Cliff Guide for Sugarloaf

Harder Than It Used to Be

Thin face climbing up the right side of the arête to the top anchor shared with P1 of 'Bolee Gold'.

FFA: John Scott,

Bolee Gold

To reach the base of the route, climb the ramp at the base of the south face and look for the bolts.

1. 50 ft (5.10b) Sustained and well-protected sport climbing leads up the left-traversing line of bolts on small edges and knobs. 7 bolts.

2. 50 ft (5.10c) Reachy face climbing up small knobs and edges. 4 bolts.

3. 60 ft (5.6) Easy climbing over interesting rock. Pro: knob tie-offs and cams 0.75" to 3".

4. 100 ft (5.8 R) Meandering face climbing to the summit. Runout 5.7 slab moves 20' above the last bolt may be the psychological crux. 3 bolts. Pro: questionable knob tie-offs, 3" cam.

Don't even think of grabbing those dangerously loose flakes near the arête on P3 and P4. With so many hanging belays, it may be no surprise that this route is seldom climbed in 4 pitches.

Suggested variations:

• Finish the first pitch at the higher new-looking optional 2-bolt anchor (just hangers with no option to rappel) offering a comfortable belay stance on a ledge. Combine the rest of P2 and P3 for a total of three pitches.
• With a 70m rope, stop at the 2-bolt anchor above the comfy ledge. The rest of route (5.10c) can be combined into a single über-pitch.
• With a 60m rope, climb the route in two long pitches by combining P1 + P2 (150 ft) and P3 + P4 (190 ft). Set up the first hanging belay at the 3-bolt anchor with two rusted leeper hangers and one blessedly bomber-looking new bolt.

Descent options:

• Rappel back down the south face with a 60m rope.
• Rappel down the north side of the summit, climb the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney', then walk off north.

FFA: Gary Anderson, Jay Smith, Rick Sumner, 1977

Hooker's Haven

Finger crack to the overhanging arch, with two bolts leading to a chain top anchor. Pro to 3".

FA: Jim Orey, Charlie Jones, 1971

FFA: Mark Hudon, Max Jones, 1978

The Fang / Left Side of the Fang

Finger cracks to a tightening chimney. Summit the fang at the bolted top anchor and rap off. Pro to 3".

FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 1971

Bird Man

Thin and difficult to protect crack climbing leads to challenging and sustained bolted face climbing. Rap off with 2 ropes.

FFA: unknown,

Talking Heads

Climb the thin flake shared with 'Bird Man'[20650141, then move right for delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the fang. Pro 0.4" to 0.6".

FFA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1982

Climb up the right side of The Fang, then traverse out left onto the face. Tie off knobs on your way to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Talking Heads'.

Variation (5.10d): Starting at the tree, follow the finger crack up the middle of the face of The Fang before moving onto the knobs above.

Top-rope this route after leading P1 of 'Harding's Chimney'. Pro to 1" with slings for tie-offs.

FFA: Greg Dexter, Steve Miller, 1976

South Summit Bolt Ladder

Short pitch from the notch of 'Harding's Chimney' to the summit of the south face. Pull on bolts to turn the 5.10 mantle into A0.

FFA: Warren Harding,

Harding's Chimney

1. 80 ft (5.3) Climb the ramp up the right side of The Fang to roof at the base of the chimney.

2. 70 ft (5.8 R) Shuffle your way up the squeeze chimney to the next belay. Unless you're racking #4 Big Bros, get your head set for a 50 ft runout.

3. 150 ft (5.7) Face climbing up and left takes you to a narrow gully ending in the South Notch.

4. 140 ft (5.7) (Same last pitch as 'Scheister'.) Starting from the north side of the notch, climb the arch past one bolt and continue up a narrow gully to a tunnel. Pass through the tunnel to the west side, where several 4th class and 5.easy variations lead to the Middle Summit.

Walk off descent.

Variations:

• (5.10a) Once you reach the notch at the top of P3, take a brief detour up the 'South Summit Bolt Ladder' for an additional summit.
• (5.8) Instead passing through the tunnel on P4, climb up and right past the bolt on the east face to stem your way to the summit.

Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it.

FFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954

The Gallows Pole / Gallows Pole

Original variation. Climb 20 ft up 'Harding's Chimney' before traversing out right to some flakes at the 4th bolt. Continue up sustained knob climbing and smearing to the 2-bolt top anchor. Pro: huge pro for the chimney if you have it.

