A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Red River Gorge 1,506 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.671185, 37.753860

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep featured sandstone.

Description:

A set of cliffs on solid sandstone. Climbs are generally steep with good holds -- often the pump is the problem, not the moves themselves.

A good, searchable, database/guidebook is available at: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/

Access Issues:

Vary from area to area: some public land, some private land, some land held by the Red River Gorge climber's coalition.

Approach:

Varies from crag to crag.

Where To Stay:

Miguel's campground. Land of the Arches campground. Many hotels and B&Bs in the area.

1.1. Gray's Branch Region 97 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.667042, 37.815671

1.1.1. Spring Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Derby Day 5.10d Unknown
2 * When Push Comes to Shove 5.9 Unknown

1.1.2. Tunnel Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * No Doz 5.4 Unknown
2 * Black Death 5.11b R Unknown
3 ** Negative Energy 5.11d Unknown
4 * Sideshow 5.8 Unknown
5 * Big Top 5.8 Unknown
6 * Exhibition 5.9 Unknown

1.1.3. Gray's Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** On the Road 5.9 Unknown 100ft
2 Hang Over 5.7 Unknown 40ft
3 Never Again 5.9 Unknown
4 ** Coexistence 5.12b Sport 50ft

1.1.4. Military Wall 53 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.669463, 37.815801

Approach:

Parking is about 1 mile east of Nada Tunnel in a parking lot just off KY 77 to the left.

Approach is across the road back towards the tunnel on the left. Cross a wooden bridge and go straight, turn right on the trail spur at a sign for Military wall, trial goes uphill about 10 min to the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Things That Go Bump In the Night 5.9 Trad 180ft
2 *** Jungle Beat 5.9 Trad 180ft
3 * Another Doug Reed Route 5.11b Sport 60ft
4 ** Forearm Follies 5.12a Sport 100ft
5 * Henry Kissinger's Glasses 5.10d Trad 100ft
6 Stacy's Farewell 5.5 Trad 100ft
7 ** Mental Health 5.11b Trad 80ft
8 *** Nagypapa 5.13d Sport 80ft
9 *** The Legend 5.13b Sport 90ft
10 ** Mule 5.12c Sport 90ft
11 *** Reliquary 5.12b Sport 30ft
12 *** Gung Ho

FA: Porter Jarrard, Mark Williams

5.12b Sport 60ft
13 ** Tissue Tiger 5.12b Sport 60ft
14 *** Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b Sport 60ft
15 * Possum Lips 5.10d Sport 40ft
16 Mercy Miss Percy 5.9 Sport 50ft
17 Stay Left 5.10a Sport 50ft, 4
18 Top-roper's Route 5.2 Trad 50ft
19 * Decays Way 5.7 Trad 60ft
20 Moonbeam 5.9 Sport 50ft
21 Sunshine 5.9 Sport 50ft
22 * In the Light 5.10c Sport 55ft

Approach trail meets cliff around here. Routes above are along the cliff line to the left and routes below are along the cliffline to the right.

23 Sailing Shoes 5.9 R Trad 60ft
24 *** Nicorette 5.12a Sport 50ft
25 ** Nicoderm 5.12b Sport 60ft
26 ** Minumum Creep 5.11c Sport 60ft
27 ** Not Worth It 5.9 R Trad 50ft
28 * Danita Dolores 5.10b Sport 50ft
29 ** Blade Runner 5.7 Trad 80ft
30 ** Hurricane Amy 5.11c Sport 60ft
31 *** Revival 5.13a Sport 60ft
32 ** Beenestalker 5.10d Trad 80ft
33 *** Thirsting Skull 5.12c Sport 50ft
34 *** Jac Mac 5.11d Sport 50ft
35 *** Rad Boy Go 5.12a Sport 50ft
36 * Thought It Was Bubbles 5.8 R Trad 80ft
37 *** Government Cheese 5.11d Sport 30ft
38 Parting Gift 5.11b Sport 55ft 6
39 ** Left Turret 5.11b Sport 50ft
40 ** Right Turret 5.12a Sport 50ft
41 ** Subatomic Fingerlock 5.10a Trad 30ft
42 * Beene Material 5.10c Trad 70ft
43 ** Nothing For Now 5.12a Sport 70ft
44 *** Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner 5.11c Sport 70ft
45 ** Special Impetus 5.12b Sport 70ft
46 Green Gully 5.3 Trad 100ft
47 *** Pink Feat 5.11d R Trad 120ft
48 *** Super Slab 5.12c Sport 70ft
49 *** All Things Considered 5.11d Sport 55ft
50 G.I. 5.7 Trad 130ft
51 Armed Forces 5.3 R Trad 130ft
52 ** Etrier 5.12b Sport 50ft
53 ** Daisychain 5.12c Sport 75ft

1.1.5. Left Flank 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.665066, 37.815066

Approach:

Parking is about 1 mile east of Nada Tunnel in a parking lot just off KY 77 to the left.

Approach is across the road back towards the tunnel on the left. Cross a wooden bridge and go straight, stay on the trail past a sign for a spur on the right leading to Military wall, cross a stream, trail goes up a hill and you come out at the cliff face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a Sport 60ft
2 ** Too Many Puppies 5.12a Sport 60ft
3 * Fast Food Christians

FA: Terry Kindred

5.10a Sport 60ft, 7
4 * Face Up to That Crack 5.8 Trad 70ft
5 Mr. Bungle 5.8 Sport 60ft
6 Maypop 5.11a Sport 50ft

Approach trail hit the cliff hear. Routes above are to the left along the cliff, and routes below are to the right along the cliff.

7 Brother Stair 5.9 Sport 40ft
8 *** Infectious 5.12b Sport 50ft
9 ** Birthday Party 5.9 R Trad 75ft
10 ** Unsportsmanlike Conduct 5.11c Trad 50ft
11 *** Stunning the Hog 5.12d Sport 45ft
12 *** Sex Farm 5.12b Sport 50ft
13 ** Aquaduck Pocket 5.11b Sport 50ft
14 ** Relaxed Atmosphere 5.11c Sport 60ft
15 * Third World Lover 5.11c Sport 60ft
16 *** Hen-ry! 5.11b Sport 50ft
17 ** Trad Boy Go 5.11a Trad 70ft
18 *** Table of Colors 5.13b Sport 80ft
19 *** Mercy, the Huff 5.12c Sport 80ft
20 *** The Dinosaur 5.12d Sport 65ft
21 * Wild, Yet Tasty 5.12a Sport 50ft

1.1.6. Raven Rock 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Nevermore 5.9 R Unknown 200ft
2 ** Flying Circus 5.10d R Unknown
3 * Groveling Earthworm 5.10d Unknown 120ft
4 * Ravin' Maniac 5.9 R Unknown 60ft
5 * Macabre Poetry 5.10b Unknown 60ft
6 * Premature Burial 5.7 Unknown 60ft
7 ** Dead of Winter 5.10b R Unknown 100ft

1.1.7. The Cove 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ghetto Methods V10 Boulder
2 Covert Methods

FA: Timy Fairfield

V12 Boulder
3 Hobbies Delight V4 Boulder
4 Kryptonite V6 Boulder

1.2. Lower Gorge Region 210 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.667551, 37.847939

1.2.1. Pebble Beach 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Broken Arrow 5.9 Unknown
2 The Arrowhead 5.7 Unknown 60ft
3 Beachcomber 5.4 Unknown 130ft
4 Halloween A2 Aid 70ft
5 Razorback 5.6 Unknown 40ft
6 ** Versatile Universe 5.10d Unknown
7 * Physical Attraction 5.10b Unknown 80ft
8 Scabies 5.9 Sport 40ft, 4
9 Zambezi Plunge 5.8 Unknown 100ft
10 *** Ju-Ju 5.10b Unknown 60ft
11 *** Sundance 5.10c Sport 60ft, 5
12 *** Central Scrutinizer 5.9 R Unknown 50ft
13 ** Environmental Impact 5.7 Unknown 130ft
14 * Straightedge 5.12a Sport 50ft, 6
15 ** Reserved Seating 5.10b Sport 50ft
16 *** High Noon 5.12a Unknown 60ft
17 *** Brontosaurus 5.10b Unknown 60ft
18 *** Welcome to Ole Kentuck 5.13a Unknown 40ft
19 ** The Seam 5.11c R Unknown
20 * Small Change 5.8 Unknown 30ft
21 *** Big Money

FA: Mark Strevels

5.9 Unknown 70ft
22 ** Blood Money 5.9 Sport 50ft
23 Punkin Head 5.9 R Unknown 60ft

1.2.2. Pistol Ridge 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 April Flowers 5.8 Unknown 25ft
2 Leaves of Three, Leave it Be 5.4 Unknown 20ft
3 Armed 5.10b Unknown 55ft
4 Double Helix 5.6 Unknown 40ft
5 danger mouse 5.7 Unknown 45ft
6 * Chem Studs 5.10a Unknown 30ft
7 Please Don't Feed the Triceratops 5.7 Unknown 35ft
8 * It's a Wonderful Life 5.9 Unknown 80ft
9 Bitchmobile 5.8 Unknown

1.2.3. Tarr Ridge 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Good Intentions 5.8 Unknown 60ft
2 * Dead On Arrival 5.9 Unknown 110ft
3 Brain Damage 5.7 Unknown 100ft

1.2.4. Willie's Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Missing the Obvious 5.8 Unknown 80ft
2 * She Loves Me 5.7 Unknown 80ft
3 Prozac Nation 5.10d X Unknown 80ft
4 *** Lust At First Sight 5.9 Unknown 75ft

1.2.5. Brighton Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Who's the Fool, Fool? 5.4 Unknown 40ft
2 * Brighton Rock 5.7 Unknown 55ft
3 Rice and Beans 5.4 Unknown 35ft

1.2.6. Symphony Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Boogered 5.11+ Unknown 60ft
2 Arms M Bargo A2 Aid 75ft
3 * Pop Tart 5.7 R Unknown 75ft

1.2.7. Jazz Rock 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Colonic Irrigation 5.0 Trad 60ft
2 ** Bambi: Caught in the Headlights 5.6 Trad 40ft
3 * Dead Deer 5.10a Trad 40ft
4 ** Long Live Trad

FA: Bill Strachan, Jerry Bargo, 1994

5.10c Trad 60ft
5 My, What a Pretty Crack You Have

FA: Jerry Bargo, Jeremy Sibert, 1994

5.5 R Trad 60ft
6 * Piranha

FA: Willie Hunt, Jerry Bargo, 1994

5.7 Trad 70ft
7 Mashed Potatos

FA: Jesse New, Dwayne Palazzolo, 2004

5.8 Trad 55ft
8 Green Beans 5.9 Trad
9 Grilled Steak 5.10b Trad 30ft
10 Caesar Salad 5.6 Trad 40ft
11 Apple Dumplings 5.3 Trad 40ft

1.2.8. Bear Wollor Hollor 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Conquest 5.10a Unknown 65ft
2 Fever 5.7 R Unknown 80ft
3 Yahoo 5.8 Unknown 70ft
4 In the Doorway 5.9 R Unknown 35ft
5 Wollor World 5.7 Unknown 40ft

1.2.9. Between Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 King Minas A1 Aid 100ft
2 * Tunnel of Love 5.8 Unknown 80ft
3 Squirm Summo 5.7 Unknown 45ft
4 Now Squirm 5.8 Unknown 45ft
5 * Hemlock Rap 5.8 Unknown 60ft

1.2.10. Muscle Beach 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Minas Ithil 5.2 R Unknown 70ft
2 ** Close Encounters With a Wench 5.9 Unknown 70ft
3 * Casual Corner 5.6 Unknown 45ft
4 ** Carnivorous 5.7 Unknown 30ft
5 Woman Trouble 5.7 Unknown 50ft
6 ** Muscle Shoals 5.8 Unknown 40ft
7 * Coup De Graus 5.11b Unknown 40ft
8 ** Cruising For a Bruising 5.8 R Unknown 90ft
9 ** Rock Rash 5.9 Unknown 80ft
10 * Last Wave 5.7 Unknown 110ft
11 *** Rocket Man 5.8 Unknown 110ft
12 * Jaws 5.8 Unknown 120ft
13 ** Trouble 5.10b Unknown 50ft
14 * Surfin With Grizz 5.6 Unknown 60ft
15 ** When Gravity Fails 5.9 Unknown 80ft
16 ** Mama Told Me Not To Come 5.7 Unknown 85ft
17 * Lost Soul 5.9 Unknown 50ft
18 * Grand Illusion 5.7 Unknown 60ft
19 * Bloody Fingers 5.8 Unknown 60ft
20 * Mental Mantle 5.8 Unknown 50ft

