A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, Jerry Klatt, 2001
Pro to 1.5".
FFA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith, 1977
Trumpled under Foot
Variation of 'Hyperspace'.
Twist and Shout
Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts.
FFA: Joel Moore, T. Phillips, 1977
Back in Black
Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium' chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'.
FFA: Jay Smith, Karl McConachie, 1986
The Man Who Fell to Earth
Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave', then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start.
FFA: Paul Crawford, Dan Osman
Only the Young Die Brave
Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'. Pro to 4".
FFA: Dave Kennedy, Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989
Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'. Descend by rappelling from the tree.
Under the Spreading Atrophy
Start just left of 'Pony Express'. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express' to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'. Pro to 3".
FFA: Will Chen, Mark Robinson, 1989
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5".
FFA: Dick Long
FFA: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks, 1970
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express' first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts.
FA: Bill Todd, 1977
FFA: Tom Herbert, Paul Crawford, 1987
FFA: Joel Moore
Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'.
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011
FFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1953
FFA: TM Herbert, Bruce Cooke, 1968
Pro to 2".
Pro to 2".
Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'.
FFA: Dan Patitucci, Joel Moore, 1990
A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1".
Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce' first.
FFA: Chris Clifford
Fat Merchant Crack / Fat Merchant's Crack
Huge pro 5" to 12".
FFA: TM Herbert, Royal robbins, 1967
Blind Faith / Blindfaith
A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux.
FFA: Jim Orey, John Bowlin, Charley Jones, 1973
FFA: Joel Moore, 1992
The Ghost in the Machine
Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs.
FFA: Ed Drummond, Mark Robinson, 1984
|5.12a R||4, 20250ft|
This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold' and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1".
FFA: Aidan McGuire, John Robinson, 2001
|Twist and Shout||2180ft,|
|5.10b||Fat Merchant Crack||2200ft|
|5.10||Trumpled under Foot||50ft|
|5.10d||Pan Dulce||3, 2200ft|
|5.11b||Mackerel Sky||2, 10120ft|
|The Man Who Fell to Earth||680ft,|
|Under the Spreading Atrophy||590ft,|
|5.11c||Only the Young Die Brave||570ft,|
|5.11d||Back in Black||4|
|Sugar Daddy||2 6|
|The Ghost in the Machine||4, 20250ft|