A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Red Spring Area 120 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -115.421979, 36.144354

Description:

These are climbs generally accessed from the Red Springs Picnic Area parking lot, or another parking lot a short distance farther along Calico Basin Drive.

Since these climbs are not accessed from the main loop, but from Calico Basin Drive, you are not stuck driving the (longish) loop road.

Access Issues: inherited from Calico Basin

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

1.1. Moderate Mecca 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: -115.422666, 36.142523

Description:

An easily approached cliff with lots of single-pitch trad routes of moderate grade.

Descent Notes:

Generally rappel off anchors. Often several climbs will share a rap anchor.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Side Effects

Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.

5.10+Sport 7
2 * Unknown 5.7 5.7Unknown 33ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Bad Soup

Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.

5.9Mixed 25ft, 3
4 Stew on This 5.10Mixed 2
5 Is It Soup Yet? 5.10Mixed 1
6 Chicken Soup for the Soul 5.10Top rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo 5.6Trad 33ft
8 Soupy Sales 5.6Trad 33ft
9 From Soup to Nuts 5.7Trad 33ft
10 The Singing Love Pen 5.9Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 ** Valentine's Day 5.8Trad 49ft
12 Ace of Hearts 5.10+Trad
13 Immoral 5.10dTrad 80ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Pending Disaster 5.9Unknown
15 Pending Project 5.9 A2Aid
16 Penny Lane 5.3Trad
17 Abbey Road

A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.

5.4Trad 90ft
18 * Fleet Street

Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.

Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.

5.8Mixed 2
19 Muckraker 5.8Trad
20 * Scalawag 5.10Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Boodler 5.8Trad
22 Carpetbagger 5.6Trad
23 Mugwump

TR from the common anchor -- start on the boulder and pull up the steep/overhanging pink face to easier ground.

5.10Top rope
24 The Haj 5.9Trad
25 Sir Climbalot 5.7Trad
26 The Route to Mecca 5.7Trad
27 Treacherous Journey 5.9 RTrad

1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A low cliff band, about 100 yards right of the parking area.

Descent Notes:

Most of the climbs top-out on the large terrace that is the base for Red Springs Rock. Can walk off either side, whichever is closer.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Han Soloing 5.4Trad 70ft
2 Han Soloing Variation 1 5.8Trad
3 Han Soloing Variaion 2 5.10Trad
4 *** Aliens Have Landed 5.9Trad 82ft
5 Carrie Fissure 5.8Trad 70ft
6 Obie-One Keone 5.8 XTrad 70ft
7 Shallow Fried Cracken 5.9Trad 70ft
8 Gold Bikini and Cinnamon Bun Hairdo / Gold Bikini 5.10- RMixed 80ft, 1

1.3. Red Spring Rock 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -115.420322, 36.142778

Description:

A series of buttresses rising from the terrace above Jabba the Hut Rock.

Routes listed right-to-left.

Approach:

Climb up the steep hillside.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Attack Dogs / Acess Fun 5.10+Trad 90ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. Town 5.8 RMixed 90ft, 4
3 Flying Pumpkin 5.9 RTrad 90ft
4 ** Classic Corner

I really liked this route as a lead. It is 5.8 if you use holds on the face, 5.9 if you stay in the crack. Protection is abundant although there are a couple of run outs.

5.8Trad 150ft
5 Badger's Buttress 5.6Trad 100ft
6 Rocky Road 5.10Trad 120ft
7 Love on the Rocks 5.12+Mixed 60ft, 5
8 Allied Forces / Love Hurts 5.11Trad 60ft
9 Contempt of Court 5.12-Mixed 90ft, 9
10 Habeas Corpus 5.10Trad 40ft
11 Haberdasher 5.10+Trad 40ft
12 Boulder Dash 5.10dTrad 100ft
13 Black Licorice 5.9Mixed 120ft, 2
14 Red Vines 5.8Trad 120ft

1.4. Coco Crag 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope
Description:

A varnished wall up and right from Jabba the Hut, it is the right-end of Red Springs wall, but rather than being climbed from the terrace that goes up and leftwards, it is climbed from the gully up and right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hidden Meaning

Climb the face on the right inside the chimney.

5.9Top rope 90ft
2 ** Cocopuss

Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.

5.10bSport 60ft, 9
3 Stupid Cat

Bolt route just to the right of Cocopuss.

5.10dSport 55ft
4 Fontanar de Rojo 5.8Trad 150ft
5 Ruta de Roja 5.7Trad 150ft

1.5. Cannibal Crag 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

With an easy approach and a variety of good routes at many grades, this is a popular cliff.