1.2.11. Dip Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Seuss is Dead 5.7 Unknown 40ft
2 * Unknown 5.7 Unknown 40ft
3 Whoville 5.6 Unknown 35ft
4 * The Grinch 5.4 Unknown 35ft
5 ** Sam I Am 5.10d Unknown 60ft
6 ** Logic and Proportion 5.10a Unknown 60ft
7 ** Griptospuridiam 5.11b Unknown 60ft
8 ** Chicken Head Better Than No Head 5.10a R Unknown 60ft
9 *** Winkin, Blinkin and Nod 5.11d Unknown 35ft
10 * Cindy Lou's Left Tube 5.9 Unknown 40ft
11 ** Seuss Seuss Sudio 5.3 Unknown 40ft
12 * Purple Cleaning Company 5.8 Unknown 40ft
13 * Green Eggs 5.7 Unknown 30ft
14 * Ham 5.7 Unknown 30ft
15 * Fox in Locks 5.9 R Unknown 40ft
16 * Star-bellied Sneeches 5.8 Unknown 40ft

1.2.12. Backside Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Handcrack My Ass 5.7 Unknown 40ft
2 ** Black Line 5.9 Unknown 80ft
3 * Orange Newt 5.8 Unknown 75ft
4 Back in the Saddle 5.7 Unknown 80ft
5 * Mickeye's Bitchin 5.8 Unknown 50ft

1.2.13. Lumpy Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Major's Pinnacle 5.8 Unknown 100ft
2 * Where's the Bolt? 5.8 Unknown 100ft
3 ** Spider Wand 5.10d Unknown 50ft
4 * Hilda's Crack 5.11a Unknown 60ft
5 ** Sensible Shoes 5.10c R Unknown 70ft
6 * Geezers With Tweezers 5.10c Unknown 120ft
7 ** Don't Give Your See-Saw Pal a Bump 5.9 Unknown 90ft

1.2.14. The Dome 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nickel Night 5.7 Unknown 75ft
2 * After the Fact 5.4 Unknown 90ft
3 * Private Duty Nurses 5.10a Unknown 160ft
4 ** Shakedown Street 5.9 R Unknown 150ft
5 ** Eye of the Storm 5.8 Unknown 90ft
6 * Diana-Mo-Hum 5.6 Unknown 40ft
7 * The Woof Woute 5.10c Unknown 80ft
8 * Blue Belly Lizard Pinnacle 5.1 Unknown 50ft

1.2.15. Indian Creek Crag 30 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * It's Got It All 5.9 Unknown 60ft
2 Bring Out the Gent 5.9 Unknown 50ft
3 Blissoming Into Manhood 5.9 Unknown 60ft
4 Trunkline 5.8 Unknown 60ft
5 Five Tree 5.7 Unknown 60ft
6 Shit My Pants and Dance 5.10b Unknown 60ft
7 *** Country Lovin' 5.12b Unknown 90ft
8 Gumby In A Tree 5.9 Unknown 70ft
9 * All In a Day's Work 5.10b Unknown
10 * Dangling Angle 5.9 Unknown 60ft
11 * Blood on the Nuts 5.8 Unknown 75ft
12 Over Easy 5.7 Unknown 30ft
13 *** Jim's Dihedral 5.10a Unknown 100ft
14 * Drunked Up 5.11a Unknown 100ft
15 ** Not Ice 5.12a Unknown 60ft
16 *** Fibrulator Direct 5.11c Unknown 80ft
17 ** Fibrulator 5.11b Unknown 80ft
18 *** Crack Attack 5.9 Unknown 80ft
19 Made Me Sweat 5.8 Unknown 60ft
20 * Indian Castle 5.6 Unknown 70ft
21 * Slimy Creatures 5.7 Unknown 120ft
22 * Gizmo 5.8 Unknown 75ft
23 * G2 the Friction 5.8 R Unknown 90ft
24 * Don't Come Easy 5.10b R Unknown 65ft
25 * Another One Bites the Dust 5.9 Unknown 130ft
26 ** Curiosity 5.8 Unknown 40ft
27 Break the Edge 5.8 Unknown 40ft
28 Don't Break the Edge 5.9 Unknown 40ft
29 *** Orange Barrel 5.10b Unknown 100ft
30 * Lost Dihedral 5.10b Unknown 110ft

1.2.16. Teeth Buttress 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tree In Your Face 5.5 Unknown 160ft

1.2.17. Purple Valley 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** In to the purple valley 5.8 Unknown 95ft
2 5.11 Jimmy and Spike go craggin' 5.10b Unknown 40ft
3 Flaring crack 5.7 Unknown 30ft
4 ** Coffee Talk

FA: Devin Pantess, Ray Pantess

5.10c Unknown 60ft
5 ** Captain One Eye

FA: Devin Pantess, Ray Pantess

5.10a Unknown 70ft
6 Electric Cowboy 5.11b Unknown 70ft
7 Delusions of Grandeur 5.11b Unknown 60ft
8 Come In Your Lycra 5.10a Unknown 45ft

1.2.18. Long Wall 49 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: -83.667447, 37.848132

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cruisemaster 5.11b Trad
2 Cruise Control 5.9 Trad
3 Treasures in Heaven 5.8 Trad
4 Suction Lipectomy 5.8 Trad
5 * Ralph and Bob's 5.7 Trad
6 Bloodline 5.12a Trad
7 Long Wall Chimney 5.7 Trad
8 ** Vector Trouble 5.10a Trad
9 ** Boom! Boom! Out Go the Lights 5.10b Sport 70ft, 8
10 * NEPA This 5.8 Trad
11 ** Stand and Deliver 5.11c Sport 70ft, 7
12 Two Step 5.7 Trad
13 Whip it Out 5.11d Sport 40ft, 6
14 Xanthic Dance 5.9 Trad
15 Five Easy Pieces 5.9 Trad
16 *** Autumn

FA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson

5.9 Trad 80ft
17 Hot September 5.9 Trad
18 Souder's Crack 5.11d Trad
19 *** Rock Wars 5.10a Trad 80ft
20 Now I'm Nothing V4 Boulder
21 The Gift

FA: Bill McCullough, Tim Powers

5.12a Sport 70ft, 9
22 Mailbox 5.8 Trad
23 Next Day Air 5.11b Trad
24 Sacred Geometry 5.13c Trad
25 Yuk

FA: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders

5.9 Trad 69ft
26 Trinket Man

This route starts from the ledge accessed via the 5.10a first half of Trinket Man.

5.11d Sport 140ft, 12
27 Denial

This route starts from the ledge accessed via the 5.10a first half of Trinket Man.

5.12a Sport 60ft, 12
28 Fire and Finesse

This route starts from the ledge accessed via the 5.10a first half of Trinket Man.

5.11d Sport 60ft, 6
29 Slip it in

This route starts from the ledge accessed via the 5.10a first half of Trinket Man.

5.12a Sport 60ft, 6
30 Kazi and Mito

This route starts from the ledge accessed via the 5.10a first half of Trinket Man.

5.11a Sport 60ft, 6
31 F-Man 5.9 Trad
32 Game Boy 5.11c Sport 140ft, 13
33 Are the Pies Fresh? 5.12a Sport 110ft 2, 13
34 Are the Pies Fresh? (first anchor) 5.11c Sport 80ft, 8
35 *** Back Door to Paris 5.10c Sport 70ft, 7
36 *** B3 5.11b Trad
37 Perforator 5.10a Trad
38 Fear and Loathing in Nada 5.10b Trad
39 Zen Master Dude 5.10a Trad
40 Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9 Trad
41 Nautical Twilight 5.8 Trad
42 Big Country 5.5 Trad
43 Rock Caddie 5.10a Sport 50ft, 5
44 The Snatch 5.11d Sport 45ft, 5
45 Feltch Me 5.9 Trad
46 Gladuator 5.12b Sport 30ft, 4
47 Texas Tea 5.8 Trad
48 Block and Tackle 5.10d Trad
49 Sugar Daddy 5.9 Trad

1.2.19. Board Wall 0 routes in Area

1.2.20. Blackburn Rock 0 routes in Area

1.2.21. Bee Branch Rock 0 routes in Area

1.2.22. Buzzard Ridge 0 routes in Area

1.2.23. Coffin Ridge 0 routes in Area

1.2.24. Clearcut Wall 0 routes in Area

1.3. Northern Gorge Region 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.618826, 37.869715

Access Issues:

Most crags are located on Forest Service land. Look out for Forest Service signs showing restrictions. Mariba Fork is in the Clifty Wilderness Area.

1.3.1. Fortress Wall 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.646481, 37.837807

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 American Crack

FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori

5.4 Unknown 60ft
2 ** Snake

FA: Bob Molzon Brad Shori

5.8 Unknown 60ft
3 *** bed time for bonzo

FA: George Robinson, Martin Hackworth

5.6 Trad 100ft 2
4 * the turret 5.5 Unknown 50ft
5 * oozing couth 5.5 Unknown 30ft
6 fortress grunges 5.4 Unknown 70ft
7 bonzo's revenge 5.4 Unknown 70ft
8 ** serpent 5.10b Unknown 60ft
9 ** where lizards dare 5.9 Unknown 75ft
10 ** bombs bursting

FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider

5.8 Unknown 60ft
11 ** the battlement 5.10c Unknown 50ft
12 ** Blue Runner 5.9 Unknown
13 * Calypso II

FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori

5.7 Unknown 60ft
14 Calypso III 5.2 Unknown
15 Party Time 5.7 Trad 150ft 2
16 Route 48 5.5 Unknown 66ft
17 American Wall 5.3 Unknown 82ft
18 Thunder Chicken

FA: Aron Boyles

5.11a Unknown 50ft
19 Days of Rage

FA: Ray Ellington

5.12d Unknown 50ft
20 *** Afterburner

FA: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders

5.11a Unknown 40ft

1.3.2. Phantasia 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.643595, 37.844771

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Overlord

FA: Brian Maslyar

5.10b Sport 50ft, 5
2 Lord Of The Flies 5.8 Sport 50ft, 5
3 ** Pogue Ethics 5.10b Sport 80ft, 9
4 Perverse Intentions 5.10a Sport
5 ** Creep Show 5.10d Sport
6 Count Floyd Show 5.11a Sport
7 ** Creature Feature

FA: Kevin Pogue, Elisa Weinman Pogue

5.9 Sport 66ft
8 *** Twinkie

This is the most fun you could have almost upside down. this is a stellar line on bomber rock. second to clean or back jump to the slab and rap off.

5.12a Sport 80ft, 14
9 Phantasia

Like Twinkie on steroids!

5.12d Sport

1.3.3. Dunkan Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.3.4. Sassafras Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Mariba Fork 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Middle Gorge Region 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.4.1. Tower Rock 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Africa 5.9 Unknown 80ft
2 Arachnid 5.8 Unknown 90ft
3 *** Caver's Route

FA: Unknown

5.4 R Unknown 150ft
4 Caver's Excitement 5.7 Unknown

1.4.2. Middle Small Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Quest 5.10c Unknown
2 * Which Way Is Up 5.10d Unknown
3 *** Basecamp 5.11d Unknown
4 ** Hidey-Ho 5.10a Unknown
5 * Investigator 5.7 Unknown
6 * Lactic Acid 5.9 Unknown
7 ** Handjob 5.9 Unknown
8 * Marmalade 5.9 Unknown
9 ** Layback Crack 5.8 Unknown
10 * Devine Climb 5.8 Unknown
11 * Spiderweb Tearoom 5.8 Unknown
12 Mickey Mantle 5.6 Unknown
13 ** Mantlepiece 5.10c Unknown

1.4.3. Lower Small Wall 0 routes in Area

1.4.4. Upper Small Wall 0 routes in Area

1.4.5. Hen's Nest 0 routes in Area

1.4.6. Jewel Pinnacle 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Diamond In The Crack 5.6 Trad 120ft 2

1.4.7. Pinch-em Tight Ridge 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cold Feet 5.4 Trad 40ft
2 Bungle Through the Jungle 5.6 Trad 120ft
3 Duke's Day 5.6 Trad 150ft
4 Orangutan 5.8 Trad 120ft
5 It Ain't Easy Being Cheesy 5.9 Trad 100ft