FFA: Paul Crawford, Rick Van Horn, 1982

Gallows Pole Direct

The direct start variation demands challenging, technical climbing past the first 3 bolts before moving left to join the original route at the flakes before the 4th bolt.

FFA: Joel Moore,

Beast of Burden

This bolted line up the beautiful arête left of 'Scheister'[] starts with perplexing and powerful moves before before easing into sustained 5.10 climbing up the arête to the 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Chris Clifford, et al., 1984

Climb the first 2 bolts of 'Beast of Burden', then traverse left. Face climbing on knobs takes you past 8 more bolts and 2 knob tie offs to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Gallows Pole'. Pro: slings for knobs tie-offs.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2006

Scheister

Starts up the ramp left of 'Crushed Velvet' and 'Farley'.

1. 140 ft (5.7) Stem the chimney, reaching in deep to place gear, until it narrows to a squeeze chimney, then pull out onto the face for the crux. Continue up and right to the standing belay on a large ledge.

2. 160 ft (5.7) Excellent lieback and jamming leads up dihedrals to the South Notch.

3. 140 ft (5.7) Finish on the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney'.

Walk off descent.

Variations:

• Extend P1 to the bolted belay atop P2 of 'Crushed Velvet'.
• See 'Harding's Chimney' for variations after the 2nd pitch.

FFA: unknown,

Blue Velvet

The last two pitches are seldom climbed. The start is located up the ramp at the base of the face between 'Scheister' and 'Farley'.

1. 100 ft (5.10c) Face climbing with careful footwork up small edges and knobs. 9 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor. You can rap or top-rope with a 60m rope (barely).

2. 80 ft (5.10d R) Runout 5.8 face climbing leads to better protected face moves at the crux. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor. Can be top-roped instead by climbing 'Scheister'.

3. 140 ft (5.10c R) Runout 5.8 and 5.9 moves with better protected face moves before and after the aête. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor. Pro 1" to 2".

After P3, finish with the last 20 feet of 'Harding's Chimney' and walk off to descend.

FFA: Will Cottrell,

Crushed Velvet

Start on the first 20-30 ft of 'Farley' then continue straight up to the bolted line up the face.

Descent options:

• Traverse right to summit on 'Farley' and walk off.
• Rappel to the top of P1 on 'Blue Velvet'.
• Rappel 100 ft to the top of 'Opus 7'. Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Aidan McGuire, Scott Bye, 1998

Climb up the first 20 ft of 'Farley', then head up and left to clip the first bolt (which is also the 5th bolt of 'Blue Velvet'). Continue up and right past two knobs for 75 ft to the second bolt (which is also shared with 'Crushed Velvet'). Continue up the face for another 75 ft to a horizontal crack, then head to the top.

FFA: Bill Todd?,

Farley

The last two pitches are seldom climbed.

1. 80 ft (5.9) Perfect, sustained liebacking up the consistent flake to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Opus 7'.

2. 120 ft? Follow the chimney up left to a corner leading to a belay stance.

3. 120 ft? Follow the corner up onto exposed runout face climbing up the Knobby Wall protected only by a couple of bolts.

Variations:

• If continuing past the first pitch, skip the bolted top anchor and build an anchor up in the chimney for a more comfortable belay stance.

• The left side of the Knobbly Wall is 5.8R. The right side of the Knobbly Wall is 5.7 and also runout.

  Pro: 0.5" to 4" with doubles in the larger sizes.

FFA: Jim Orey, 1971

FFA: Eric Beck, Steve Roper, 1971

Opus 7

1. 60 ft (5.11d R) Sustained climbing on thin features up a slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor shared with P1 of 'Farley'.

2. Runout face climbing up to Silver Ledge. Rarely climbed.

FFA: Paul Crawford, Jay Smith, 1987

The Grand Illusion

Gaze in awe at this severely overhanging crack requiring difficult stemming and powerful finger locks. This used to be the last aid pitch of 'The Fracture' until it was freed in 1979 to become the second recorded 5.13. Thin pro to 1.5".

FA: Ken Edsberg, Jack Davidson, 1963

FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1979

FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1988

The Mini Illusion

Hand crack up to sustained overhanging thin finger crack with fixed draws. The hand crack protects with a 2.5" cam.

