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Table of contents

1. Black Wall 75 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -120.314579, 39.325514

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Space Invaders

FFA: Gene Drake, Rocko Rampino, 1981

5.10bSport 75ft, 12
2 Cannibal Gully

Pro to 4".

FFA: Bill Dutton, Paul Sullivan, 1969

5.7Mixed 1
3 Inner Recess

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

5.9Trad
4 * Rambo Crack

FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987

5.12dTrad
5 ** Bourbon Street

Pro to 4".

FFA: Gary Allen, Malcolm Jolly, 1977

5.10bTrad 380ft
6 ** Touch and Go

Pro to 3", with triples of 2" cams.

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Norm Simmons, 1971

5.9Trad
7 * Pinball Junkie

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

5.10dMixed 70ft, 2
8 Pinball Junkie Variation

FFA: unknown

5.12aUnknown 70ft
9 ** Rhythm Killer

FFA: Mike Carville, 1988

5.12bSport 70ft, 7
10 ** Empty Sky Direct

FFA: Paul Bancroft late 1970s

5.10Trad
11 Empty Sky

FFA: Max Jones, Geoff Smith, 1977

5.10aSport 80ft, 5
12 ** Hung Over, Hang Over

Pro to 4".

FFA: Craig Shanholtzer, Norm Simmons, 1975

5.10aTrad 50ft
13 * Blow Ups Happen

FFA: Max Jones 1970s

5.10c PG13Mixed 50ft, 1
14 * Rat's Tooth

Pro to 3".

FFA: unknown

5.9Trad 90ft
15 Empty Overgo

Pro to 3.5". Bolted anchors.

FFA: unknown

5.10 PG13Trad 400ft
16 ** Bliss Direct

FFA: Doug Mishler, 1987

5.12bTrad 70ft
17 ** Bliss / Bliss of the Knife

Thin pro to 1".

5.10dTrad 70ft
18 *** There Goes the Neighborhood

Pro to 3".

FFA: Gene Drake 1990s

5.11bMixed 85ft, 6
19 ** Skywalker

Bolted. Pro: 1 small nut.

FFA: ??, 1981

5.10aTrad 70ft
20 ** Don't Try This at Home

FFA: Richard Leversee, Greg Smith, Bob Harrington, 1987

5.11cSport 70ft
21 * Can't Stop the Dance

Pro to 1.5", bolts.

FFA: Richard Leversee

5.11cTrad 60ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** One Hand Clapping

FFA: Eric Beck, Peter Haan, 1972

FFA: Kim Schmitz, A.P. Marsten, 1972

5.9Trad 500ft
23 ** Fascination

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.10cTrad
24 Hip to Be There

FFA: Hans Standteiner, Glen Poulsen, 1987

5.11cUnknown
25 ** Space Modulator

Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Pete Chasse, 1996

5.11aTrad 60ft
26 Tulips 5.8Unknown
27 *** Firecracker

Pro to 5". Bolted top anchor.

FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1976

5.10bTrad 70ft
28 ** New Fascination

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

5.10dTrad 400ft
29 *** New Moon

Finger and thin hands crack right of Firecracker. Traverse left to join Firecracker before the roof. Pro to 4".

FFA: John Hoffman, Max Jones, 1976

5.10dTrad 70ft
30 *** Full Moon

Pro to 1".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1978

5.11d PG13Trad 70ft
31 Future Games

FFA: unknown

5.10bTrad
32 Aqua Lung / Aqualung

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.10cUnknown
33 * On Ramp

Pro to 3".

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Norm Simmons, 1971

5.8Trad
34 Next

Pro to 3.5", bolts.

5.10d RTrad 300ft
35 *** Birdy / Birdie

FFA: Hans Standteiner, Dale Kim, 1987

5.11bMixed 80ft, 4
36 *** Slip Stream / Slipstream

Pro to 2".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1976

5.11bMixed 75ft, 1
37 Imaginary Voyage

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11cTrad
38 No Stems, No Seeds

Tiny pro.

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11a RTrad 90ft
39 Pebble Beach 5.10dTop rope
40 Protection Difficult 5.8 RUnknown
41 *** Sky Pilot

Pro to 3".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11bTrad 50ft
42 *** Headstone

Pro to 1.25".

FFA: Mark Hudon, 1977

5.11cTrad 30ft
43 The Fuse

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1978

5.10dUnknown
44 Give Me Slack

FFA: Gene Drake, 1980

5.7Unknown
45 Torture Chamber

FFA: Gene Drake, 1988

5.11bMixed 5
46 ** Mr. Clean

Pro to 2".

FFA: Victor Marcus, Malcolm Jolly, Jim Day, 1977

5.10cTrad 80ft
47 Ajax

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

5.11dTrad
48 Flying Saucers

Difficult pro.

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

5.12a RUnknown
49 * Inside Out

FFA: Barry Dow, Dan Schultz, 1970

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk, A.P. Marsten, 1970

5.8Trad 60ft
50 * Super Slab / Super Slide

Small pro, bolts.

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.10b RTrad 60ft
51 * Donner Delight

FFA: Gary Allen, 1977

5.8Trad 120ft
52 1984 5.10c RUnknown
53 Silver Book

FFA: Max Jones, 1976

5.7Unknown
54 Tilt

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.10aUnknown
55 ** Full Tilt

Pro to 5.5".

FFA: Dale Bard, 1977

5.11aTrad 60ft
56 The Voyeur

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.9Unknown
57 Porno Book 5.8Unknown
58 Cucumber Slumber

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones

5.10bUnknown
59 Checkmate 5.11Unknown
60 Mushroom Madness 5.9Unknown
61 * Lightning Bolt Roof

Pro to 5".