1.5. Upper Gorge Region 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.1. Eagle Point Buttress 17 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cranky 5.8 Unknown
2 * Southern Comfort 5.8 Unknown
3 Foxfire 5.7 Unknown
4 ** Day Dreaming 5.9 Unknown
5 ** Twin Cracks 5.9 Unknown
6 * Pussy Whipped 5.10a Unknown
7 The Integral 5.7 Unknown
8 Southern Hospitality 5.7 Unknown
9 Crude Boys 5.7 Unknown
10 ** The Hangover Problem 5.8 Unknown
11 ** If My Number's Up 5.9 Unknown
12 *** Blister in the Sun 5.9 Unknown
13 ** Scary 5.9 Unknown
14 ** Scared As a Virgin 5.8 Unknown
15 ** Tinker's Toy 5.8 Unknown
16 ** Quantum Mechanics 5.9 Unknown
17 ** Cooler Than Kissing 5.10a Unknown

1.5.2. Wall of Denial 4 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Strick 9 5.9 Unknown 70ft
2 Bongo 5.6 Unknown 60ft
3 *** Funhouse 5.7 Unknown 80ft
4 ** New Red River 5.9 Unknown 70ft

1.5.3. Moonshiner's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.4. Doorish Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.5. Woody's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.6. Eastern Gorge Region 82 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.583382, 37.815629

1.6.1. Funk Rock City 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scary Monsters and Super Freaks 5.10b R Top rope
2 Gyana Mundra 5.13a Trad
3 Frugal Chariot 5.12a Sport
4 Smokin' Joe 5.11b Sport
5 Joe Camel 5.8 Trad
6 Emphysema 5.11a Trad
7 The Infidel {AU} YDS:5.11d Unknown 70ft
8 Just Another Trad Route 5.9 Trad
9 Go Easy Billy Clyde! 5.12a Sport
10 Goodstone 5.10d Trad
11 Cruising Lane 5.10a Trad
12 Rite of Passage 5.9 Trad
13 Local Color 5.10b Top rope
14 Veldhaus Route 5.8 Trad
15 This is In 5.12a Sport
16 Eye of the needle 5.11b Unknown 70ft
17 Sparky Goes Crack Climbing 5.6 Trad
18 * Manic Impression 5.10a Unknown
19 Trad Wagon 5.9 Trad
20 * Funkadelic 5.10b Unknown
21 Flashlight (closed) 5.12c Sport
22 Cascading Wind 5.12a Trad
23 Appalachian Spring 5.13a Sport
24 Seppuku 5.12d Sport
25 There Goes The Neighborhood {AU} YDS:5.11c Unknown 95ft
26 *** Orange Juice {AU} YDS:5.12c Unknown 95ft
27 Red Hot Chili Pepper 5.11 Unknown
28 Headstone Surfer

FA: Hugh Loeffler, DeeDee Whelan

5.10a Unknown 90ft
29 *** Hardcore Jollies

FA: dave lutes, hugh loeffler

5.12a Unknown 45ft
30 L'lle Au Ciel {AU} YDS:5.11c Unknown 50ft
31 ** Prime Directive {AU} YDS:5.11b Unknown 95ft
32 Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle 5.9 Trad
33 Snotrocket 5.12+ Trad
34 Glory Be 5.12a Sport

1.6.2. Eastern Skybridge Ridge 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: -83.583324, 37.815643

Approach:

From the KY 77 / 715 intersection go 7.1 miles on KY 715 to a one lane concrete bridge, once cross the bridge go another 0.7 miles to a pull off on the left. The approach trail is ~300 ft back downhill down the road to the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sick Puppies 5.11c Sport 50ft, 4
2 Physical Graffiti 5.11d Sport 60ft, 6
3 War Emblem 5.10c Sport 100ft, 4
4 Fungus Fantasy 5.5 Trad 120ft
5 ** Jack in the Pulpit 5.10d Sport 66ft
6 Grunge Face 5.12a Sport 70ft, 7
7 *** Super Dario 5.11b Sport 66ft
8 Martin Rides Again {AU} YDS:5.11d Sport 70ft
9 Old Friends 5.8 Trad 70ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 The Rifleman {AU} YDS:5.12b Sport 100ft
11 *** Good Times

Twin cracks to the right of the Rifleman

5.8 Trad 98ft
12 Soul Ram 5.12b Sport 100ft, 9
13 Shelter from the Storm 5.11d Trad 80ft

The approach trail meets the cliff here. Routes listed before this are to the left along the cliff face, and routes after this are to the right along the cliff face.

14 No Return 5.9 Trad 100ft
15 Commencement 5.11c Sport 90ft, 10
16 Corpus Delicti 5.11d Sport 70ft, 7
17 Ex Post Facto 5.10b Trad 70ft
18 Outback 5.9 Trad 90ft
19 The Underling 5.9 Trad 100ft
20 What's Right with the Underling 5.12a Sport 75ft, 8
21 Out on a Limb 5.12c Sport 70ft, 9
22 *** King Me 5.11b Sport 98ft
23 Silently Does the Sun Shine

formerly an aid route.

5.14- Trad 100ft
24 The Learning Curve 5.12a Trad 35ft
25 Inhibitor 5.11a Trad 90ft
26 Nolo Contendere 5.12a Sport 90ft, 9
27 The Pearl V5 Boulder
28 The Route Goes Where!? 5.11d Sport 50ft, 7
29 The Big Bang 5.10c Trad 50ft
30 Doppler Effect 5.10b Trad
31 *** Dave the Dude 5.11d Sport 70ft, 7
32 Drop the Anchor 5.8 Sport

1.6.3. Half Moon 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Fallout

FA: Larry Day

5.10a Unknown 60ft
2 Ellen's Descent

FA: Ellen Seibert

Class 4 Unknown 70ft
3 Initiation

FA: Martin Hackworth, Tom Seibert

5.3 Unknown 25ft
4 * Eclipse

FA: John Bronaugh, Dirk Wiley

5.9 Unknown 90ft
5 * Honeymoon

FA: John Bronaugh, Tina Feezel

5.10a Unknown 80ft
6 * Waning Moon

FA: Martin Hackworth

5.9 Unknown 30ft
7 *** Full Moon

FA: Tom Seibert, Ellen Seibert, Frank Becker, Larry Day

5.7 Unknown 100ft
8 * Meteor Fall 5.9 Unknown 40ft
9 * Meteor Maker 5.10a Unknown 120ft
10 * Rockhouse 5.4 Unknown 75ft
11 Ron's Garden 5.6 Unknown 50ft
12 ** Scared Shitless 5.6 Unknown 60ft
13 ** It Ain't Over Yet 5.8 Unknown 60ft
14 * Bob's Moon 5.10b Unknown 50ft

1.6.4. Lower Sky Bridge Ridge 0 routes in Area

1.6.5. Western Sky Bridge Ridge 0 routes in Area

1.6.6. Camp Store Crag 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Camp

15 ft left of the arete with "Store" on it. looks like the crux is low, and the moves up the face are on the longer side, but to solid holds.

5.11d Sport
2 *** Store

bullet hole pockets and a crimp or two give way to better holds above and jugfest pumpfest after sidestepping a small roof. A few nimble slab moves here and there keep this arete lively but reasonable. also: stays dry in the rain.

5.10c Sport

1.6.7. Rough Trail 0 routes in Area

1.7. Tunnel Ridge Road Region 0 routes in Area

1.7.1. Jailhouse Rock 0 routes in Area

1.8. Natural Bridge Region 130 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.661000, 37.737565

Access Issues:

Torrent Falls, Beer Trailer Crag, and Roadside are all on private property. Please respect the landowners so not to ruin access to these areas.

1.8.1. Roadside Crag 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: -83.656559, 37.731388

Access Issues:

Private property. Please get access by donating money onto the website for access. http://grainingfork.org/

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Roadside Attraction

FA: Greg Smith, Ron Snider

5.7 Unknown 150ft
2 ** Runnin' Down a Dream 5.10a Unknown 75ft
3 Jump For Joy 5.9 Sport 50ft
4 Fadda

FA: Chris Chaney, Brian Rogers

5.10a Sport 50ft
5 Motha

FA: Grant Stephens

5.7 Sport 50ft
6 ** Five Finger Discount 5.8 Unknown 50ft
7 ** Hard Left 5.10a Unknown 70ft
8 ** Hemisfear 5.11d Sport 40ft
9 ** Home Is Where the Heart Is 5.12a Unknown 40ft
10 *** Mantel Route 5.10c Unknown 60ft
11 *** Headwall 5.12b Sport 90ft
12 *** Wicked Games 5.12d Sport 85ft
13 ** Andromeda Strain 5.9 Unknown 90ft
14 * Milkin' the Chicken 5.11d Unknown 50ft
15 ** A.W.O.L. 5.10b Sport 50ft
16 * Battle of the Bulge 5.10a R Unknown 80ft
17 ** Dragonslayer 5.10d Sport 50ft
18 ** Crazyfingers 5.10c Sport 50ft
19 ** Pulling Pockets 5.10d Sport 50ft
20 *** Synchronicity 5.10d Unknown 50ft
21 *** Jersey Connection 5.12a Sport 50ft
22 *** Stay the Hand 5.12a Sport 50ft
23 Roadside Roof Problem V? (project) Boulder
24 * Valor Over Discretion 5.8 R Unknown 50ft
25 * Psycho Killer 5.10c R Unknown 50ft
26 ** Harder Than Your Husband 5.11b Unknown 40ft
27 ** Scissors 5.11d Sport 50ft
28 *** Ro Shampo 5.11d Sport 60ft
29 *** Tic-tac-toe 5.12a Sport 60ft
30 ** Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure 5.11d Sport 100ft
31 *** Strevels Gets In Shape 5.12b Sport 90ft
32 *** Wild Gift 5.12c Sport 45ft
33 *** Way Up Yonder (1st pitch) 5.11b Unknown
34 ** Way Up Yonder 5.12a Sport 95ft
35 * Sand 5.11d Sport 45ft
36 ** The Return of Chris Snyder 5.11d Sport 95ft
37 *** Pine 5.12a Sport 95ft
38 * Just Duet

FA: John Bronaugh

5.10d Sport
39 Kampsight 5.9 Sport 80ft
40 Trouble Clef 5.9 Sport 80ft
41 Altered Scale 5.9 Sport 80ft
42 * All Cows Eat Grass 5.8 Sport 80ft
43 Ledger Line 5.7 Sport 60ft
44 C Sharp or B Flat

FA: Tina Bronaugh, Jennifer Rannells

5.7 Unknown 65ft
45 pimp for a day 5.12c Unknown
46 ** C-Sharp B-Flat 5.7 Unknown
47 * You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish 5.10b Unknown 59ft
48 Chunnel 5.13a Unknown
49 Science Friction 5.12b Unknown

1.8.2. Lady Slipper 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -83.662125, 37.751759

1.8.2.1. Global Village 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.661019, 37.751831

1.8.2.2. Emerald City 7 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.662970, 37.751935

1.8.3. Torrent Falls 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.664271, 37.716714

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cordelia 5.8 Sport
2 Hmmm 5.2 Trad
3 * Dream of a Bee 5.8 Sport
4 Wadcutter

FA: unknown

5.9 Sport 66ft
5 *** Bandolier 5.11a Unknown
6 Centerfire 5.11c Sport 250ft
7 ** Reciever 5.11b Sport 210ft
8 Recoil 5.11d Unknown 55ft
9 Racer X 5.12d Sport
10 Steelworker 5.12c Sport
11 Bare Metal Teen 5.12a Sport
12 Big Money Grip 5.12b Unknown 70ft
13 Burcham's Folly 5.8 Trad
14 Torrential 5.12c Sport
15 Neither 5.11a Trad
16 Into The Mystic 5.12c Sport
17 Paranoia

FA: Dave Hume

5.13b Unknown 90ft
18 Hydro Shock 5.12c Sport
19 *** It's Alive 5.10d Unknown
20 ** Reanimator 5.10b Unknown
21 About Five Ten 5.11b Sport
22 * Rest Assured 5.10a Unknown
23 *** Family Values 5.10d Unknown
24 Last Resort 5.10c Sport
25 Tourist Trap 5.9 Unknown
26 Impossible Choss 5.12c Sport
27 Smoke Screen 5.9 Trad
28 Sam's Line 5.13b Sport
29 *** Windy Corner 5.11b Trad
30 Us and Them 5.12a Sport
31 Del Boy 5.11b Sport
32 * Pocket Pussy 5.10d Unknown
33 ** Sex Show

FA: Jeff Moll, Porter Jarrard

5.11d Sport 200ft
34 *** Seek the Truth 5.11d Unknown
35 Sport for Brains 5.11d Sport
36 Ode To Poopie Head 5.11b Unknown
37 * Poopie Head 5.10b Unknown
38 Stool Sample 5.10a Unknown 40ft
39 ** Rectal Exorcism 5.11a Sport
40 G'sUs 5.11c Sport
41 Onaconaronni 5.11d Sport
42 Hoosier Buddies 5.11d Sport
43 Hired Guns 5.7 Unknown 40ft
44 Physically Strong, Mentally Awake... 5.5 Sport
45 Livin' in the UK 5.11c Sport
46 Mad Porter's Disease 5.12d Sport
47 My How Things Have Changed 5.11d Sport
48 Retroflex 5.9 Trad

1.8.4. The Zoo 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.661900, 37.734552

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BabaBooey

This and the next line begin with several tough moves on small pockets and edges. Make it through the beginning and be rewarded with a nice long run on good holds.

