A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
|1||Yet Another Squeeze Job||5.10|
|3||Lost in the Fog||5.9 A2|
Long/Lat: -120.308400, 38.776693
A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, Jerry Klatt, 2001
Pro to 1.5".
FFA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith, 1977
Trumpled under Foot
Variation of 'Hyperspace'.
Twist and Shout
Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts.
FFA: Joel Moore, T. Phillips, 1977
Back in Black
Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium' chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'.
FFA: Jay Smith, Karl McConachie, 1986
The Man Who Fell to Earth
Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave', then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start.
FFA: Paul Crawford, Dan Osman
Only the Young Die Brave
Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'. Pro to 4".
FFA: Dave Kennedy, Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989
Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'. Descend by rappelling from the tree.
Under the Spreading Atrophy
Start just left of 'Pony Express'. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express' to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'. Pro to 3".
FFA: Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5".
FFA: Dick Long
FFA: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks, 1970
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express' first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts.
FA: Bill Todd, 1977
FFA: Tom Herbert, Paul Crawford, 1987
FFA: Joel Moore
Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011
FFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1953
FFA: TM Herbert, Bruce Cooke, 1968
Pro to 2".
Pro to 2".
Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'.
FFA: Dan Patitucci, Joel Moore, 1990
A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1".
Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce' first.
FFA: Chris Clifford
Fat Merchant Crack / Fat Merchant's Crack
Huge pro 5" to 12".
FFA: TM Herbert, Royal robbins, 1967
Blind Faith / Blindfaith
A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux.
FFA: Jim Orey, John Bowlin, Charley Jones, 1973
FFA: Joel Moore, 1992
The Ghost in the Machine
Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs.
FFA: Ed Drummond, Mark Robinson, 1984
This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold' and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1".
FFA: Aidan McGuire, John Robinson, 2001
Long/Lat: -120.308166, 38.776028
Harder Than It Used to Be
Thin face climbing up the right side of the arête to the top anchor shared with P1 of 'Bolee Gold'.
FFA: John Scott
To reach the base of the route, climb the ramp at the base of the south face and look for the bolts.
Don't even think of grabbing those dangerously loose flakes near the arête on P3 and P4. With so many hanging belays, it may be no surprise that this route is seldom climbed in 4 pitches.
FFA: Gary Anderson, Jay Smith, Rick Sumner, 1977
Finger crack to the overhanging arch, with two bolts leading to a chain top anchor. Pro to 3".
FA: Jim Orey, Charlie Jones, 1971
FFA: Mark Hudon, Max Jones, 1978
The Fang / Left Side of the Fang
Finger cracks to a tightening chimney. Summit the fang at the bolted top anchor and rap off. Pro to 3".
FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 1971
Thin and difficult to protect crack climbing leads to challenging and sustained bolted face climbing. Rap off with 2 ropes.
Climb the thin flake shared with 'Bird Man'[20650141, then move right for delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the fang. Pro 0.4" to 0.6".
FFA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1982
The Stone / Stone
Variation (5.10d): Starting at the tree, follow the finger crack up the middle of the face of The Fang before moving onto the knobs above.
Top-rope this route after leading P1 of 'Harding's Chimney'. Pro to 1" with slings for tie-offs.
FFA: Greg Dexter, Steve Miller, 1976
Trad, Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: -120.308047, 38.776566
Walk off descent.
Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it.
FFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954
South Summit Bolt Ladder
Short pitch from the notch of 'Harding's Chimney' to the summit of the south face. Pull on bolts to turn the 5.10 mantle into A0.
FFA: Warren Harding
The Gallows Pole / Gallows Pole
Original variation. Climb 20 ft up 'Harding's Chimney' before traversing out right to some flakes at the 4th bolt. Continue up sustained knob climbing and smearing to the 2-bolt top anchor. Pro: huge pro for the chimney if you have it.
FFA: Paul Crawford, Rick Van Horn, 1982
Gallows Pole Direct
The direct start variation demands challenging, technical climbing past the first 3 bolts before moving left to join the original route at the flakes before the 4th bolt.
