Middle Spire Guide

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Hard Landin' Brandon Thomas Ward Pavel Burov Bob Swanson ben reardon Joseph Timothy Myers Jeff Neri Robert James Kuntz David Walker

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Middle Spire 21 routes in Cliff



Mostly Trad climbing

Long/Lat: -120.244103, 38.787493


Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

inherited from Phantom Spires

1.1. North and West Side 15 routes in Sector

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Long/Lat: -120.244173, 38.787563

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cockabooty

FFA: unknown

5.7 Trad 70ft
2 The Prow

FFA: unknown

5.10b Sport 30ft, 4
3 Over Easy

FFA: George Connor & Robert Oravetz

5.7 Mixed 70ft, 1
4 Hard Up

FFA: Eric Barrett & David Stam, 1977

5.9 Trad 70ft
5 Slow Dancer

FFA: Eric Barrett & et al., 1978

5.9 Mixed 70ft, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Penny Candy

FFA: Joel Ager & Clint Cummins, 1990

5.10a Sport 40ft, 3
7 Leaner and Meaner

FFA: unknown

5.11b Trad 60ft
8 Lean and Mean

FFA: Bob Grow & Joel Moore, 1976

5.9 Trad 60ft
9 Corn Flakes

FFA: Robert Oravetz, Eric Barrett & Dave Stam, 1978

5.9 Trad 60ft
10 Unnamed 5.12 5.12 Mixed 40ft, 4
11 Fancy Dancin'

FFA: Robert Oravetz & Eric Barrett, 1978

5.10b Trad 70ft
12 Unnamed 5.8

FFA: unknown

5.6 Trad 40ft
13 Harding's Other Chimney

FFA: Warren Harding & John Ohrenschall, 1954

5.7 Trad 70ft
14 Candy Ass

FFA: Dave Hatchett & Tom Burt, 1988

5.10d Sport 70ft, 7
15 Candyland

FFA: Eric Barrett, John Bowlin & Robert Oravetz, 1977

5.10c Trad 70ft

1.2. East Side 6 routes in Sector

All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: -120.244040, 38.787443

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Clam

FFA: unknown

5.8 R Trad
2 Anal Sex

FFA: Bill Serniuk, 1988

5.9 X Trad 130ft, 2
3 Regular Route

FFA: unknown

5.8 Trad 130ft, 2
4 Rain Song

FFA: David Babich, 1980

5.7 R Mixed 90ft, 1
5 Tyro's Test Piece

FFA: unknown

5.5 Trad 60ft
6 Chainsaw Willie

FFA: David Babich, 1982

5.8 R Mixed 130ft, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.5 Tyro's Test Piece Trad 60ft 1.2. East Side
5.6 Unnamed 5.8 Trad 40ft 1.1. North and West Side
5.7 Cockabooty Trad 70ft 1.1. North and West Side
Harding's Other Chimney Trad 70ft 1.1. North and West Side
Over Easy Mixed 70ft, 1 1.1. North and West Side
Rain Song Mixed 90ft, 1 1.2. East Side
5.8 Chainsaw Willie Mixed 130ft, 1 1.2. East Side
Regular Route Trad 130ft, 2 1.2. East Side
The Clam Trad 1.2. East Side
5.9 Corn Flakes Trad 60ft 1.1. North and West Side
Hard Up Trad 70ft 1.1. North and West Side
Lean and Mean Trad 60ft 1.1. North and West Side
Slow Dancer Mixed 70ft, 2 1.1. North and West Side
Anal Sex Trad 130ft, 2 1.2. East Side
5.10a Penny Candy Sport 40ft, 3 1.1. North and West Side
5.10b Fancy Dancin' Trad 70ft 1.1. North and West Side
The Prow Sport 30ft, 4 1.1. North and West Side
5.10c Candyland Trad 70ft 1.1. North and West Side
5.10d Candy Ass Sport 70ft, 7 1.1. North and West Side
5.11b Leaner and Meaner Trad 60ft 1.1. North and West Side
5.12 Unnamed 5.12 Mixed 40ft, 4 1.1. North and West Side