FA: Jeff Neal, 2012

5.11c Sport 70ft, 8
2 Hippopotomoose

Right of Sparkling Jackass is this excellent line which begins left of a low crack. Move up on pockets to reach an undercling crux then continue up the enjoyable pumpy face.

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2013

5.11b Sport 80ft, 8
3 ** Put Me in the Zoo 5.9 Unknown 70ft
4 ** Armadillo 5.11 Unknown 70ft
5 ** Chimp 5.10a Unknown 60ft
6 ** Edgehog 5.10c Unknown 60ft
7 Monkey In The Middle

FA: Stacey Temple, John Bronaugh

5.11b Unknown 82ft
8 Lynx Jynx 5.11c Unknown 70ft
9 *** Hippocrite 5.12a Unknown
10 Scar Tissue 5.12a Unknown
11 Jailbird 5.10d Unknown
12 skin the cat 5.11a Unknown
13 One Brick Shy 5.10c Unknown

1.8.5. Friction Slab 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Table Top V3 Boulder
2 *** Bulldog V8 Boulder

1.8.6. Coffee Shop 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Watch Tower V6 Boulder
2 Fresh Beans (Stand) V4 Boulder
3 Fresh Beans (Sit) V8 Boulder

1.8.7. Beer Trailer Crag 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.666860, 37.715036

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Morning Wood 5.12a Sport

1.9. Muir Valley 221 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.632631, 37.727881

Description:

Muir Valley is a recreational and rock climbing area owned and maintained by Friends of Muir Valley. Originally owned by Rick and Liz Weber. The Valley is approximately 400 acres in size and is home to some of Red River Gorge's best climbs. Home to routes such as Jesus Wept, Cell Block Six, Bundle of Joy and many others.

Access Issues:

The land is owned by Friends of Muir Valley. Please fill out and submit a waiver before climbing in this area.

Ethic:
  1. You must read and understand the documents .Warnings to Visitors to Muir Valley. and the Kentucky Recreational Use Statute. Your presence in Muir Valley signifies that you agree that you have been adequately warned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve, LLC (MVNP) of hazards that may exist in Muir Valley and that you consider MVNP in full compliance with the provisions of this statute.

  2. You must notify MVNP as soon as reasonably possible of any unusual dangerous condition or hazard in the Valley,of which you may become aware.

  3. To rock climb in Muir Valley, you must first submit and have accepted the Muir Valley Release Form. You must either fill out and submit this form on line at www.muirvalley.com or do so on a temporary paper form, good for three days, available at the kiosk at the main Muir Valley parking lot.

  4. You must be eighteen years of age or older or be accompanied by your parent, your legal guardian, or responsible adult to enter this property. Those minors climbing with a responsible adult, such as a professional rock climbing guide, must have had the Muir Valley Release Form completed and submitted on-line on their behalf by their parent or legal guardian before entering Muir Valley. Climbers under age 18, who can demonstrate a proficiency in rock climbing, will be permitted to climb in Muir Valley on a case-by-case basis and only with special permission of the MVNP.

  5. Persons under the age of eighteen years (minors) must be supervised by their parent, legal guardian, or responsible adult and remain in the presence of that parent or guardian 100% of the time that the minor spends in Muir Valley.

  6. These activities are permitted in Muir Valley: rock climbing, hiking, trail running, and enjoying nature.

  7. These activities are NOT permitted in Muir Valley: sport rappelling, bungee jumping, rope jumping, taking long intentional falls (sometimes referred to as .victory whippers.), mountain biking, shooting firearms, hunting, trapping, camping, campfires, or operating motorized vehicles.

  8. Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in Muir Valley. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in Muir Valley are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that remain close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in Muir Valley.

  9. Do not climb above the anchors or top out on any climb in Muir Valley.

  10. Do not toprope through the anchor chains (or rings). This means do not run your rope from the belayer up and through the anchor hardware and back down to the climber. This produces unnecessary wear on the anchor hardware and may increase risk to you or climbers who use this hardware subsequent to your use of it. Instead, attach quickdraws or carabiners and slings to the anchor system and run your toprope through them.

  11. Unintentional falling is part of responsible rock climbing. Rock climbers are expected to be experienced and skilled in the technique of taking falls, and belayers are expected to be experienced and skilled in safely arresting the falls of the climbers they are belaying.

  12. No rock climbing routes of any kind may be put up in MVNP without the written permission of MVNP. If you wish to put up a climbing route, FIRST contact the owners with your ideas PRIOR to starting the project and they can help you get started. We are keeping a database of route setting projects in the valley. All new routes must have a database ID and be approved buy the owners (or their representatives). This is necessary to prevent overbolting and inappropriate setting of routes. No hardware of any kind may be permanently affixed to any rock in Muir Valley without the written permission of the MVNP.

  13. Please pack out all trash, especially non-biodegradable trash and toilet paper. Please do not throw cigarette butts on the ground. And, thank you for carrying out trash left by others!

  14. Dogs are not allowed in Muir Valley. This includes the parking lot. Leaving your dog tied to your car or, worse yet, shut in your car puts you dog at unreasonable risk of injury or death by overheating.

  15. Harvesting of plants or plant specimens is to be done only with the expressed specific permission of MVNP owners.

  16. Please do not damage trees and vegetation. Stay on existing trails. The Valley has been recently lightly logged. In time, the land cut by the more severe logging trails will be restored to its natural state. New footpaths may be established only with prior approval of the Muir Valley Owners.

  17. Absolutely no digging for and/or removal of relics will be permitted in caves, rock shelters, or anywhere else in Muir Valley.

  18. Please respect our neighbors' property and privacy. Drive slowly on the approach road. Children are often present. Park only on Muir Valley land in areas designated for parking.

  19. Illegal drugs and alcoholic beverages are NOT permitted anywhere in Muir Valley. Period.

1.9.1. Coyote Cliff 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.641590, 37.735101

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Retirement Day 5.10c Sport 4
2 Trundling Trolls 5.11a Sport 4
3 Thunderclinger 5.10c Sport 6
4 Manteleer 5.10a Sport 7

1.9.2. Slab CIty 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.641234, 37.733893

Unique Features And Strengths:

The name says it all

Description:

Lots of face climbing

Approach:

Continue past The Arsenal to the marked sign

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Return to Balance

This line is located at the end of the wall, just to the right of an arete. Climb the face up to through the flake, then continue upwards via a water groove.

5.11a Sport 50ft, 5
2 Thrillbillies 5.10b Sport 9
3 Strip the Willows 5.11b Sport 6

1.9.3. The Arsenal 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.639644, 37.733133

Approach:

Instead of turning right to go to the Great Arch, continue down the main road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quicksilver 5.8 Trad
2 Sacriledge 5.10d Sport
3 Bathtub Mary

Climb pockets up to a short slab, then finish with a pumpy headwall.

5.11a Sport 70ft, 9
4 Picador 5.11b Sport
5 Bullfighter 5.12b Sport
6 Reload 5.12c Sport
7 Freakin' Deacon 5.12a Sport
8 Chicken Little Loves Abubu 5.9 Trad

1.9.4. Midnight Surf 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.641970, 37.732013

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Babyface

FA: Scott Curran, Dustin Stephens, 2012

5.12b Sport 100ft, 10
2 Starfish and Coffee 5.13a Sport
3 A Farewell to Arms 5.13a Sport
4 The Crucible 5.12c Sport
5 Vortex 5.12c Sport
6 Treehugger

FA: Dustin Stephens, Lena Bakanova, 2015

5.11d Sport 80ft, 9
7 Shiva 5.13b Sport
8 Tapeworm 5.12d Sport
9 *** Cell Block Six 5.12c Sport
10 Iniquity 5.12b Sport
11 Mello Yellow 5.11b Sport

1.9.5. The Boneyard 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -83.640626, 37.731882

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Armed Insurrection 5.10d Sport
2 Cindarella 5.9 Sport
3 ** Lucy Goosey 5.10b Sport
4 One-Armed Bandit 5.9 Sport
5 Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship 5.11a Sport
6 Hoosierheights.com 5.11c Sport
7 Van Der Waals Goo (Open Project) Sport Project
8 Gym Jones Approved 5.11b Sport
9 The Last Slow Draw 5.11d Sport
10 The First Fast Draw 5.11c Unknown
11 Son of a Wanted Man 5.10a Unknown
12 Jeff's Boneyard Project (closed) Sport Project
13 Hijacked Project 5.9 Sport
14 Winona 5.7 Trad
15 Oink! Oink! 5.8 Trad
16 Surfin' the Whale's Back 5.10b Sport
17 Three Toed Sloth (Open Project) Sport Project
18 Gorilla 5.12c Sport
19 Glide 5.12a Sport
20 Stealing Melinda 5.9 Sport
21 Lula Mae 5.6 Top rope
22 Abby Gabby Doo 5.8 Sport
23 Flying Serpents 5.12a Sport
24 Tanduay Time 5.10d Sport
25 Tao Bato 5.11a Sport
26 Bangers and Mash 5.11c Sport
27 Renegade 5.11c Unknown
28 Sweet Tater 5.11d Sport
29 Haggis, Neeps & Tatties 5.11b Sport

1.9.6. Animal Crackers 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.639920, 37.730879

Description:

Climbs are listed Left to Right

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Casey 5.8 Sport 75ft, 11
2 Harvey 5.7 Sport 80ft
3 Rikki Tikki Tavi 5.8 Sport 50ft
4 Sam 5.10b Sport 45ft, 6
5 Panda Bear 5.8 Sport 45ft

1.9.7. Bibliothek 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.640972, 37.730101

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Prayer for Owen Meany 5.6 Trad
2 100 Years of Solitude 5.11a Sport
3 Who Pooped in the Park? 5.11c Sport
4 The Giver 5.6 Trad
5 The Short, Happy Life of Fracis Macomber 5.10b Sport
6 The Stranger 5.12a Sport
7 Everything That Rises Must Converge 5.11d Sport
8 Resuscitation of a Hanged Man 5.11b Sport
9 All The Pretty Horses 5.11c Sport
10 No Country for Old Men 5.11b Sport
11 The Unbearable Lightness of Being 5.11c Sport
12 A Portrait of The Artist as a Young Man 5.11b Sport
13 The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock 5.11c Sport
14 Tea at trhe Palaz of Hoon 5.11b Sport
15 A Confederacy of Dunces 5.11c Sport
16 The Fury 5.11c Sport
17 The Sound 5.11c Sport
18 East of Eden 5.11d Sport
19 Lolita 5.12a Sport
20 American Psycho 5.11a Sport

1.9.8. Persepolis 0 routes in Crag

1.9.9. Solarium 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.638851, 37.733672

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Manifest Destiny {AU} YDS:5.12a Unknown 70ft
2 * Air-Ride Equipped {AU} YDS:5.11a Unknown 65ft
3 So Long Mr Petey 5.12c Sport
4 Magnum Opus 5.12a Sport
5 Urban Voodoo 5.12d Sport
6 Super Best Friends 5.12b Sport
7 Summer Sunshine 5.12b Sport
8 Galunlati 5.12b Sport
9 Mirage 5.12c Sport
10 Bundle of Joy 5.13a Sport
11 Abiyoyo 5.12b Sport
12 Banshee 5.11c Sport

1.9.10. The Great Arch 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.638448, 37.734544

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dyn-o-mite 5.9 Sport 85ft, 10
2 Black Powder 5.10a Sport 85ft
3 Lip Service {AU} YDS:5.11c Sport 80ft

1.9.11. Sunbeam Buttress 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.637246, 37.735165

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Predator

Leftmost route on ledge. Short, sustained, and good quality from the second you grab the roof start to the anchors!

Set by Carla Carandang, 2005

FFA: J.J., 2005

FA: Jared Hancock, 2005

5.11b Sport 45ft, 5
2 ** Prey

Just to the right of Predator, the leftmost route accessed from the ledge. Boulder start through the roof, easy climbing to the next roof.

