Routes as trad in Lover's Leap

A great first pitch, and easier, but still very pleasant pitches above.

1. 50m (5.7) Up the obvious crack (which is mostly easier than it looks) to belay on the obvious big ledge (keep some mid-size cams). Can be split into two (or even three) pitches.

2. 50m (5.6) Hardish move to gain face, clip bolt out right, then up as you will to a natural belay wherever you like.

3. 30m (4th class) Up as you will to the top.

Optional third pitch is 4th class. Fixed anchor above second pitch.

Belay from natural anchors.

Alternative first pitch to the remaining 2 pitches of Haystack.

Belay from fixed anchors.

Fixed anchor above first pitch. Natural anchors for remaining pitches.

In the center of East Wall is an obvious arch, rising up from the base of the cliff and curving rightwards. East Crack goes up the 2nd crack line right of the right-end of the arch.

1. 5.7, 160ft. Climb the crack, past a bulge and then upwards until a ledge/stance appears up and left of the crack. Belay. (small gear)

2. 5.8, 120ft. Step back right from the belay to the crack, and follow the left crack line upwards at the large flakes. Pull over two or three bulges (5.8 cruxes), then up the crack a bit further, then move right to the ledge system where this route, "Bear's Reach" and "East Wall" converge. Belay high and left on the shared ledge, if there's crowding (common).

3. 5.7 (crux only), 120ft. Step right from the belay and head up the obviously highly-trafficed and a bit polished crack. Pull the 5.7 crux roof, and then reach the 3rd class ledge. Place a piece (to protect the 2nd) then traverse right until you find a comfortable belay. Generally better to belay on the ledge, rather than over the top. to ease communication and rope drag.

When looking at the East Wall, this is the obvious, nearly straight up and down, bottom-to-top crack line. When you see it, you know it. Climb the crack. Keep climbing it.

This is a 2-pitch climb. You will need a 60 meter rope.

The first pitch of this climb begins with an obvious crack heading up and slightly right. The crack breaks into two about 100 feet up, take the right crack. Shortly after the split, it becomes impossible to find gear placement, but don't worry, you run up this to an 8' wide by 30' long shelf which serves as your belay station.

On the second pitch, located on the far left side (looking at the face) of the shelf, the climbing starts easy and turns into a not so pleasant offwidth crack that about half your body fits into. Although you can't place gear through this section, its a secure climb. Once past this, its a run-up to the top where you can belay off of a tree.

Thin crack traverses right into East Corner.

A classic line offering a little bit of everything.

1. 30m (5.6) Up the nice slab following two diagonal seams (exceptionally thin gear - this would be a bold lead) to a bolted rap anchor. Can be skipped or TRed via a 4th class corner system up to the right.

2. 15m (5.6) Nice slab past 3 bolts, then step right beneath the precarious perched blocks to a bolted rap anchor.

3. 15m (5.2) Up the wide corner then left (watch out for a large loose flake) to the main corner (natural anchor) just near a small tree.

4. 55m (5.7) The money pitch - follow the awesome narrow corner past several overlaps to a bolted rap anchor. Can descend from here with double ropes (recommended).

5. 30m (5.7) Up and right past the obvious "fang" of rock, through several overlaps and past a number of death blocks, to the top. Walk off.

The 5th pitch is dangerous and not recommended - best to abseil off after P4.

Direct variant to pitch 3 and part of pitch 4 of 'It's Better with Bacon'.

1. 35m (5.8) As for pitch 3, but instead of stepping left, continue straight up the sustained slab past 3 bolts to a large overlap. Over this (crux), passing one more bolt to hanging belay / rap anchor.

2. 35m (5.8) Continue up the reachy slab to a bolt, then step left below the next overlap to rejoin 'It's Better with Bacon' P4.

Sustained quality climbing, and solid at the grade. Gear plus 2 bolts to a double bolt lower off.

Old slings to rappel down at the top but you can continue up on third class terrain and walk off to the right.

left-most obvious low-angle crack line.

Amazing thin crack and steep face climbing. One of the best climbs at the leap. Led with one fall in 2005 before was shut down by the snow. Car Accident stopped me from ever finishing the route. Great First accent for the inspired.