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Access issues inherited from Muir Valley

The land is owned by Friends of Muir Valley. Please fill out and submit a waiver before climbing in this area.

Ethic inherited from Muir Valley

  1. You must read and understand the documents .Warnings to Visitors to Muir Valley. and the Kentucky Recreational Use Statute. Your presence in Muir Valley signifies that you agree that you have been adequately warned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve, LLC (MVNP) of hazards that may exist in Muir Valley and that you consider MVNP in full compliance with the provisions of this statute.

  2. You must notify MVNP as soon as reasonably possible of any unusual dangerous condition or hazard in the Valley,of which you may become aware.

  3. To rock climb in Muir Valley, you must first submit and have accepted the Muir Valley Release Form. You must either fill out and submit this form on line at or do so on a temporary paper form, good for three days, available at the kiosk at the main Muir Valley parking lot.

  4. You must be eighteen years of age or older or be accompanied by your parent, your legal guardian, or responsible adult to enter this property. Those minors climbing with a responsible adult, such as a professional rock climbing guide, must have had the Muir Valley Release Form completed and submitted on-line on their behalf by their parent or legal guardian before entering Muir Valley. Climbers under age 18, who can demonstrate a proficiency in rock climbing, will be permitted to climb in Muir Valley on a case-by-case basis and only with special permission of the MVNP.

  5. Persons under the age of eighteen years (minors) must be supervised by their parent, legal guardian, or responsible adult and remain in the presence of that parent or guardian 100% of the time that the minor spends in Muir Valley.

  6. These activities are permitted in Muir Valley: rock climbing, hiking, trail running, and enjoying nature.

  7. These activities are NOT permitted in Muir Valley: sport rappelling, bungee jumping, rope jumping, taking long intentional falls (sometimes referred to as .victory whippers.), mountain biking, shooting firearms, hunting, trapping, camping, campfires, or operating motorized vehicles.

  8. Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in Muir Valley. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in Muir Valley are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that remain close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in Muir Valley.

  9. Do not climb above the anchors or top out on any climb in Muir Valley.

  10. Do not toprope through the anchor chains (or rings). This means do not run your rope from the belayer up and through the anchor hardware and back down to the climber. This produces unnecessary wear on the anchor hardware and may increase risk to you or climbers who use this hardware subsequent to your use of it. Instead, attach quickdraws or carabiners and slings to the anchor system and run your toprope through them.

  11. Unintentional falling is part of responsible rock climbing. Rock climbers are expected to be experienced and skilled in the technique of taking falls, and belayers are expected to be experienced and skilled in safely arresting the falls of the climbers they are belaying.

  12. No rock climbing routes of any kind may be put up in MVNP without the written permission of MVNP. If you wish to put up a climbing route, FIRST contact the owners with your ideas PRIOR to starting the project and they can help you get started. We are keeping a database of route setting projects in the valley. All new routes must have a database ID and be approved buy the owners (or their representatives). This is necessary to prevent overbolting and inappropriate setting of routes. No hardware of any kind may be permanently affixed to any rock in Muir Valley without the written permission of the MVNP.

  13. Please pack out all trash, especially non-biodegradable trash and toilet paper. Please do not throw cigarette butts on the ground. And, thank you for carrying out trash left by others!

  14. Dogs are not allowed in Muir Valley. This includes the parking lot. Leaving your dog tied to your car or, worse yet, shut in your car puts you dog at unreasonable risk of injury or death by overheating.

  15. Harvesting of plants or plant specimens is to be done only with the expressed specific permission of MVNP owners.

  16. Please do not damage trees and vegetation. Stay on existing trails. The Valley has been recently lightly logged. In time, the land cut by the more severe logging trails will be restored to its natural state. New footpaths may be established only with prior approval of the Muir Valley Owners.

  17. Absolutely no digging for and/or removal of relics will be permitted in caves, rock shelters, or anywhere else in Muir Valley.

  18. Please respect our neighbors' property and privacy. Drive slowly on the approach road. Children are often present. Park only on Muir Valley land in areas designated for parking.

  19. Illegal drugs and alcoholic beverages are NOT permitted anywhere in Muir Valley. Period.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
5.10d ** Armed Insurrection Sport 80ft, 9

FA: Jared Hancock & Rob Copeland, 2005

5.9 ** Cindarella Sport 80ft, 9

FA: Cinda Norton & J.J., 2005

5.10b ** Lucy Goosey Sport 80ft, 11

FA: Barry Brolley, 2007

5.9 * One-Armed Bandit Sport 80ft, 12

FA: Sarah Gross & Craig Luebben, 2006

5.11a ** Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship Sport 75ft, 11

FA: Craig Luebben, Kris Hampton & Sarah Gross, 2006

5.11c Sport 75ft, 10

FA: Greg Martin & Josh Thurston, 2006

Van Der Waals Goo (Open Project) SportProject 50ft, 7
5.11b Gym Jones Approved Sport 75ft, 11

FA: Barry Brolley, Craig Lubben, Mark Ryan & Jeff Colombo, 2007

5.11d The Last Slow Draw Sport 70ft, 9

FA: Craig Luebben, 2006

5.11c The First Fast Draw Mixed 75ft, 6

FA: Craig Luebben & Kris Hampton, 2006

5.10a Son of a Wanted Man Mixed 75ft, 1

FA: Craig Luebben, Kris Hampton & Sarah Gross, 2006

5.12a Jeff's Boneyard Project (closed) SportProject 70ft

FA: 2009

5.9 Hijacked Project Sport 50ft, 6

FA: Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan Jeff Colombo & Ashley Coil, 2007

5.7 Winona Trad 45ft

FA: Skip Wolfe, 2007

5.8 Oink! Oink! Trad 40ft

FA: Karen Clarke, 2007

5.10b Surfin' the Whale's Back Sport 55ft, 7

FA: Jeff Colombo & Mark Ryan, 2008

Three Toed Sloth (Open Project) SportProject 45ft, 6
5.12c Gorilla Sport 45ft, 6

FA: Ray Ellington & Kipp Trummel, 2009

5.12a Glide Sport 45ft, 6

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2008

5.9 Stealing Melinda Sport 25ft, 3

FA: Jeff Colombo, Mark Ryan, Skip Wolfe & Rick Weber, 2008

5.6 Lula Mae Trad 25ft

FA: Eric Cox, 2007

5.8 Abby Gabby Doo Sport 30ft, 5

FA: Mike Susko & Stacia Susko, 2006

5.12a Flying Serpents Sport 65ft, 6

FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers & Karla Carandang, 2005

5.10d ** Tanduay Time Sport 60ft, 5

FA: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers, Karla Carandang & J.J., 2005

5.11a ** Tao Bato Sport 50ft, 7

FA: Jared Hancock & J.J., 2005

5.11c *** Bangers and Mash Mixed 70ft, 9

FA: Kipp Trummel & Karen Clark, 2007

5.11c Renegade Mixed 85ft, 1

FA: Craig Luebben, 2006

5.11d Sweet Tater Sport 70ft, 8

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2007

5.11b Haggis, Neeps & Tatties Sport 85ft, 9

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2007

5.12a Trouble In Paradise Sport 95ft, 11

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.11b Hematopoiesis Sport 100ft, 12

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014


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