FA: Jared Hancock, 2005

5.11a Sport 55ft, 5
3 Universal Gravitation 5.11a Sport 40ft, 3
4 Backstabber 5.9 Sport 40ft, 4
5 Sunbeam 5.10c Sport 65ft, 7
6 Moonshine 5.10b Sport 60ft, 5

1.9.12. Great Wall 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -83.637138, 37.733151

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Escalada {AU} YDS:5.6 Unknown 70ft
2 ** Dynabolt Gold {AU} YDS:5.10a Sport 70ft
3 ** Bitter Ray of Sunshine {AU} YDS:5.10d Sport 65ft
4 ** Edge-a-Sketch {AU} YDS:5.11b Sport 70ft
5 Special K {AU} YDS:5.11b Unknown 50ft
6 *** Boltergeist {AU} YDS:5.10b Sport 100ft
7 Legends of Limonite 5.8 Sport
8 Glory and Consequences 5.7 Sport
9 ** Touch of Grey 5.11a Unknown
10 Crusin' for a Brusin' 5.10d Unknown
11 Preemptive Strike 5.10c Unknown
12 Dance of the Druids 5.9 Unknown
13 Earth Surfer 5.11d Unknown
14 Beware the Bear 5.10b Unknown
15 Cruisin' for a Bruisin' 5.10d Unknown
16 Moots Madness 5.10a Unknown
17 Pre-emptive Strive 5.10c Sport

1.9.13. Shawnee Shelter 0 routes in Crag

1.9.14. The Hideout 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.636533, 37.731790

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 International Route of Pancakes 5.8 Sport 35ft
2 Moots Madness / Moots Maddness 5.10a Sport 40ft
3 Beware the Bear 5.10b Sport 50ft
4 *** Call of the Wild 5.7 Mixed 80ft, 2
5 Dance of the Druids 5.9 Sport 60ft

1.9.15. Indy Wall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.634937, 37.730360

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Makin' Bacon 5.10d Sport 40ft
2 Face Up To That Arete 5.8 Sport 35ft
3 Stretcherous {AU} YDS:5.12b Unknown 40ft
4 *** Annie The Annihilator. 5.10c Sport 40ft
5 Mid-Life Crisis 5.11c Sport 50ft, 7
6 Parasite 5.11c Unknown
7 Happy Fisherman 5.11c Unknown
8 Mentor Powers 5.10b Unknown

1.9.16. The Sanctuary 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -83.633986, 37.731130

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Perfidious Deciduous 5.11b Trad
2 Cherry Red 5.14a Unknown 80ft
3 Name Dropper 5.13a Sport
4 Blue Sunday 5.13a Sport
5 Peace Frog 5.12d Unknown 80ft
6 Hoosier Boys 5.12b Unknown 80ft
7 Prometheus Unbound 5.13a Unknown 95ft
8 Jesus Wept 5.12d Unknown 95ft
9 Triple Sec (aka 50 bucks) 5.13a Unknown 95ft
10 Buddha Slept 5.12a Trad
11 Immaculate Deception 5.12a Sport
12 Dirty Old Men 5.8 Trad
13 Cruxifixion 5.12d Sport
14 Blue Collar 5.12b Sport
15 First Fall 5.8 Trad
16 Conquistador of the Crumbly 5.10+ Trad

1.9.17. Inner Sanctum 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.633143, 37.732062

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bad Company 5.10a Sport 50ft
2 Karmic Retribution {AU} YDS:5.10c Unknown 45ft
3 Netizen Hacktivist 5.9 Sport 60ft
4 Cosmic Trigger {AU} YDS:5.12a Unknown 70ft

1.9.18. The Stadium 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.632168, 37.731650

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Melancholy Mechanics 5.10d Unknown 60ft
2 *** No Bones About It 5.10b Unknown 90ft

1.9.19. Tectonic Wall 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.631248, 37.730661

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 LIDAR 5.8 Trad
2 ** Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky {AU} YDS:5.10b Sport 60ft
3 * Plate Tectonics {AU} YDS:5.10a Sport 65ft, 6
4 5th Bolt Faith 5.10c Sport
5 Continental Drift 5.8 Trad
6 Tall Cool One 5.9 Sport
7 Paraplegic Power 5.7 Trad

1.9.20. Johnny's Wall 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.632009, 37.730075

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 59" Drillbitch 5.10a Sport 45ft, 5
2 * Bethel 5.10a Sport 50ft, 5
3 ** Spinner 5.10b Sport 50ft
4 * Mankala 5.10a Sport 50ft
5 Burning Bush 5.11a Sport
6 Climbing With Crowbars 5.7 Trad
7 * Thanks Holly 5.8 Unknown
8 * Two Chicken Butts 5.9 Sport
9 Mental Affair 5.8 Trad
10 Brain Stem 5.7 Trad
11 Grey Matter 5.10b Sport

1.9.21. Practice Wall 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.627517, 37.727633

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crescent Moon 5.10a Sport 35ft
2 Crescendo 5.8 Sport 40ft
3 * Slabalito 5.7 Sport 20ft, 2
4 ** Shawty 5.8 Sport 20ft, 2
5 * Low Exposure

FA: Jared Hancock,Sierra Jones,Mark Ryan, 2005

5.8 Sport 25ft, 3
6 Short and Sweet

Left slanting crack visible from where the trail meets the wall.

FA: Mark and Kate Calder, 2004

5.7 Trad 20ft
7 Acrophobiacs Anonymous 5.4 Sport 25ft, 3
8 Yu Stin Ki Pu 5.5 Sport 20ft
9 Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni

FA: Jared Hancock,Karla Carandang,Jenny Wagner, Mark Ryan, 2005

5.7 Sport 20ft, 2
10 Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken 5.9 Sport 25ft
11 Beta Spewer 5.10b Sport 20ft

1.9.22. Washboard Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.9.23. Bruise Brothers Wall 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.626364, 37.724666

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dirt In Eye 5.7 Trad 60ft 2
2 Pine Needle Shuffle 5.6 Trad 50ft
3 ** Redriveroutdoors.com 5.10a Sport 130ft
4 *** Redeye Brew 5.8 Sport 45ft
5 Flutterboy Blue {AU} YDS:5.9 Sport 40ft
6 ** Tomthievery (aka The Sultan Returns) 5.8 Trad 50ft
7 Stay Off the Radio Jeff! 5.9 Sport
8 The Bee's Business

FA: Jenny Ryan, Mark Ryan, 2010

5.7 Sport 50ft, 6
9 Sweet Jane 5.8 Sport 50ft
10 Trundling Kentucky

FA: Skip Wolfe, Jeff Colombo, Mark Ryan, 2011

5.7 Sport 50ft, 5
11 * Hey there, fancy pants 5.10c Sport
12 * Jungle Trundler 5.11a Sport 60ft
13 * Little Viper 5.10b Sport 50ft
14 CH4 {AU} YDS:5.7 Sport 30ft, 3
15 Rising

Continuation of CH4, follow the 3 steel perma-draws out over the roof to anchors. When done in one go after CH4, it is called Methane Rising.

5.11a Sport
16 A-Beano {AU} YDS:5.8 Sport 30ft, 3
17 Don't Take Yer Guns to Town 5.10c Sport
18 * The Offering

FA: Dennis Rice, Mike Susko, Tim Powers

{AU} YDS:5.7 Sport 45ft, 5
19 *** Put the Best Foot Forward 5.8 Trad 55ft
20 Send Me On My Way {AU} YDS:5.9 Sport 75ft
21 Workin' for the Weekend 5.10c Sport 70ft
22 Return of the Manimal 5.10d Sport 85ft
23 * Critters on the Cliff 5.11a Sport 75ft
24 ** Rat Stew 5.10a Sport

1.9.24. Sunnyside 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.626383, 37.722721

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dog Wars 5.12 Unknown 90ft
2 Fear of Common Sense 5.11b Unknown 70ft
3 Project 5.12+ Unknown 80ft
4 Mini Me 5.9 Unknown 30ft
5 Enganche 5.10b Unknown 60ft
6 Machete 5.10b Unknown 65ft
7 Weed Eater 5.11b Unknown 75ft
8 Velveteen 5.5 Unknown 40ft
9 Kokopeli's Dream 5.9 Sport 40ft
10 Baccaus Goes Climbing 5.8 Unknown 45ft
11 Dingo the Gringo 5.10c Unknown 45ft

1.9.25. Land Before Time Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.631729, 37.723725

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sabertooth 5.10c Sport 56ft, 6
2 Watering Hole 5.10b Sport
3 Ryanosaurus 5.9 Sport 52ft
4 ** Prehistoric Extermination 5.8 Sport 52ft, 6

1.10. Miller Fork Recreational Preserve 123 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.680405, 37.651385

Description:

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre tract of land in Lee County, Kentucky, that the RRGCC closed on in May of 2012 with the help of the Access Fund’s Land Conservation Campaign.

Access Issues:

The RRGCC received grant money from the Access Fund to help make a $45,000 down payment, and has a plan in place to make five yearly mortgage payments of $40,000, after which the RRGCC will own the MFRP, securing climbing access on that land in perpetuity.

Approach:

The Miller Fork parking lot, completed in the summer of 2014 with help from local oil and construction companies, is just before a wide creek on Hell Creek Road. Driving directions from Miguel's is to continue south on KY 11 just past Koop's gas station on the right. Turn left on Shumaker Ridge Rd.and follow for 3.5 miles and you will then as the road continues left you will drive straight down on a gravel road called Hell Creek Rd. Go down the hill all the way until the first intersection and turn right. Follow for another mile until you reach the parking area.

Where To Stay:

Miguel's Campground for climbers. Land of the Arches campground. Lago Lindas campground.

1.10.1. Alcatraz 0 routes in Crag

Approach:

From the main parking area cross Hell creek using the footbridge and follow the road past two main turnoffs on the left, the second of which leads to the Bowman Fork climbing areas. Continue along the main road, passing a narrow dirt road on the left which is the trail for Chaos. Shortly after that you will see a short road on the right which is the trailhead for Highlands. Almost directly across from this is a wider road than the one leading to Chaos which angles uphill to the left. This is the road you want to follow to reach Alcatraz. Follow the road until you see an obvious very steep pocketed wall beginning on a wide ledge about 4 feet up. That is the Power Grid section of Chaos wall. Continue along the road and shortly you will locate a steep trail leading straight to the short and striking line, Silent Circle, which marks the beginning of Alcatraz.

1.10.2. Chaos 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.680314, 37.641975

Description:

Chaos is the section of cliff to the right of Serenity Point and left of Alcatraz. The rock is high quality and varies from vertical to slightly overhanging with some sections such as the Power Grid clocking in at steep. As with most north facing cliffs in the Red the rock can be covered in powdery lichen so bring a brush

Access Issues:

Land is owned by RRGCC

Approach:

From Serenity Point walk right along the trail until reaching a point where it heads downhill skirting the cliff. Chaos begins with the first cluster of routes on a vertical wall capped by a high roof where Live with a Curse can be found. It's also possible to reach Chaos without walking up the trail to Coopers Cove and Serenity Point. To approach this way continue walking along the main dirt road as if going to Highlands or Fruit Wall. Eventually an old logging road angles uphill to the left. Follow this road which branches to a trail leading uphill and ending just beneath Mike Mulligan. The wall faces north to northeast. 37.6417N -83.6802 W

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Die With a Blessing

FA: Ian Kirk, 2014

5.10d Sport 50ft, 5
2 Live With a Curse

FA: Ray Ellington,Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12d Sport 70ft, 10
3 The Cypress Agency 5.13 Sport Project 75ft, 9
4 Philosophical Progression

FA: Russ Jackson, 2014

5.9 Trad 60ft
5 King Ducky

FA: Alex Noreikis, Ian Kirk, 2014

5.5 Sport 40ft, 4
6 Dyslexics Untie!

FA: Steve Simpson, Alan Prechtel, 2014

5.7 Sport 40ft, 4
7 Swamp Gator

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12b Sport 60ft, 8
8 Lithuanian Princess

FA: Kristina Noreikis, Ian Kirk, 2014

5.10a Sport 40ft, 6
9 Spider Monkey

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.11b Sport 45ft, 5
10 Mike Mulligan

FA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.11c Sport 70ft, 9
11 Mary Anne

FA: Tania Allen, Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.11c Sport 70ft, 9
12 Some Assembly Required

FA: Kipp Trummel,Russ Jackson, 2014

5.6 Sport 30ft, 4
13 Teacher's Pet

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.10b Trad 35ft
14 Slabalicious

FA: Russ Jackson, 2014

5.10c Sport 30ft, 4
15 Broken Dreams

FA: Russ Jackson, 2014

5.8 Trad 30ft
16 Left Coast

FA: Jeff Neal, 2014

5.11c Sport 55ft, 8
17 Funky Toe

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12b Sport 65ft, 9
18 The 2nd Law

FA: Art Cammers, Kenneth Johns, 2014

5.10b Trad 40ft
19 She Rolls Gangsta Style

FA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12b Sport 70ft, 6
20 Ride The Pony 5.12b Sport Project
21 House of Mirrors

FA: Ray Ellington,Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12c Sport 75ft, 11
22 Morla

FA: Kenneth Johns, Meghan Curry, 2014

5.10d Trad 100ft
23 OCR

FA: 2014

Sport 50ft, 6
24 9-Volt

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12b Sport 50ft, 6
25 Switch

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

5.12a Sport 60ft, 7

1.10.3. Cloud 9 0 routes in Crag

Approach:

Cloud 9 faces south to southeast. From the main parking area cross the creek and walk down the road until reaching the second road on the left. Walk down this road, passing the obvious trail head on the right leading to Serenity Point, until reaching a road on the right which crosses a creek. This road is marked by a muddy parking area just before the main road angles right and continues uphill to the Deep End. Cross the creek and continue down this muddy road for about five minutes until the road severely breaks down near a stream. At his point look for a trail on the right which winds uphill to The Infirmary. Continue on the road past this trail and across the break in the road for another five minutes looking for another trail branching off to the right. Follow this trail to reach Cloud 9.

