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Table of contents

1. West Face 24 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -120.308400, 38.776693

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crack Face 5.9 Trad
2 * Happy Face

A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, Jerry Klatt, 2001

5.10c Mixed 90ft, 7
3 *** Hyperspace
  1. 5.10b (50 ft) Sustained liebacking and underclinging up a fragile flake.

  2. 5.7 R (150 ft) Runout knobby face climbing. Seldom climbed.

Pro to 1.5".

FFA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith, 1977

5.10b Trad 50ft
4 Trumpled under Foot

Variation of 'Hyperspace'.

5.10 Top rope 50ft
5 Twist and Shout

Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts.

FFA: Joel Moore, T. Phillips, 1977

5.10a PG13 Mixed 180ft, 2
6 * Back in Black

Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium' chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'.

FFA: Jay Smith, Karl McConachie, 1986

5.11d R Mixed 4
7 * The Man Who Fell to Earth

Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave', then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start.

FFA: Paul Crawford, Dan Osman

5.11b Mixed 80ft, 6
8 Only the Young Die Brave

Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'. Pro to 4".

FFA: Dave Kennedy, Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989

5.11c Mixed 70ft, 5
9 ** The Podium

Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'. Descend by rappelling from the tree.

5.9 Trad 50ft
10 Under the Spreading Atrophy

Start just left of 'Pony Express'. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express' to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'. Pro to 3".

FFA: Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989

5.11b Mixed 90ft, 5
11 * Pony Express
  1. 90 ft (5.8) Perfect jamming and liebacking up the flake and left-facing dihedral to a 2-bolt anchor.

  2. 110 ft (5.9) Easy climbing to an offwidth crack over a bulge, followed by 3rd class slabs to the summit.

Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Dick Long

FFA: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks, 1970

5.9 Trad 200ft 2
12 * Cry Uncle

Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express' first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts.

FA: Bill Todd, 1977

FFA: Tom Herbert, Paul Crawford, 1987

5.12a R Mixed 70ft, 3
13 * Expresso

From the top of P1 of 'Pony Express', continue left up the line of bolts. Rappel back to the top of 'Pony Express' to descend.

FFA: Joel Moore

5.11a Sport 5
14 Mackerel Sky

Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'.

  1. 70 ft? (5.11a) Exit the 'West Chimney' to the right after 40 ft of climbing, looking for the first bolt overhead. Continue up, crossing 'Pan Dulce' and pulling over a bulge and headwall to the bolted anchor. 5 bolts.

  2. 50 ft? (5.11b) Continue up the slab to the knobby headwall. Follow the arête to the bolted top anchor. Can be led a in a single pitch or top-roped with a 70m rope. Pro: 1 or 2 cams.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011

5.11b Mixed 120ft 2, 10
15 West Chimney
  1. (5.5) Climb up the obvious chimney. At the top of the pitch, traverse left to avoid the roof.

  2. (5.8) Dirty face climbing to the summit.

FFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1953

5.8 Trad 300ft 2
16 ** TM's Deviation
  1. (5.8) Start up 'West Chimney' for the first 80 ft, then exit the chimney and traverse to the right to the base of a left-facing corner. Belay in the alcove.

  2. (5.10a) Climb the hand crack in the corner to a squeeze chimney and a liebacking finger crack followed by easy slabs to the top.

FFA: TM Herbert, Bruce Cooke, 1968

5.10a Trad 300ft 2
17 Hard Right

Pro to 2".

5.10c Trad
18 ** Pan Dulce
  1. Start up 'West Chimney' for 30ft or so before exiting right past two bolts. Travers right past the first belay anchor for 'Grand Delusion'[], then continue right to the next bolted belay anchor. 2 bolts.

  2. Well-protected blunt arête.

  3. Follow cracks and knobs to finish up an arête. Several bolts.

Pro to 2".

Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'.

FFA: Dan Patitucci, Joel Moore, 1990

5.10d Mixed 200ft 3, 2
19 ** Grand Delusion

A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1".

Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce' first.

FFA: Chris Clifford

5.12d Mixed 2
20 ** Fat Merchant Crack / Fat Merchant's Crack
  1. (5.10b X) Stuff yourself deep into the chimney and slither up 50 ft to the scary unprotected offwidth crux. Look for the manky hidden piton, and follow the narrowing, protectable crack up to the belay ledge.

  2. (5.7 R) Follow the corner to easy runout face climbing to the South Notch. Finish with the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney' and a walk-off descent.

Huge pro 5" to 12".

FFA: TM Herbert, Royal robbins, 1967

5.10b X Trad 200ft 2
21 * Blind Faith / Blindfaith

Start at the belay anchor atop P1 of 'Fat Merchant Crack'. Follow the left-leaning corner up to the roof, then traverse right to finish with P3 of 'Bolee Gold'.

A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux.

FFA: Jim Orey, John Bowlin, Charley Jones, 1973

5.9 Trad
22 ** Sugar Daddy
  1. (5.11c) Start on 'Fat Merchant Crack'[], then exit the chimney right to the first of a line of bolts up the stalactite. 6 bolts.

  2. (5.12a) Thin face climbing up to join P2 of 'Ghost in the Machine'. Seldom climbed.

FFA: Joel Moore, 1992

5.12a Mixed 2 6
23 ** The Ghost in the Machine
  1. (5.11) Follow a left-leaning crack to face climbing past bolts. Traverse right to the 2-bolt anchor. 4 bolts.

  2. (5.11a) Well-protected face climbing past the low crux eases with slab climbing to the 2-bolt anchor. 7 bolts.

  3. (5.10c R) Follows the cracks up, pull the bulge, and wander up the runout 5.10a face to the 2-bolt anchor. 2 bolts.

  4. (5.12a) Difficult climbing past bolts to a long left traverse to the 2-bolt top anchor. Double ropes recommend. 7 bolts.

Descend with 60m rope in 3 rappels past top anchors for 'Pan Dulce' and 'Grand Delusion'.

Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs.

FFA: Ed Drummond, Mark Robinson, 1984

5.12a R Mixed 250ft 4, 20
24 * Ziplock

This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold' and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1".

FFA: Aidan McGuire, John Robinson, 2001

5.11d Trad 90ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.8 West Chimney Trad 300ft 2
5.9 * Blind Faith Trad
Crack Face Trad
* Pony Express Trad 200ft 2
** The Podium Trad 50ft
5.10a ** TM's Deviation Trad 300ft 2
Twist and Shout Mixed 180ft, 2
5.10b ** Fat Merchant Crack Trad 200ft 2
*** Hyperspace Trad 50ft
5.10c * Happy Face Mixed 90ft, 7
Hard Right Trad
5.10 Trumpled under Foot Top rope 50ft
5.10d ** Pan Dulce Mixed 200ft 3, 2
5.11a * Expresso Sport 5
5.11b Mackerel Sky Mixed 120ft 2, 10
* The Man Who Fell to Earth Mixed 80ft, 6
Under the Spreading Atrophy Mixed 90ft, 5
5.11c Only the Young Die Brave Mixed 70ft, 5
5.11d * Back in Black Mixed 4
* Ziplock Trad 90ft
5.12a * Cry Uncle Mixed 70ft, 3
** Sugar Daddy Mixed 2 6
5.12a R ** The Ghost in the Machine Mixed 250ft 4, 20
5.12d ** Grand Delusion Mixed 2