FFA: Jim Orey, 1977

5.11dTrad 40ft
62 Lightning Bolt Roof Variation

Pro to 4".

5.12bTrad 40ft
63 Rolling Thunder

FFA: Hidataka Suzuki, 1993

5.12Unknown
64 *** Black September

Pro to 3".

FFA: Eric Beck, et al., 1973

5.9Trad 110ft
65 * Summer Breeze

Optional 1" cam.

FFA: Brian Biega, 1995

5.10c RSport 100ft, 6
66 * Indian Summer

FFA: Eric Perlman

5.11cTrad 60ft
67 ** Rated X

Not quite as interesting as the variations, the original zig-zagging line still serves up fantastic variety of climbing at an easier grade.

  1. 110 ft (5.7) Start up the vertical hand crack up a dihedral to a small ledge. Follow the obvious large flake past 2 bolts to the large ledge. Traverse left to the start of the second pitch. Variations (5.8 and 5.9+) begin at the base of the vertical off-width / fist crack. Continue left for the original second pitch. Bring one or two pieces of 4' pro for the flake and place them carefully.

  2. 90 ft (5.7) Follow the diagonal crack and ramp back to the right, passing under the roof and around to the right before traverse horizontally back left. Follow the fingers/hands splitter crack to the bolted anchor.

Chains at the right of the large ledge above the first pitch allow you to top-rope the first pitch as well as the interesting face climbing just right of the first pitch. If top-roping the first pitch, use the last bolt as a redirect. Resist any temptation to belay the second pitch from these chains. Instead, traverse left and build an anchor before starting the second pitch.

Descend in two rappels. The lip of the roof can snag a rope, so be careful when pulling the rope after the first rappel.

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk, 1972

5.7Mixed 190ft, 2
68 ** Rated X Variation 1

Instead of traversing all the way left, start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pick up the original route, avoiding the roof.

5.8Mixed 190ft, 2
69 *** Rated X Variation 2

Start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pull the roof!

5.9Mixed 190ft, 2
70 ** Finger Licker

Excellent top rope after Rated X.

  1. 70ft (5.11a R) Tricky gear.

  2. ??ft (5.10+) Rarely climbed.

FFA: Ron Kauk, 1975

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11a RTrad
71 * The Hook / Captain Hook

Pro to 7".

FFA: unknown

5.11d PG13Mixed 65ft, 1
72 ** Labyrinth

Pro to 3".

FFA: John Hoffman, Bob Carter, Paul Schimmon, Ken Volz, 1972

5.6 RTrad 200ft
73 Minotaur

FFA: John Hoffman, Fred Andregg, 1972

5.7Unknown
74 High Energy 5.11aUnknown
75 *** Primer

FFA: unknown

5.10aTrad 50ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.6 ** Labyrinth Trad 200ft
5.7 Cannibal Gully Mixed 1
Give Me Slack Unknown
Minotaur Unknown
** Rated X Mixed 190ft, 2
Silver Book Unknown
5.8 * Donner Delight Trad 120ft
* Inside Out Trad 60ft
* On Ramp Trad
Porno Book Unknown
Protection Difficult Unknown
** Rated X Variation 1 Mixed 190ft, 2
Tulips Unknown
5.9 *** Black September Trad 110ft
Inner Recess Trad
Mushroom Madness Unknown
*** One Hand Clapping Trad 500ft
* Rat's Tooth Trad 90ft
*** Rated X Variation 2 Mixed 190ft, 2
The Voyeur Unknown
** Touch and Go Trad
5.10a Empty Sky Sport 80ft, 5
** Hung Over, Hang Over Trad 50ft
*** Primer Trad 50ft
** Skywalker Trad 70ft
Tilt Unknown
5.10b ** Bourbon Street Trad 380ft
Cucumber Slumber Unknown
*** Firecracker Trad 70ft
Future Games Trad
* Space Invaders Sport 75ft, 12
* Super Slab Trad 60ft
5.10c 1984 Unknown
Aqua Lung Unknown
* Blow Ups Happen Mixed 50ft, 1
** Fascination Trad
** Mr. Clean Trad 80ft
* Summer Breeze Sport 100ft, 6
5.10 Empty Overgo Trad 400ft
** Empty Sky Direct Trad
5.10d ** Bliss Trad 70ft
** New Fascination Trad 400ft
*** New Moon Trad 70ft
Next Trad 300ft
Pebble Beach Top rope
* Pinball Junkie Mixed 70ft, 2
The Fuse Unknown
5.11a ** Finger Licker Trad
** Full Tilt Trad 60ft
High Energy Unknown
No Stems, No Seeds Trad 90ft
** Space Modulator Trad 60ft
5.11b *** Birdy Mixed 80ft, 4
*** Sky Pilot Trad 50ft
*** Slip Stream Mixed 75ft, 1
*** There Goes the Neighborhood Mixed 85ft, 6
Torture Chamber Mixed 5
5.11c * Can't Stop the Dance Trad 60ft
** Don't Try This at Home Sport 70ft
*** Headstone Trad 30ft
Hip to Be There Unknown
Imaginary Voyage Trad
* Indian Summer Trad 60ft
5.11 Checkmate Unknown
5.11d Ajax Trad
*** Full Moon Trad 70ft
* Lightning Bolt Roof Trad 40ft
* The Hook Mixed 65ft, 1
5.12a Flying Saucers Unknown
Pinball Junkie Variation Unknown 70ft
5.12b ** Bliss Direct Trad 70ft
Lightning Bolt Roof Variation Trad 40ft
** Rhythm Killer Sport 70ft, 7
5.12 Rolling Thunder Unknown
5.12d * Rambo Crack Trad