1.10.4. Cooper's Cove 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.681578, 37.641256

Approach:

A nice orange well featured overhanging wall facing south to southeast with some very enjoyable pump fests. Located left and around the corner from Serenity Point. From the main parking area cross the creek and take the second road on the left for about 200 feet until reaching the first trail head on the right. Follow the trail uphill and head left when the trail meets the cliff. The first group of routes you will come to is Serenity Point. For Cooper's Cove continue left along the wall until reaching an obvious overhanging orange wall begging to be climbed. The first route on the right side of the main wall is Gas Huffer. Grain of Salt is off by itself further right of the main wall and you probably didn't even notice it when you passed it. The wall faces south.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Unmentionable

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2015

5.8 Trad 35ft
2 Nystagmus

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2015

5.8 Sport 30ft, 4
3 La NAMBLA

FA: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran, 2015

5.8 Sport 50ft, 5
4 Grain of Salt

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2013

5.10c Sport 50ft, 5
5 Gas Huffer

FA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel, 2013

5.11c Sport 60ft, 7
6 Shake Down

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington

5.11a Sport 60ft, 7
7 Where The Sidwalk Ends

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington, 2013

5.10d Sport 60ft, 7
8 Diesel Therapy

FA: Rob McFall, 2013

5.11a Sport 60ft, 6
9 Road Kill

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington, 2013

5.10c Sport 60ft, 7
10 Pure Pleasure

FA: Rob McFall, 2013

5.11b Sport 60ft, 7
11 Addiction

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington, 2013

5.11c Sport 60ft, 8
12 Grab n' Go

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington, 2013

5.10d Sport 60ft, 8
13 Grundle Bundle

FA: Dustin Stephens, John Flunker, 2014

5.11a Sport 60ft, 7
14 Poop Dolla!!

FA: Justin Bartlett, 2013

5.11b Aid 55ft, 8
15 The Devil in The White City

FA: John Flunker, 2013

5.12a Sport 60ft, 7
16 Bay Harbor Butcher

FA: Ray Ellington, 2013

5.11b Sport 65ft, 6
17 The Hustle

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington, 2013

5.11b Sport 60ft, 7
18 Russian Body Thief

FA: Kipp Trummel, Ray Ellington, 2013

5.11b Sport 60ft, 6
19 For Goodness Blake

FA: Blake Bowling, 2014

5.5 Trad 30ft
20 Work Therapy

FA: Blake Bowling, 2014

5.11c Sport 60ft, 6
21 Unstable Behavior

FA: Blake Bowling, 2014

5.12a Sport 70ft, 7
22 Head Case

FA: Blake Bowling, 2014

5.9 Trad 40ft
23 Self Medication

FA: Blake Bowling, 2014

5.11c Sport 40ft, 4

1.10.5. Corner Pocket 0 routes in Crag

Approach:

Take the same trail as for Highlands, crossing/wading the creek two more times. At a third smaller tributary crossing, head steeply up and right on the hill following the yellow-tagged trail to the Pharmacy, leaving the main trail on the valley floor. After a switchback you will join an old oil road; continue along this oil road to the Pharmacy, or cut steep switchbacks directly up the hill to the right to get to Corner Pocket.

1.10.6. Deep End 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.684641, 37.640742

Access Issues:

Owned by the RRGCC.

Approach:

From the parking area cross the large creek. Follow the main road and take the second road on your left as you would for serenity point, cooper's cove etc. Continue on this road past the trail for Serenity point etc. Cross a small creek and continue on the road. Walk up a steep hill affectionately called peanut butter hill to reach an oil pump. 100 feet past the oil pump you will see an obvious trail on your left. This meets up with the cliff near The Abyss, Adult Swim, etc. Routes 1 through 4 will be to the left of this starting off a 5 foot wide ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Behind the Green Curtain

FA: Dan Beck,Rick Wagner, Chase Blair, 2014

5.10a Trad 65ft
2 Silicosis

FA: John Flunker, 2013

5.11d Sport 70ft, 8
3 The Cough

FA: John Flunker, 2013

5.10c Sport 65ft, 6
4 Lichenosis

FA: John Flunker, 2013

5.11a Sport 70ft, 8
5 Natural Ice

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2013

5.11b Sport 70ft, 8
6 Green Room

FA: John Flunker, 2013

5.12b Sport 65ft, 6
7 The Guillotine

Closed Project

5.12 Sport Project 75ft, 7
8 The Abyss

FA: John Flunker, 2013

5.12d Sport 90ft, 10
9 Adult Swim

FA: Scott Curran, 2013

5.13a Sport 90ft, 9
10 Heavy Seas

FA: Steve Sandmann, Scott Curran, 2013

5.13b Sport 75ft, 7
11 Knuckle Sauce

FA: Marty Vogel, Scott Curran, 2013

5.12a Sport 75ft, 7
12 Half Mast

FA: Scott Curran, 2013

5.11b Sport 60ft, 6
13 Peeping Tom

FA: Matt Smith, 2014

5.8 Trad 65ft
14 Pool Boy

FA: Jimmy Hoctor, Dustin Stephens, 2013

5.10b Sport 75ft, 8
15 Fluffer

FA: Dustin Stephens,Jimmy Hoctor, 2013

5.10a Sport 70ft, 8

1.10.7. Fruit Wall 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.678375, 37.644999

Access Issues:

This wall is owned by the RRGCC.

Approach:

From the main parking area cross the creek and follow the road past two turnoffs on the left, the second of which leads to Serenity Point/Coopers Cove. Shortly after the second left a short road on the right appears which is the parking for Highlands/Corner Pocket. Continue along the main road, staying right at the fork, until another creek crossing is found. Cross the creek and walk uphill for about five minutes until the road flattens. As the road becomes steep again and more narrow look for the main trail to the left which angles sharply back toward the main wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fruit Cake

Up to 4" camalot.

FA: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran, 2014

5.10a Trad 60ft
2 Pineapple Express

FA: Dustin Stephens, Lena Bakanova, 2014

5.12a Sport 50ft, 5
3 Breakfast at Koops

FA: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran, 2014

5.11d Sport 60ft, 7
4 J's on my Feet

FA: Scott Curran, 2015

5.12c Sport 70ft, 8
5 Mojo Bro Tank Bar Crawl

FA: Scott Curran, Jimmy Hoctor, 2014

5.12a Sport 70ft, 8
6 Fruit by the Foot

FA: Scott Curran, Jimmy Hoctor, 2015

5.12b Sport 80ft, 9
7 Flaccid Fruit

FA: Dario Ventura, 2011

5.12b Sport 90ft, 10
8 Fruits of my Loins 5.12d Sport 95ft, 9
9 Hourglass Crack

FA: Justin Loyka, Dylan Schweig, 2014

5.10d Trad 100ft
10 Banana Hammock

FA: Dario Ventura, 2011

5.12a Sport 95ft, 11
11 Witness the Citrus

FA: Dario Ventura, 2011

5.11c Sport 95ft, 12
12 Cannibal Queen

FA: Scott Curran, 2014

5.12c Sport 80ft, 8
13 Grapes of Wrath 5.13 Sport Project 80ft, 6
14 Conkle Donkle

FA: Scott Curran, 2014

5.12c Sport 90ft, 10
15 Bumpers & Bogs

FA: Brendan Leader, 2014

5.12c Sport 95ft, 10
16 Artifact

FA: John Flunker, 2014

5.12b Sport 95ft, 11
17 Melon Baller

FA: John Flunker, Rachael Lowney, 2015

5.10d Sport 65ft, 8
18 Just Peachy Mon

FA: John Flunker, Ashley Hudson, 2014

5.11c Sport 65ft, 7
19 JewJew Fruit

FA: Emily Ventura, 2012

5.10c Sport 75ft, 8
20 Drosophila

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.12a Sport 80ft, 8
21 Banana Split

FA: Olivia Nash,Sarah Crabtree, Marty Vogel, 2014

5.8 Sport 35ft, 3
22 Poppin Cherries

FA: Marty Vogel, Tina Thomas, 2014

5.8 Sport 40ft, 4
23 Peach Fuzz

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.11b Sport 50ft, 6
24 Mango Love

FA: Marty Vogel, Liem Lu, 2015

5.12b Sport 50ft, 6
25 Heath Ledger

FA: Dustin Stephens, Austin Hogue, 2014

5.10c R Sport 80ft, 12
26 Drag City

FA: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran, 2014

5.10c Trad 100ft
27 Fruit Wall Project 2

Closed Project. Extension continues and goes at roughly 5.12a.

5.10d Sport Project 50ft, 5
28 Fruit of the Loin

FA: Art Cammers, Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.10a Trad 60ft
29 Slice of Spice

FA: Dario Ventura, Ben Richie, 2011

5.10a Trad 50ft
30 Disco Strangler

FA: Scott Curran, Kyle Waldrop, 2014

5.8 Trad 55ft
31 The Ballad of Paul Shin

FA: Justin Loyka, Dylan Schweig, 2014

5.9 Trad 65ft
32 Lichen Lessons

FA: Jake Veresh, 2014

5.10c Sport 60ft, 7
33 Tennis Elbow

FA: Dustin Stephens,Scott Curran, Marty Vogel, 2014

5.7 Trad 50ft
34 Pickle Head

FA: Dylan Schweig, Justin Loyka, 2014

5.8 Trad 65ft

1.10.8. Graveyard 0 routes in Crag

1.10.9. The Hal Garner Memorial Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.10.10. Highlands 0 routes in Crag

1.10.11. The Infirmary 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.683311, 37.641723

Access Issues:

Property is owned by the RRGCC.

Approach:

From the main parking area cross the creek and walk down the road until reaching the second road on the left. Walk down this road, passing the obvious trailhead on the right leading to Serenity Point, until reaching a road on the right which crosses a creek. This road is marked by a muddy parking area just before the main road angles right and continues uphill to the Deep End. Cross the creek and continue down this muddy road for about five minutes until the road severely breaks down near a stream. At his point look for a trail on the right which winds uphill to The Infirmary. You will meet up with the wall near a gigantic boulder and the route named Trephination.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Recovery Room

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

5.10b Sport 60ft, 8
2 ReCooperAte

FA: Scott Cooper,Linda Cooper, 2015

5.8 Sport 35ft, 4
3 Family History

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

5.11a Sport 60ft, 7
4 Bipolar

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

5.11b Sport 55ft, 8
5 Zoonotic

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.10d Sport 50ft, 6
6 Anaphylaxis

FA: Dustin Stephen, Symon Ardila, 2015

5.12c Sport 75ft, 8
7 Treponema Pallidum

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.12b Sport 80ft, 8
8 Quarantine

FA: Dan McMahon, Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.12c Sport 80ft, 7
9 Last Rites

Closed Project

5.12c Sport Project 75ft
10 Diminished Gluteal Syndrome

FA: Kris Hampton, Mike Wheatley, 2014

5.12d Sport 100ft, 14
11 Halitosis

Open project

5.13 Sport Project 75ft, 10
12 Push Present

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.11d Sport 80ft, 10
13 Pandemic

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.12b Sport 85ft, 13
14 Sacbrood Virus

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.12a Sport 75ft, 9
15 Magic Bed

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

5.11b Sport 70ft, 10
16 Phantom Pain

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2013

5.11c Sport 65ft, 9
17 Typhoid Mary

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2015

5.10a Sport 55ft, 8
18 Ebola

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.12b Sport 70ft, 7
19 Brachial Plexus

FA: Dustin Stephens, Art Cammers, 2014

5.11c Sport 80ft, 8
20 Trephination

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.11d Sport 85ft, 9
21 Plague Doctor

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.12a Sport 85ft, 9
22 Triage

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

5.12b Sport 85ft, 9
23 Pre-op

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

5.10d Sport 45ft, 5
24 Porphyria

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

5.11a Sport 60ft, 5
25 Aquagenic Urticaria

FA: Brent DuPree, Dustin Stephens, 2014

5.10b Sport 45ft, 5
26 Malpractice

FA: Matthew Seto, Sid Trogden, 2014

5.9 Trad 60ft

1.10.12. The Laboratory 0 routes in Crag

1.10.13. Monastery 0 routes in Crag

1.10.14. The Morgue 0 routes in Crag

1.10.15. The Nursery 0 routes in Crag

1.10.16. The Pharmacy 0 routes in Crag

1.10.17. The Portal 0 routes in Crag

1.10.18. The Record Shop 0 routes in Crag

1.10.19. Scotch Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.10.20. Secret Garden 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

Owned by the RRGCC.

