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Table of contents

1. Black Wall 75 routes in Cliff

Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -120.314579, 39.325514

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Space Invaders

FFA: Gene Drake, Rocko Rampino, 1981

5.10b Sport 75ft, 12
2 Cannibal Gully

Pro to 4".

FFA: Bill Dutton, Paul Sullivan, 1969

5.7 Mixed 3 1
3 Inner Recess

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

5.9 Trad 3
4 * Rambo Crack

FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987

5.12d Trad
5 ** Bourbon Street

Pro to 4".

FFA: Gary Allen, Malcolm Jolly, 1977

5.10b Trad 380ft 4
6 ** Touch and Go

Pro to 3", with triples of 2" cams.

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Norm Simmons, 1971

5.9 Trad 4
7 * Pinball Junkie

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

5.10d Mixed 70ft, 2
8 Pinball Junkie Variation

FFA: unknown

5.12a Unknown 70ft
9 ** Rhythm Killer

FFA: Mike Carville, 1988

5.12b Sport 70ft, 7
10 ** Empty Sky Direct

FFA: Paul Bancroft late 1970s

5.10 Trad
11 Empty Sky

FFA: Max Jones, Geoff Smith, 1977

5.10a Sport 80ft, 5
12 ** Hung Over, Hang Over

Pro to 4".

FFA: Craig Shanholtzer, Norm Simmons, 1975

5.10a Trad 50ft
13 * Blow Ups Happen

FFA: Max Jones 1970s

5.10c PG13 Mixed 50ft, 1
14 * Rat's Tooth

Pro to 3".

FFA: unknown

5.9 Trad 90ft
15 Empty Overgo

Pro to 3.5". Bolted anchors.

FFA: unknown

5.10 PG13 Trad 400ft 4
16 ** Bliss Direct

FFA: Doug Mishler, 1987

5.12b Trad 70ft
17 ** Bliss / Bliss of the Knife

Thin pro to 1".

5.10d Trad 70ft
18 *** There Goes the Neighborhood

Pro to 3".

FFA: Gene Drake 1990s

5.11b Mixed 85ft, 6
19 ** Skywalker

Bolted. Pro: 1 small nut.

FFA: ??, 1981

5.10a Trad 70ft
20 ** Don't Try This at Home

FFA: Richard Leversee, Greg Smith, Bob Harrington, 1987

5.11c Sport 70ft
21 * Can't Stop the Dance

Pro to 1.5", bolts.

FFA: Richard Leversee

5.11c Trad 60ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** One Hand Clapping

FFA: Eric Beck, Peter Haan, 1972

FFA: Kim Schmitz, A.P. Marsten, 1972

5.9 Trad 500ft 4
23 ** Fascination

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.10c Trad
24 Hip to Be There

FFA: Hans Standteiner, Glen Poulsen, 1987

5.11c Unknown
25 ** Space Modulator

Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Pete Chasse, 1996

5.11a Trad 60ft
26 Tulips 5.8 Unknown
27 *** Firecracker

Pro to 5". Bolted top anchor.

FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1976

5.10b Trad 70ft
28 ** New Fascination

Pro to 4".

FFA: unknown

5.10d Trad 400ft 3
29 *** New Moon

Finger and thin hands crack right of Firecracker. Traverse left to join Firecracker before the roof. Pro to 4".

FFA: John Hoffman, Max Jones, 1976

5.10d Trad 70ft
30 *** Full Moon

Pro to 1".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1978

5.11d PG13 Trad 70ft
31 Future Games

FFA: unknown

5.10b Trad
32 Aqua Lung / Aqualung

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.10c Unknown
33 * On Ramp

Pro to 3".

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Norm Simmons, 1971

5.8 Trad 3
34 Next

Pro to 3.5", bolts.

5.10d R Trad 300ft 3
35 *** Birdy / Birdie

FFA: Hans Standteiner, Dale Kim, 1987

5.11b Mixed 80ft, 4
36 *** Slip Stream / Slipstream

Pro to 2".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1976

5.11b Mixed 75ft, 1
37 Imaginary Voyage

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11c Trad
38 No Stems, No Seeds

Tiny pro.