Taurus

1. 80 ft (5.11b) Thin finger crack to sustained liebacking and a mantel to the 2-bolt chain anchor. Pro to 2".

2. Runout face climbing up and left of Silver Ledge. Seldom climbed.

P2 variation: 'Lady Luck'.

FFA: Mark Hudon, Max Jones, 1976

Runout face climbing above 'Taurus' heads straight up past 1 or 2 bolts. Topo is approximate.

FFA: Luke Freeman, Bill Todd, 1976

Thin face climbing past bolts to finish at the top anchor for either P1 of 'The Fracture' or 'Taurus'.

FFA: Petch, 2005

The Fracture

1. 80 ft (5.10d) Lieback crack to perfect sustained finger crack. Pro to 1.5".

2. 120 ft (5.7) Dangerous loose flakes lead to the base of 'Grand Illusion'. Seldom climbed.

FFA: unknown,

Telesis

Tenuous face climbing up thin features to a 2-bolt top anchor. Runout near the end on 5.9 terrain. Top-rope this route by first leading 'Dominion'.

FFA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1987

Dominion

Hand jams up a thin crack lead to liebacking and stemming. Finish the pitch on slabs and flakes to the bolted top anchor of your choice. Pro to 2".

Descent options:

• From the 2-bolt anchor on the left: rappel to the top anchor for 'Telesis'.
• From the 2-bolt anchor on the right: rappel to the ground with a 60m rope.

FFA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey, 1972

Captain Fingers

Lock and lieback up the thin finger crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. Tricky pro before the crux. Pro: brass nuts, offset nuts, and cams to 3.5", with doubles in the smaller sizes.

Top-rope this route by leading 'Dominion'.

Descend with a 70m rope from the rappel station to the right of the top anchor.

FA: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks, 1970

FFA: Mark Hudon, Max Jones, 1979

1. 110 ft (5.7) Climb the obvious corner ramp and chimney right of 'Captain Fingers' to a belay below the roof.

2. 100 ft? (5.7) Continue up and right through the chimney past some roofs to the North Notch.

Pro to 3". Walk of descent. Loose chockstones have resulted in injury on this blocky, marginal route. Use caution.

FFA: unknown,

Morticia

Start in the corner with 'Lurch' and traverse left around the roof to follow the bolts up the face. A 60m rope is just long enough for top-roping. Pro to 2.5".

FFA: Aidan McGuire, Don Bradley, 2000

Lurch

1. 90 ft (5.8 R) Start in the corner with 'Morticia', then traverse around the roof to the right and up past 1 bolt to the 2-bolt chain anchor.

2. 110 ft? (5.6 R) Runout knobs and mossy slab to a natural top anchor in a crack. P1 can be top-roped with a 60m rope. Pro to 2", slings for knob tie-offs. Walk off descent.

FFA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971

Located right of 'Lurch', starts at the chains on the East Terrace. Face climbing past thin cracks and a horizontal to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Monkey Flower' and 'The Wanker'. Pro to 2". Phototopo is approximate.

FFA: Jerry Klatt, 2011

Start at the chains on the East Terrace to the right of 'Swallow's Tail', then climb the face up and right past small cracks and knob tie-offs to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail' and 'The Wanker'. Pro: small to medium gear, slings for tie-offs. Phototopo is approximate.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011

Start to the right of 'Monkey Flower' in the left-facing dihedral. Climb up to the crack and join 'Monkey Flower' to finish at the 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail' and 'Monkey Flower'. Pro: standard rack. Phototopo is approximate.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011

Bolted knobby route to the top of the pale egg-shaped boulder right of 'Lurch'. Phototopo is approximate.

1. Follow cracks up low angle slab to a bolted top anchor. Rappel here, or...

2. ... follow easy slab climbing and walk off from the top.

Pro to 3". Bolt count is approximate.

Ziplock

This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold' and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1".

FFA: Aidan McGuire, John Robinson, 2001

Happy Face

A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, Jerry Klatt, 2001

Hyperspace

1. 5.10b (50 ft) Sustained liebacking and underclinging up a fragile flake.

2. 5.7 R (150 ft) Runout knobby face climbing. Seldom climbed.

Pro to 1.5".

FFA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith, 1977

Variation of 'Hyperspace'.

Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'.

1. 70 ft? (5.11a) Exit the 'West Chimney' to the right after 40 ft of climbing, looking for the first bolt overhead. Continue up, crossing 'Pan Dulce' and pulling over a bulge and headwall to the bolted anchor. 5 bolts.