Approach:

From the main parking area follow the trail on the grassy road behind the big Eureka oil tanks. Trend left to come up around Linear Regression. Head left for routes 1-5 and right for the rest.

1.10.21. Serenity Point 0 routes in Crag

1.10.22. Vine Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve 418 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.723773, 37.657523

Description:

The PMRP is a 700 acre cut of land owned by the RRGCC. The land was purchased from the oil company which still maintains drilling privileges for the area. So please respect the oil companies equipment as well as the roads down there in the area. Please do not black any equipment or any of the roads by over parking in an area.

Access Issues:

Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices. All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners. Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear. Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails. No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted. No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose. Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.

1.11.1. Crossroads 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.732737, 37.676276

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 N4 5.10c Sport
2 Love Potion #9 5.9 Sport
3 The Country Boy 5.11b Sport
4 Legalize It 5.12a Sport
5 Wake and Bake 5.11d Sport
6 Hippie Speed Ball 5.11d Sport
7 Cannabis Love Generator 5.11c Sport
8 Praying Mantis 5.12a Sport
9 Happy Feet 5.11c Sport
10 Signed In Blood 5.12b Sport
11 Stomp U Out 5.12c Sport
12 Hood Luck 5.12a Sport
13 Fairweather Friend 5.10d Sport
14 October Sky 5.11c Sport
15 Foot Jive 5.11d Sport
16 Whippoorwill 5.11b Sport
17 Turkey Crossing 5.4 Trad
18 Buckwheats Climb for Stef 5.6 Trad
19 Stefanie Bauer Route 5.7 Trad
20 A1A 5.10b Sport
21 Yell Fire! 5.10d Sport
22 Severn Bore 5.11c Sport
23 Red Tag Rape 5.11c Sport
24 Wrong Turn 5.7 Trad
25 Banjolero 5.10c Sport
26 Deeznuts 5.8 Sport
27 Jingus Khan 5.12a Sport
28 Boilerplate 5.8 Sport
29 June Bug 5.11d Sport
30 Swallow the Hollow 5.12a Sport
31 Crossroads Crack Sport

1.11.2. Solar Collector/Gold Coast 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.734728, 37.677342

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Decline of Western Civilization 5.10a Sport 45ft, 5
2 * Super Pinch {AU} YDS:5.10d Unknown 50ft
3 *** Mona Lisa Overdrive 5.11b Unknown 59ft
4 * Green Horn {AU} YDS:5.11a Unknown 55ft
5 Chickenboy 5.11b Sport
6 Psychochicken 5.11b Sport
7 Psychopathy 5.12c Sport
8 Ethics Police 5.11d Sport
9 * Buddha Hole {AU} YDS:5.12a Sport 75ft, 8
10 Herd Mentality 5.12c Unknown
11 Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus 5.12b Sport
12 *** Supafly 5.12a Sport 70ft, 7
13 Space Junk 5.12c Sport
14 Yakuza 5.9 Trad
15 Buttsweat and Tears 5.10c Sport
16 Brambly Downslide 5.10a Sport
17 Spring Jammers and Widget Blocks 5.10d Trad
18 Damascus 5.12b Sport
19 Black Plague 5.12a Sport
20 Black Gold 5.13c Sport
21 God's Own Stone 5.14a Sport
22 Twenty Four Karats 5.14c Sport
23 Gold Star Project Unknown Project
24 100 Ounces of Gold 5.14a Sport
25 Golden Boy 5.13b Sport
26 True Love 5.13d Sport
27 Suns Out Guns Out 5.12b Sport
28 ** No Fluff 5.11d Sport 45ft, 5
29 Brilliant Orange 5.13a Sport
30 Mr. Roarke 5.12c Sport
31 Gecko Circus 5.13b Sport
32 Erik's First 5.6 5.9 Trad
33 Erik's Second 5.6 5.9 Trad
34 Smoothie Nut 5.10b Trad
35 Red Shift 5.11d Sport
36 Hand Drills and Hand Grenades 5.10d Trad
37 Dark Matter 5.11a Trad
38 Not Named 5.9 Trad
39 David and Goliath 5.12a Sport
40 Zone of Silence 5.12b Sport
41 Amelia's Birthday 5.11b Sport
42 Highway Turtle 5.11d Sport
43 From The Ashes 5.8 Trad
44 Futuristic Testpiece 5.4 Trad
45 Riptide Ride 5.10c Trad
46 Sunny The Boxer 5.9 Sport
47 Lucky Duck Soup 5.5 Sport
48 The Perfect Pint 5.4 Trad
49 Chester Fried Chicken 5.4 Trad
50 Fubar 5.10c Trad
51 Rebar 5.11a Trad
52 Broken Chicken Wing 5.9 Trad
53 Green Tea 5.9 Trad
54 Norway on my Mind 5.9 Sport
55 Slow Jack 5.7 Trad
56 Should've Known Better 5.7 Trad
57 On The Prowl 5.10a Sport
58 Peer Review 5.10b Sport
59 7-11 5.7 Sport

1.11.3. Bright Side 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.735916, 37.678859

1.11.3.1. Arch Routes 1 route in Sector
Summary:
1.11.3.2. Amphitheater Wall 3 routes in Sector
Summary:

1.11.4. Dark Side 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.737538, 37.678459

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mama Benson

FA: Rob McFall

5.12a Unknown 50ft
2 Small Fry 5.9 Unknown 40ft

1.11.5. The Far Side 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.735902, 37.673566

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Pappa love jugs 5.11d Sport

1.11.6. The Gallery 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.717305, 37.653877

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thin Skin 5.10b Trad
2 Blank Canvas 5.12c Sport
3 Banksy 5.12c Sport
4 Crude Awakening 5.10b Sport
5 Clair Obscur 5.11b Sport
6 DaVinci's Left Ear 5.10b Sport
7 Smack Dab 5.11b Sport
8 Different Strokes 5.11c Sport
9 Random Precision 5.11b Sport
10 Stucco nu 5.11+ Trad
11 Zen and the Art of Masturbation 5.12d Sport
12 The Shocker 5.14b Sport
13 Dark Side of the Flume 5.9 Trad
14 Weak Sauce Project Unknown Project
15 Gold Rush 5.11d Sport
16 Mosaic 5.12c Sport
17 All That Glitters 5.12c Unknown 70ft
18 Calm Like a Bomb 5.13a Sport
19 Break The Scene 5.12a Sport
20 The Tribute 5.13a Sport
21 All That Quivers 5.10b Trad
22 *** Happy Trails

FA: Terry Kindred

5.10b Unknown 75ft
23 The King Lives On 5.10b Sport
24 *** Johnny B. Good 5.11a Sport
25 ** 27 Years of Climbing 5.8 Unknown 65ft
26 *** Murano 5.10b Unknown 75ft
27 *** A Brief History of Climb 5.10b Sport
28 Briefer History of Climb 5.10d Trad
29 The Preacher's Daughter 5.11- Sport

1.11.7. Volunteer Wall 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.716071, 37.653998

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bleed Like Me 5.12 Unknown
2 Same Way 5.11b Unknown
3 Hurt 5.10c Unknown
4 A Chip off the old Sturnum 5.8 Unknown
5 Darwin Loves You 5.9 Sport
6 Johnny on Roofies 5.11a Sport
7 Donor 5.11b Sport
8 The Wal-Martification of Trad 5.8 Unknown
9 Family Tradition 5.10b Sport
10 *** Tong Shing

Left of "Anger Management" is this featured face with some grooves near the top. Join in the spirit of those who have gone before. Begin on two crimps just left of a stump, below and right of the first bolt to avoid the rotten rock below and to the left of the bolt line. Pull up to a pinch and then move on to the first bolt. Clip and climb on past the first bolt and left of the bolt line to the anchors.

FA: Andy Pense, Sam Watson, J.J., Jared Hancock, 2005

5.10d Sport 60ft
11 Anger Managment 5.8 Unknown
12 Nice to Know You 5.10b Sport
13 Helping Hands 5.10d Sport
14 Swap Meet 5.6 Sport
15 Farley's Folly 5.10a Sport
16 The Haas Memorial Route 5.10a Unknown
17 Stephanie's Cabaret p1 5.11c Sport
18 Stephanie's Cabaret p2 5.12a Sport
19 Four Shower Tokens, A Guiness and My Girl 5.8 Trad
20 Normalised Bramapithicus 5.10d Sport
21 First Time 5.8 Sport 50ft
22 Generosity 5.10d Sport 55ft

1.11.8. Left Field 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.715218, 37.653076

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flee From Fixer 5.5 Trad
2 Return to Zoe 5.6 Trad
3 Lowered Expectations 5.5 Sport
4 Apoplectic Chick From Missouri 5.10b Sport
5 Autograph 5.11a Sport
6 Come to Me Marie 5.8 Trad
7 If Trango Could Whistle 5.8 Trad
8 Hopscotch 5.11a Sport
9 No Love for Charlie 5.11a Sport
10 Jet Lag 5.9 Sport
11 Thru Space and Time 5.10a Sport
12 Jack Move 5.11b Sport

1.11.9. The Playground 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.714393, 37.653549

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Red Rover 5.11b Sport
2 Steal The Bacon 5.11a Sport
3 Chickenhawk 5.10d Trad
4 Jungle Gym 5.10b Sport
5 Monkey Bars 5.10a Sport 50ft
6 Capture The Flag 5.11b Sport 50ft
7 Crack The Whip 5.12a Sport 50ft
8 Octopus Tag 5.7 Trad
9 Balance Beam 5.11a Sport
10 Teeter Totter 5.11c Sport
11 Slide 5.9 Sport
12 Tire Swing 5.10a Sport

1.11.10. Shady Grove 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.713659, 37.654284

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Citizen's Arete 5.11b Sport
2 ** Girls Gone Wild...WOO! {AU} YDS:5.10d Unknown 60ft
3 Crucify Me 5.11c Sport
4 Who Knows? 5.11d Sport
5 Which is Which? 5.11c Sport
6 Who is Who? 5.11d Sport
7 Coming Out Party 5.11d Sport
8 Far From God 5.12b Sport
9 False Idol 5.12b Sport
10 Irreverent C 5.12c Sport
11 Imagine There's No Heaven 5.12b Sport
12 Taste The Rainbow 5.13a Sport
13 Shaved Squirrel 5.10d Sport
14 Pile Driver 5.12d Sport
15 Listerine Girl 5.9 Sport
16 Street Fight 5.10a Sport

1.11.11. Bronaugh Wall 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.711063, 37.653707

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spyder's Hangout 5.10a Sport
2 Little Teapot 5.12a Sport
3 Jingus 5.11b Sport
4 Collision Damage 5.11d Sport
5 Crumblies 5.12a Sport
6 Belly of the Beast 5.12c Sport
7 Dirty Girl 5.10a Unknown
8 Two Women Alone 5.11a Sport
9 Like a Turtle 5.11b Sport
10 Take the Scary Out of Life 5.10d Sport
11 (Adam Taylor's Insane UBER Project)

The line of 20+ quickdraws out the humongous amphitheater. Beyond futuristic.

Sport Project

1.11.12. Purgatory 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.709257, 37.653586

Access Issues:

Land is owned by the RRGCC.

