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Grade Route

A classic line offering a little bit of everything.

  1. 30m (5.6) Up the nice slab following two diagonal seams (exceptionally thin gear - this would be a bold lead) to a bolted rap anchor. Can be skipped or TRed via a 4th class corner system up to the right.

  2. 15m (5.6) Nice slab past 3 bolts, then step right beneath the precarious perched blocks to a bolted rap anchor.

  3. 15m (5.2) Up the wide corner then left (watch out for a large loose flake) to the main corner (natural anchor) just near a small tree.

  4. 55m (5.7) The money pitch - follow the awesome narrow corner past several overlaps to a bolted rap anchor. Can descend from here with double ropes (recommended).

  5. 30m (5.7) Up and right past the obvious "fang" of rock, through several overlaps and past a number of death blocks, to the top. Walk off.

The 5th pitch is dangerous and not recommended - best to abseil off after P4.

Direct variant to pitch 3 and part of pitch 4 of 'It's Better with Bacon'.

  1. 35m (5.8) As for pitch 3, but instead of stepping left, continue straight up the sustained slab past 3 bolts to a large overlap. Over this (crux), passing one more bolt to hanging belay / rap anchor.

  2. 35m (5.8) Continue up the reachy slab to a bolt, then step left below the next overlap to rejoin 'It's Better with Bacon' P4.

FA: Tad Steel & Linda Jarret

Sustained quality climbing, and solid at the grade. Gear plus 2 bolts to a double bolt lower off.


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