Eagle Creek Canyon Guide

Begin with very enjoyable technical face climbing on incut edges to a decent rest. Following the rest stance, climb the crux bulge using underclings, gastons, and sloper side pulls. The crux is followed by really fun jug climbing for 30 feet. This is a really nice route; well bolted and longer than the 11- routes to the right. My only complaint would be that you can clip bolts for routes on your right and left at one point.

4th bolt-line from the right (Car Jacker being the first line) on the lower, west facing cliff.

8 bolts + anchors

The line squeezed in just left of DWI shares some holds through the lower portion and has some interesting features of it's own higher on the wall.

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

This route is located on the face of the lower section of Mayhem Cove, which is the first section of rock you will get to taking the main path.

It starts on the second line of bolts from the right, and where the climb hits a bulge about 20 feet off the ground, you continue up the line of bolts that go straight up, instead of out over the bulge. The climb over the bulge is called Overkill (5.11c).

Climb the tough sustained face to a convoluted rest at the left side of the bulge, then continue up through chimney-esque moves to the top.

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Same start as DWI but go right out the roof to the arete / prow excellent upper section

Climb the rightmost line of bolts on the lower section of Mayhem Cove.

Being the only existing 5.9 in Mayhem Cove, this is a great warmup, A tricky interesting move gets you up over the bulge about 20 feet up. Climbing after the first bulge is pretty straighforward, but well worth the climb. This route is pretty pumpy for a 5.9.

It's a fairly long ways to the first bolt, but the climbing up to this point is easy. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor (mussys) and a poor-quality open shut.

Huntin' Gator is the first pitch of the infamous test piece Cajun Hell. Take the class 4 scramble up the long diagonal ramp cutting leftward up Mayhem Cove. It begins within the cave as the second route from the right and fourth from the left although the bolted lines for the other routes are sporadic at best. 7 bolts lead to a 2 bolt hanging belay anchor system on the headwall. Find the fixed bolt on the ramp for the belay person. The second through fourth bolts have fixed chains so you'll know you're on the right route. Through the first four bolts you're treated to wildly overhanging powerful moves rightward out to the overhanging face. The next 2 bolts offer big holds and a chance to catch your breath, but the technical redpoint crux awaits as you move up and left towards the anchors.

If you continue up and left past the anchors following the diagonal seam along the overhanging headwall, this is Drinkin' White Lightning, the 5.12c second half of Cajun Hell.

7 bolts to a 2 bolt wire cable and fixed biner anchor system

Awesome alternative before the business on Cajun Hell. A dicey lay back leads to a slopy hand traverse and a pumpy finish. One of the best on the wall

Head up through the mini roof and onto the face. A couple of tricky sequencing leads to a double crack and chains. Very well protected. Second route on ramp. 15 bolts plus mussy hooks for anchors

Start up the right-facing corner. A couple of easy moves gets you to the first bolt. Climb through a series of roofs and blocks leading to a clean corner capped with a small roof. A few more bolts of climbing leads you to the first anchor.

*New extension: From the anchors climb straight up into the Gulliontin to a small shelf above for a great view. 3 Bolts (10a) - Still Dirty, Beware.

12 bolts + mussy hooks

The lowest climb on the ledge that cuts diagonally up and left across Mayhem Cove, Skullduggery ascends numerous overhaning blocks with many hand-to-fist-sized cracks between them.

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There's a bolt up and right of the first bolt that is completely off route, as the following bolt is left of the first.

To the left of the diamond. It is right at the base of the large ramp that heads up left to harder routes.

Start at some large blocky terrain. It's safer to come in from the left if leading, but a direct start is possible. Follow some blocks for about 5 bolts through a few powerful moves with good pro. Then surmount an overhanging bulge and finally there are a few smooth ramps with face climbing.

This route has it's own anchors and it's easy to reach Diamond's anchors as well.

12 bolts + anchor bolts

This might be the same as QFP but listed differently in the supper topo guide

This climb is pretty fun for the novelty alone. A progressively widening chimney finally leads to face moves at the very top. Well, for the shorties it does, at even a mere 6' in height I was able to use the back wall all the way up to get my full stem's worth. Bolts make this climb very accessible.

This climb is located in the obvious chimney formed by the detached pillar that is directly in front of the wall forming the famous Spacewalk crack system. Bolts to wrap anchor.