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11a R Trad 90ft
39 Pebble Beach 5.10d Top rope
40 Protection Difficult 5.8 R Unknown
41 *** Sky Pilot

Pro to 3".

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11b Trad 50ft
42 *** Headstone

Pro to 1.25".

FFA: Mark Hudon, 1977

5.11c Trad 30ft
43 The Fuse

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1978

5.10d Unknown
44 Give Me Slack

FFA: Gene Drake, 1980

5.7 Unknown
45 Torture Chamber

FFA: Gene Drake, 1988

5.11b Mixed 5
46 ** Mr. Clean

Pro to 2".

FFA: Victor Marcus, Malcolm Jolly, Jim Day, 1977

5.10c Trad 80ft
47 Ajax

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

5.11d Trad
48 Flying Saucers

Difficult pro.

FFA: Todd Worsfold, 1988

5.12a R Unknown
49 * Inside Out

FFA: Barry Dow, Dan Schultz, 1970

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk, A.P. Marsten, 1970

5.8 Trad 60ft
50 * Super Slab / Super Slide

Small pro, bolts.

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.10b R Trad 60ft
51 * Donner Delight

FFA: Gary Allen, 1977

5.8 Trad 120ft
52 1984 5.10c R Unknown
53 Silver Book

FFA: Max Jones, 1976

5.7 Unknown
54 Tilt

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.10a Unknown
55 ** Full Tilt

Pro to 5.5".

FFA: Dale Bard, 1977

5.11a Trad 60ft
56 The Voyeur

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones, 1977

5.9 Unknown
57 Porno Book 5.8 Unknown
58 Cucumber Slumber

FFA: Gary Allen, Max Jones

5.10b Unknown
59 Checkmate 5.11 Unknown
60 Mushroom Madness 5.9 Unknown
61 * Lightning Bolt Roof

Pro to 5".

FFA: Jim Orey, 1977

5.11d Trad 40ft
62 Lightning Bolt Roof Variation

Pro to 4".

5.12b Trad 40ft
63 Rolling Thunder

FFA: Hidataka Suzuki, 1993

5.12 Unknown
64 *** Black September

Pro to 3".

FFA: Eric Beck, et al., 1973

5.9 Trad 110ft
65 * Summer Breeze

Optional 1" cam.

FFA: Brian Biega, 1995

5.10c R Sport 100ft, 6
66 * Indian Summer

FFA: Eric Perlman

5.11c Trad 60ft
67 ** Rated X

Not quite as interesting as the variations, the original zig-zagging line still serves up fantastic variety of climbing at an easier grade.

  1. 110 ft (5.7) Start up the vertical hand crack up a dihedral to a small ledge. Follow the obvious large flake past 2 bolts to the large ledge. Traverse left to the start of the second pitch. Variations (5.8 and 5.9+) begin at the base of the vertical off-width / fist crack. Continue left for the original second pitch. Bring one or two pieces of 4' pro for the flake and place them carefully.

  2. 90 ft (5.7) Follow the diagonal crack and ramp back to the right, passing under the roof and around to the right before traverse horizontally back left. Follow the fingers/hands splitter crack to the bolted anchor.

Chains at the right of the large ledge above the first pitch allow you to top-rope the first pitch as well as the interesting face climbing just right of the first pitch. If top-roping the first pitch, use the last bolt as a redirect. Resist any temptation to belay the second pitch from these chains. Instead, traverse left and build an anchor before starting the second pitch.

Descend in two rappels. The lip of the roof can snag a rope, so be careful when pulling the rope after the first rappel.

FFA: Eric Beck, Harry Smeenk, 1972

5.7 Mixed 190ft 2, 2
68 ** Rated X Variation 1

Instead of traversing all the way left, start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pick up the original route, avoiding the roof.

5.8 Mixed 190ft 2, 2
69 *** Rated X Variation 2

Start the second pitch with the vertical off-width / fist crack, and then pull the roof!