Approach:

From the Sore Heal Parking area go uphill to the right of the parking area. Follow the signs. Out past the areas Left Field, Playground, and Bronaugh Wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Butterfly Gangbang 5.8 Trad
2 Looking Through The Devil's Window 5.6 Trad
3 Mist of Funk 5.10b Trad
4 Skunk Love 5.11b Sport
5 Stirrin' The Grits 5.11c Sport
6 ** Believer {AU} YDS:5.11b Unknown 60ft
7 Special Boy {AU} YDS:5.11c Unknown 75ft
8 Fallen Angel 5.11c Trad
9 Gluttony 5.12a Sport
10 Fat Man's Misery 5.4 Trad
11 The Proverbial Donkey 5.11a Trad
12 Dracula '04 5.13b Sport
13 Lucifer 5.14c Sport
14 The Castle Has Fallen 5.13b Sport
15 Paradise Lost 5.13a Sport
16 Paradise Regained 5.13b Sport
17 Hellraiser 5.12c Sport
18 The Gimp 5.10a Sport
19 Back in The Days of Bold 5.11c Trad
20 Jumbo Shrimp 5.10a Sport
21 The Seventh Circle of Dante 5.10a Trad

1.11.13. What About Bob Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -83.714807, 37.650984

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Sleep 'Til Campton 5.10b Unknown 80ft
2 Alternative Medicines 5.7 Unknown 75ft

1.11.14. Rival Wall 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.712870, 37.651474

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hatfield 5.10d Sport 80ft, 9
2 Delayed Gratification 5.10c Sport 80ft, 9
3 McCoy

FA: Jeff Neal, Matt Jones

5.10c Sport 70ft, 9
4 Epic Indicator 5.9 Trad 70ft
5 Rorschach Inkblot Test

Very hard start for the grade. This would be a demoralizing climb for someone whose tope grade is 5.8 or 5.9.

5.8 Sport 50ft, 5
6 *** Monobrow

Fantastic arrete slab climb. Very smooth.

5.10a Sport 50ft, 5
7 The Cheerleader Catch 5.6 Trad 55ft
8 Cork Eye 5.12a Sport 55ft, 7
9 Lobster Claw 5.12a Sport 55ft, 7
10 Days of Thunder 5.9 Sport 60ft, 5
11 May As Well 5.7 Trad 80ft

1.11.15. Courtesy Wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.711290, 37.651779

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Go Home Yankee

FA: Matt Tackett, Charlie Rittenberry, 2006

5.12a Sport 75ft, 7
2 Wearing Out My Welcome

FA: Jason Haas, Equipped Matt Tackett, 2006

5.12a Sport 80ft, 8
3 Welcomed Guest

FA: Jason Hass, 2006

5.11d Sport 85ft, 10
4 Kiss It All Better

FA: Dan Beck, Catherine Harrison, 2006

5.8 Trad 90ft
5 STD

FA: Sandy Davies,Tina Bronaugh, Dana Weller, 2006

5.10a Sport 70ft, 7
6 Tweaked Unit

FA: Wes Allen,Stephanie Meadows, JATD crew, 2006

5.11b Sport 70ft, 9
7 Aural Pleasure

FA: Wes Allen, JATD crew, 2006

5.11a Sport 70ft, 7
8 The Climbing Corpse Cometh

FA: Jason Hass,Matt Tackett, Don McGlone, 2006

5.10d Trad 60ft
9 Jackie the Stripper

FA: Jordan Wood, 2008

5.12b Mixed 70ft, 2
10 Sore Heal OP

Open Project

5.12d Sport Project 90ft, 8
11 Trad is His Son

FA: Matt Tackett, Jeremy Egleston, 2005

5.8 Trad 65ft
12 Buenos Hermanos

FA: Jeff Castro, Dan Spalding, 2012

5.10b Sport 50ft, 5
13 And They Called it A Route

FA: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas, 2006

5.8 R Trad 50ft

1.11.16. The Shire 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.709991, 37.651735

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** My Name is Earl 5.11c Sport 30ft, 3
2 ** Pee-Wee 5.7 Sport 35ft, 4
3 * Audie 5.8 Sport 35ft, 4
4 ** Miranda Rayne 5.9 Sport 45ft, 7
5 *** The G-Man 5.10c Sport 40ft, 6
6 *** Significant Other 5.10b Sport 40ft, 4
7 *** Bulldozer 5.10a Sport 40ft, 4
8 ** Buffalo Crickets 5.10b Trad 45ft
9 Iron Mike (Project) 5.13+ Sport Project 90ft, 8
10 *** K.S.B. 5.10d Sport 60ft, 4
11 *** Earth-Bound Misfit 5.12c Sport 50ft, 4
12 *** Team Wilander 5.11c Sport 40ft, 4
13 ** Mis-Conception 5.12b Sport 60ft, 5

1.11.17. North 40 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.708136, 37.652033

Unique Features And Strengths:

Quality of routes instead of quantity of routes

Approach:

Follow the approach to the Shire, but continue on to the huge and obvious amphitheater

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Amarillo Sunset

Huge moves onto great holds. Feels longer and higher than 50 ft.

5.11b Sport 50ft, 7
2 Swine Flew

FA: Bentley Brackett, Kipp Trummel, 2006

5.13b Sport 80ft, 8
3 Samurai

FA: Ray Ellington,Kipp Trummel, 2006

5.12b Sport 55ft, 6
4 Barbed Wire

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2006

5.12b Sport 55ft, 6
5 Yosemite Sam

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2006

5.12a Sport 55ft, 7
6 Outlaw Justice

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2006

5.11d Sport 55ft, 8
7 Pistol Gripped

FA: Kris Hampton,Justin Riddell, Kipp Trummel, 2006

5.12a Mixed 55ft, 4
8 Summer Breeze

.25 - 3 Camalots

FA: Josh Thurston, Jordan Garvey, 2006

5.8 Trad

1.11.18. Curbside 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.718773, 37.651577

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Waltz the Deal 5.10a Sport
2 Sudoku 5.10a Sport
3 Action over Apathy 5.10b Sport
4 The Return of Frank Byron 5.12c Sport
5 Curbside No Traction 5.10c Sport
6 The Ankle Brute 5.11a Sport
7 The Second Labour of Hercules 5.10c Sport
8 Single Finger Salute 5.10c Sport
9 Ghost in the Machine 5.10d Sport
10 Subtle Thievery 5.11c Sport
11 Conscription 5.11c Sport
12 Avalanche Run 5.11d Sport
13 Wildfire 5.12a Sport
14 Outbreak 5.12b Sport
15 Thunder 5.12c Sport
16 Massive Attack 5.12a Sport

1.11.19. Chica Bonita Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -83.721197, 37.651259

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great slab routes can be found here

Approach:

Walk past the Motherlode, then take the left fork that goes uphill. Continue following this road past intersecting roads, until you reach the third road on the right. Follow this road to an oil pump near a cliff, then head down the trail on the right side of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Dude Abides

Great technical movement onto overhanging pockets. Probably sandbagged.

5.11a Sport 7
2 Brown-Eyed Girl

Technical, slabby face climbing

5.10a Sport 70ft, 6
3 Baby Blue Eyes

Technical face climbing

5.10c Sport 75ft, 7
4 She Might Be a Liar

Technical, committing face climbing

5.11b Sport 75ft, 8

1.11.20. Bob Marley Crag 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -83.722816, 37.652106

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Where's JJ?

FA: Mark Ryan, 2012

5.10a Sport 35ft, 4
2 Waiting For JJ

Set by Eric Davenport,Mark Ryan, 2009

5.9 Sport 35ft, 5
3 Mentee

FA: Sarah Gross, 2014

5.11 Sport 50ft, 7
4 Mentor

FA: Sarah Gross,Troy Davison, 2014

5.11 Sport 45ft, 7
5 Gettin' Ziggy With It

FA: Sarah Gross, 2014

5.7 Trad 45ft
6 Dreadlocked

FA: Troy Davison, 2013

5.12b Sport 50ft, 7
7 Crosley

FA: Andrew Wheatley,Mike Wheatley,Phil Wilkes, Arthur Cammers

5.11c Sport 80ft, 8
8 Toker

FA: Jason McCleanen, 2005

5.11a Sport 70ft, 8
9 Moment of Truth

FA: Andrew Gearing, Dustin Stephens, 2012

5.12c Mixed 90ft, 2
10 Archangel

FA: Sarah Gross, 2014

5.12 Sport 65ft, 10
11 No Redemption

FA: Kenny Barker, 2006

5.13b Sport 70ft, 9
12 Sugar Magnolia

FA: Andrew Gearing, 2006

5.13d Sport 85ft, 10
13 Demon Seed

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2009

5.12c Sport 100ft, 9
14 *** Dogleg

FA: Unknown

5.12a Sport 90ft, 10
15 Stone Pipe

FA: Jordan Stein, 2011

5.12c Sport 90ft, 10
16 Beeper

FA: Keith Moll

5.11d Sport 70ft, 8
17 Slampiece BAM!

FA: Brendan Leader, 2012

5.13a Sport 50ft, 6
18 MILF Money

FA: Sean McColl, 2007

5.13b Sport 60ft, 7
19 Granny Panties

FA: Kenny Barker, 2007

5.12c Sport 70ft, 6
20 Tony's Happy Christmas Crack

FA: Jack Hume,Tony Tramontin,Steve McFarland,Gene Hume, David Hume

5.8 Trad
21 Mas Choss

FA: Kelley Gorder, 1996

5.11c Sport 80ft, 7
22 Route 22

FA: Dave Hume

5.12a Sport 80ft, 7
23 Your Heaven My Hell

Estimated to go at 5.15- Open project

5.15a Sport Project 65ft, 6
24 Fifty Words For Pump

FA: Mickael Fuselier, 2007

5.14c Sport 90ft, 11
25 Souther Smoke Direct

FA: Adam Taylor, 2011

5.15a Sport 90ft, 10
26 Southern Smoke

FA: Joe Kinder, 2008

5.14c Sport 90ft, 10
27 Ultra Perm

FA: Chris Martin

5.13d Sport 90ft, 9
28 Skinny Love

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2011

5.12d Sport 90ft, 10
29 Horn

FA: Chris Martin, 1997

5.11d Sport 60ft, 5
30 Flush

FA: Chris Martin, 1997

5.11d Sport 50ft, 4
31 Velvet

FA: Chris Martin, 1997

5.11d Sport 50ft, 5
32 Tacit

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1997

5.12a Sport 50ft, 5
33 Reticent

FA: Porter Jarrard

5.12d Sport 50ft, 6
34 Blood Bath

FA: Chris Martin, 1997

5.12c Sport 50ft, 6
35 Where's The Beef?

FA: Chris Martin

5.12c Sport 50ft, 5
36 Bettavul Pipeline

FA: Mark Johnson, Drew Cronan, 2006

5.12a Sport 55ft, 5
37 Eyeball Chaw

FA: Brendan Leader, 2012

5.12a Sport 60ft, 8
38 El Encuentro

FA: Daniel Du Lac, 2007

5.13b Sport 90ft, 11
39 The Rube Goldberg Experiment

FA: The Hume Brothers, 1998

5.9 Trad 90ft
40 Fungus Among Us

FA: Scott Curran, 2013

5.12c Sport 75ft, 7
41 Green Machine

FA: Sarah Gross, 2014

5.12 Sport 45ft, 4
42 Loan Shark

FA: Zachary Lesch-Huie, Dustin Stephens, 2012

5.9 Trad 55ft
43 Uncle Ferdouz

FA: Siamak Pazirandeh, Dustin Stephens, 2012

5.10d Sport 35ft
44 Peel It Back

FA: Siamak Pazirandeh, Dustin Stephens, 2012

5.12b Sport 45ft, 5
45 Technical Difficulties

FA: Siamak Pazirandeh, Dustin Stephens, 2012

5.12b Sport 45ft, 5
46 Cromper's Mom

FA: Dustin Stephens, Zachary Lesch-Huie, 2012

5.5 X Trad 70ft
47 Tickets to the Shitshow

FA: Dustin Stephens, Siamak Pazirandeh, 2012

5.9 Trad 70ft
48 Tikka Chance 5.9 Sport

1.11.21. Drive-By Crag 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -83.724436, 37.652713

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Slim and the 9mm 5.10b Sport 45ft
2 Slut Men 5.11d Unknown
3 Hakuna Matata 5.12a Unknown
4 Extra Backup 5.12a Unknown
5 *** Fire and Brimstone 5.10d Sport
6 Naked Lunch 5.12a Sport
7 *** Breakfast Burrito 5.10d Sport 82ft
8 Brave New World

Great and interesting line that wanders like an old trad line. Nice addition to the wall. Quick lock lower offs at anchors

5.10b Sport 59ft, 8
9 Make a Wish 5.10b Sport 59ft, 10
10 Whipper Snapper 5.12b Unknown
11 *** Check Your Grip 5.12a Unknown