman

Not quite as interesting as the variations, the original zig-zagging line still serves up fantastic variety of climbing at an easier grade.

  1. 110 ft (5.7) Start up the vertical hand crack up a dihedral to a small ledge. Follow the obvious large flake past 2 bolts to the large ledge. Traverse left to the start of the second pitch. Variations (5.8 and 5.9+) begin at the base of the vertical off-width / fist crack. Continue left for the original second pitch. Bring one or two pieces of 4' pro for the flake and place them carefully.

  2. 90 ft (5.7) Follow the diagonal crack and ramp back to the right, passing under the roof and around to the right before traverse horizontally back left. Follow the fingers/hands splitter crack to the bolted anchor.

Chains at the right of the large ledge above the first pitch allow you to top-rope the first pitch as well as the interesting face climbing just right of the first pitch. If top-roping the first pitch, use the last bolt as a redirect. Resist any temptation to belay the second pitch from these chains. Instead, traverse left and build an anchor before starting the second pitch.

Descend in two rappels. The lip of the roof can snag a rope, so be careful when pulling the rope after the first rappel.

FFA: Eric Beck & Harry Smeenk, 1972

Instead of traversing all the way left, start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pick up the original route, avoiding the roof.

Start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pull the roof!

Excellent top rope after Rated X.

  1. 70ft (5.11a R) Tricky gear.

  2. ??ft (5.10+) Rarely climbed.

FFA: Ron Kauk, 1975

FFA: Max Jones & Gary Allen, 1977

Pro to 7".

FFA: unknown

Pro to 3".

FFA: John Hoffman, Bob Carter, Paul Schimmon & Ken Volz, 1972

FFA: John Hoffman & Fred Andregg, 1972

FFA: unknown

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