2. 50 ft? (5.11b) Continue up the slab to the knobby headwall. Follow the arête to the bolted top anchor. Can be led a in a single pitch or top-roped with a 70m rope. Pro: 1 or 2 cams.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011

The Man Who Fell to Earth

Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave', then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start.

FFA: Paul Crawford, Dan Osman,

Start just left of 'Pony Express'. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express' to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'. Pro to 3".

FFA: Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989

Pony Express

1. 90 ft (5.8) Perfect jamming and liebacking up the flake and left-facing dihedral to a 2-bolt anchor.

2. 110 ft (5.9) Easy climbing to an offwidth crack over a bulge, followed by 3rd class slabs to the summit.

Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Dick Long,

FFA: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks, 1970

Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'. Pro to 4".

FFA: Dave Kennedy, Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989

Cry Uncle

Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express' first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts.

FA: Bill Todd, 1977

FFA: Tom Herbert, Paul Crawford, 1987

Expresso

From the top of P1 of 'Pony Express', continue left up the line of bolts. Rappel back to the top of 'Pony Express' to descend.

FFA: Joel Moore,

1. (5.5) Climb up the obvious chimney. At the top of the pitch, traverse left to avoid the roof.

2. (5.8) Dirty face climbing to the summit.

FFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1953

TM's Deviation

1. (5.8) Start up 'West Chimney' for the first 80 ft, then exit the chimney and traverse to the right to the base of a left-facing corner. Belay in the alcove.

2. (5.10a) Climb the hand crack in the corner to a squeeze chimney and a liebacking finger crack followed by easy slabs to the top.

FFA: TM Herbert, Bruce Cooke, 1968

Pan Dulce

1. Start up 'West Chimney' for 30ft or so before exiting right past two bolts. Travers right past the first belay anchor for 'Grand Delusion'[], then continue right to the next bolted belay anchor. 2 bolts.

2. Well-protected blunt arête.

3. Follow cracks and knobs to finish up an arête. Several bolts.

Pro to 2".

Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'.

FFA: Dan Patitucci, Joel Moore, 1990

Grand Delusion

A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1".

Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce' first.

FFA: Chris Clifford,

Fat Merchant Crack / Fat Merchant's Crack

1. (5.10b X) Stuff yourself deep into the chimney and slither up 50 ft to the scary unprotected offwidth crux. Look for the manky hidden piton, and follow the narrowing, protectable crack up to the belay ledge.

2. (5.7 R) Follow the corner to easy runout face climbing to the South Notch. Finish with the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney' and a walk-off descent.

Huge pro 5" to 12".

FFA: TM Herbert, Royal robbins, 1967

Blind Faith / Blindfaith

Start at the belay anchor atop P1 of 'Fat Merchant Crack'. Follow the left-leaning corner up to the roof, then traverse right to finish with P3 of 'Bolee Gold'.

A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux.

FFA: Jim Orey, John Bowlin, Charley Jones, 1973

The Ghost in the Machine

1. (5.11) Follow a left-leaning crack to face climbing past bolts. Traverse right to the 2-bolt anchor. 4 bolts.

2. (5.11a) Well-protected face climbing past the low crux eases with slab climbing to the 2-bolt anchor. 7 bolts.

3. (5.10c R) Follows the cracks up, pull the bulge, and wander up the runout 5.10a face to the 2-bolt anchor. 2 bolts.

4. (5.12a) Difficult climbing past bolts to a long left traverse to the 2-bolt top anchor. Double ropes recommend. 7 bolts.

Descend with 60m rope in 3 rappels past top anchors for 'Pan Dulce' and 'Grand Delusion'.

Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs.

FFA: Ed Drummond, Mark Robinson, 1984

Sugar Daddy

1. (5.11c) Start on 'Fat Merchant Crack'[], then exit the chimney right to the first of a line of bolts up the stalactite. 6 bolts.

2. (5.12a) Thin face climbing up to join P2 of 'Ghost in the Machine'. Seldom climbed.

FFA: Joel Moore, 1992

Back in Black

Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium' chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'.

FFA: Jay Smith, Karl McConachie, 1986

Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts.

FFA: Joel Moore, T. Phillips, 1977

The Podium

Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'. Descend by rappelling from the tree.

Pro to 2".