Pilot Mountain State Park


Mixture of sport, top-tope and trad routes, with a variety of face and overhung problems. Generally south facing. Climbers must register their intent in the main parking lot.


Drive up Pilot Knob Park Road and park in main parking lot. Short walk along Ledge Springs Trail, eventually turning left at sign that says "Three Bears Gully" to a steep descent to the walls. There are climbs left and right of the Three Bears Gully.

Gates to summit close at 845 PM.



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Grade Route

To the left of Mild Mannered Secretary (when facing wall). 3 RB to DRB anchor. Run out.

Right of Turkey Shoot (facing the wall). 3RB to DRB anchor

No feet start from large boulder. DRBs for anchor

Chimney to the right of Thin To Win. DRBs for anchors

Sometimes graded at 5.8. Can set up top rope anchors from the parking lot above.

Bolted with DRBs with top rope access from parking lot above

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