5.9 Mixed 190ft 2, 2
70 ** Finger Licker

Excellent top rope after Rated X.

  1. 70ft (5.11a R) Tricky gear.

  2. ??ft (5.10+) Rarely climbed.

FFA: Ron Kauk, 1975

FFA: Max Jones, Gary Allen, 1977

5.11a R Trad 2
71 * The Hook / Captain Hook

Pro to 7".

FFA: unknown

5.11d PG13 Mixed 65ft, 1
72 ** Labyrinth

Pro to 3".

FFA: John Hoffman, Bob Carter, Paul Schimmon, Ken Volz, 1972

5.6 R Trad 200ft 3
73 Minotaur

FFA: John Hoffman, Fred Andregg, 1972

5.7 Unknown
74 High Energy 5.11a Unknown
75 *** Primer

FFA: unknown

5.10a Trad 50ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.6 R ** Labyrinth Trad 200ft 3
5.7 Cannibal Gully Mixed 3 1
Give Me Slack Unknown
Minotaur Unknown
** Rated X Mixed 190ft 2, 2
Silver Book Unknown
5.8 * Donner Delight Trad 120ft
* Inside Out Trad 60ft
* On Ramp Trad 3
Porno Book Unknown
Protection Difficult Unknown
** Rated X Variation 1 Mixed 190ft 2, 2
Tulips Unknown
5.9 *** Black September Trad 110ft
Inner Recess Trad 3
Mushroom Madness Unknown
*** One Hand Clapping Trad 500ft 4
* Rat's Tooth Trad 90ft
*** Rated X Variation 2 Mixed 190ft 2, 2
The Voyeur Unknown
** Touch and Go Trad 4
5.10a Empty Sky Sport 80ft, 5
** Hung Over, Hang Over Trad 50ft
*** Primer Trad 50ft
** Skywalker Trad 70ft
Tilt Unknown
5.10b ** Bourbon Street Trad 380ft 4
Cucumber Slumber Unknown
*** Firecracker Trad 70ft
Future Games Trad
* Space Invaders Sport 75ft, 12
* Super Slab Trad 60ft
5.10c 1984 Unknown
Aqua Lung Unknown
** Fascination Trad
** Mr. Clean Trad 80ft
5.10c PG13 * Blow Ups Happen Mixed 50ft, 1
5.10c R * Summer Breeze Sport 100ft, 6
5.10 ** Empty Sky Direct Trad
5.10 PG13 Empty Overgo Trad 400ft 4
5.10d ** Bliss Trad 70ft
** New Fascination Trad 400ft 3
*** New Moon Trad 70ft
Next Trad 300ft 3
Pebble Beach Top rope
* Pinball Junkie Mixed 70ft, 2
The Fuse Unknown
5.11a ** Full Tilt Trad 60ft
High Energy Unknown
** Space Modulator Trad 60ft
5.11a R ** Finger Licker Trad 2
No Stems, No Seeds Trad 90ft
5.11b *** Birdy Mixed 80ft, 4
*** Sky Pilot Trad 50ft
*** Slip Stream Mixed 75ft, 1
*** There Goes the Neighborhood Mixed 85ft, 6
Torture Chamber Mixed 5
5.11c * Can't Stop the Dance Trad 60ft
** Don't Try This at Home Sport 70ft
*** Headstone Trad 30ft
Hip to Be There Unknown
Imaginary Voyage Trad
* Indian Summer Trad 60ft
5.11 Checkmate Unknown
5.11d Ajax Trad
* Lightning Bolt Roof Trad 40ft
5.11d PG13 *** Full Moon Trad 70ft
* The Hook Mixed 65ft, 1
5.12a Flying Saucers Unknown
Pinball Junkie Variation Unknown 70ft
5.12b ** Bliss Direct Trad 70ft
Lightning Bolt Roof Variation Trad 40ft
** Rhythm Killer Sport 70ft, 7
5.12 Rolling Thunder Unknown
5.12d * Rambo Crack Trad