FFA: Joel Moore
Beast of Burden
This bolted line up the beautiful arête left of 'Scheister' starts with perplexing and powerful moves before before easing into sustained 5.10 climbing up the arête to the 2-bolt top anchor.
FFA: Chris Clifford, et al., 1984
Climb the first 2 bolts of 'Beast of Burden', then traverse left. Face climbing on knobs takes you past 8 more bolts and 2 knob tie offs to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Gallows Pole'. Pro: slings for knobs tie-offs.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2006
|7||Over the Edge||5.8 R|
Walk off descent.
After P3, finish with the last 20 feet of 'Harding's Chimney' and walk off to descend.
FFA: Will Cottrell
Start on the first 20-30 ft of 'Farley' then continue straight up to the bolted line up the face.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, Scott Bye, 1998
Climb up the first 20 ft of 'Farley', then head up and left to clip the first bolt (which is also the 5th bolt of 'Blue Velvet'). Continue up and right past two knobs for 75 ft to the second bolt (which is also shared with 'Crushed Velvet'). Continue up the face for another 75 ft to a horizontal crack, then head to the top.
FFA: Bill Todd?
The last two pitches are seldom climbed.
FFA: Jim Orey, 1971
FFA: Eric Beck, Steve Roper, 1971
FFA: Paul Crawford, Jay Smith, 1987
The Grand Illusion
Gaze in awe at this severely overhanging crack requiring difficult stemming and powerful finger locks. This used to be the last aid pitch of 'The Fracture' until it was freed in 1979 to become the second recorded 5.13. Thin pro to 1.5".
FA: Ken Edsberg, Jack Davidson, 1963
FFA: Antony Yaniro, 1979
FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1988
The Mini Illusion
Hand crack up to sustained overhanging thin finger crack with fixed draws. The hand crack protects with a 2.5" cam.
P2 variation: 'Lady Luck'.
FFA: Mark Hudon, Max Jones, 1976
Runout face climbing above 'Taurus' heads straight up past 1 or 2 bolts. Topo is approximate.
FFA: Luke Freeman, Bill Todd, 1976
Pinch a Loaf
FFA: Petch, 2005
Tenuous face climbing up thin features to a 2-bolt top anchor. Runout near the end on 5.9 terrain. Top-rope this route by first leading 'Dominion'.
FFA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1987
Hand jams up a thin crack lead to liebacking and stemming. Finish the pitch on slabs and flakes to the bolted top anchor of your choice. Pro to 2".
FFA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey, 1972
Lock and lieback up the thin finger crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. Tricky pro before the crux. Pro: brass nuts, offset nuts, and cams to 3.5", with doubles in the smaller sizes.
Top-rope this route by leading 'Dominion'.
Descend with a 70m rope from the rappel station to the right of the top anchor.
FA: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks, 1970
FFA: Mark Hudon, Max Jones, 1979
Pro to 3". Walk of descent. Loose chockstones have resulted in injury on this blocky, marginal route. Use caution.
Start in the corner with 'Lurch' and traverse left around the roof to follow the bolts up the face. A 60m rope is just long enough for top-roping. Pro to 2.5".
FFA: Aidan McGuire, Don Bradley, 2000
FFA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971
Located right of 'Lurch', starts at the chains on the East Terrace. Face climbing past thin cracks and a horizontal to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Monkey Flower' and 'The Wanker'. Pro to 2". Phototopo is approximate.
FFA: Jerry Klatt, 2011
Start at the chains on the East Terrace to the right of 'Swallow's Tail', then climb the face up and right past small cracks and knob tie-offs to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail' and 'The Wanker'. Pro: small to medium gear, slings for tie-offs. Phototopo is approximate.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011
Start to the right of 'Monkey Flower' in the left-facing dihedral. Climb up to the crack and join 'Monkey Flower' to finish at the 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail' and 'Monkey Flower'. Pro: standard rack. Phototopo is approximate.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011
Bolted knobby route to the top of the pale egg-shaped boulder right of 'Lurch'. Phototopo is approximate.
Pro to 3". Bolt count is approximate.