Approach:

Follow the obvious trail west (rightwards) along the hillside. Cannibal Crag is the obvious prow sticking out low on the hillside, just to the left of the trail.

1.5.1. East Side 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The east side of Cannibal Crag -- the side you see as you approach from the Red Springs parking lot.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Maneater 5.12aSport 25ft, 4
2 Wonderstuff 5.12dSport 30ft
3 *** New Wave Hookers 5.12cSport 35ft
4 Fear this Sport 5.12bSport 30ft
5 Caliban 5.8Mixed 80ft, 3
6 Cannibal Crack / You Are What You Eat 5.4Trad 90ft
7 Baseboy 5.10dMixed 60ft, 4
8 ** Baseboy Direct 5.11aSport 60ft, 7
9 Save the Heart to Eat Later 5.12aSport 60ft
10 Pickled 5.11cSport 50ft
11 ** Caustic / Caustic Cock

The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.

5.11bSport 50ft

1.5.2. West Side 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

West side of Cannibal Crag, the other side from the approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Have a Beer with Fear 5.11aSport 30ft, 4
2 Fear This 5.11+Sport 30ft, 3
3 Elbows of Mac and Ronnie 5.10dSport 45ft, 4
4 What's Eating You?

FA: Todd Swain, Randy Schenkel, and Andy Schenkel

5.9Sport 45ft, 3
5 A Man in Every Pot

FA: Debbie Brenchley and Todd Swain

5.8Sport 40ft, 3
6 Mac and Ronnie in Cheese

FA: Todd Swain and Debbie Brenchley

5.10-Sport 45ft, 4
7 Ma and Pa in Kettle 5.7Mixed 50ft, 3

1.5.3. Nearby Stuff 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Description:

Other routes nearby that don't have an area of their own.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shit Howdy 5.10+Trad 50ft
2 Risk Brothers Roof 5.11Trad 60ft
3 Zona Rosa 5.9Trad 40ft
4 Shishka Bob 5.6 XUnknown

1.6. Riding Hood Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

A large slabby buttress mid-way up.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Riding Hood

Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.

5.8Trad 350ft
2 ** Unknown sport route

The newish bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical grafitti. 1st pitch climbs steep juggy wall starting off raised platform around left of Physical grafitti. Please update this description if you know the route name or history.

5.9Sport 330ft
3 *** Physical Graffiti

FA: Jon Martinet, Randal Grandstaff and Scott Gordon

5.6Trad 310ft
4 Over the Hill to Grandmother's House

A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.

FA: Bob Logerquist, John Williamson

5.9Trad 120ft
5 Lil' Red 5.9Trad 150ft
6 Lil Red - variation

About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.

5.9Trad 300ft

1.7. Ranch Hands Crag 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Payless Cashways 5.11aUnknown
2 Spanky 5.11-Unknown
3 Mexican Secret Agent Man 5.11bUnknown
4 Swilderness Experience 5.11cUnknown
5 Swilderness Permit 5.12cUnknown
6 Roman Meal 5.11Unknown
7 Roman Hands 5.4 XUnknown
8 Jack Officers 5.12cUnknown
9 Ranch Hands 5.12cUnknown
10 Blood Stains 5.10 XUnknown
11 The Fox

Not really part of Ranch Hands Crag, this is up above Ranch Hands and Dickie Cliff -- about mid-way between the two of them.

A clean-cut right-facing corner.

5.10+Unknown
12 Unknown 1 5.11bUnknown
13 Unknown 2 5.11Unknown

1.8. Dickies Cliff 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gigantor 5.10Unknown
2 Guys and Ghouls 5.6Unknown
3 Boobytrap 5.12cUnknown
4 Stukas over Disneyland 5.12-Unknown
5 Lancaster Levels Luxor 5.9Unknown
6 Monster Island 5.11Unknown

1.9. Gnat Man Crag 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 P-Coat Junction 5.9Unknown
2 P-Coat Sleeve 5.10-Unknown
3 Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun 5.7Unknown
4 * Gnat Man on Ranch Hands 5.11Unknown
5 * Knock the Bottom out of It 5.10 PG13Unknown
6 Bottoms up 5.7Unknown
7 Cow Lick Co. Crag 5.7Unknown

1.10. Happy Acres 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Life Chuckle 5.8Unknown
2 Spontaneous Enjoyment 5.8Unknown
3 Mothers of Invention 5.10cUnknown
4 Mom and Apple Pie 5.9Unknown
5 Mother's Day 5.9Unknown
6 Happy Acres 5.7Unknown
7 Happy Acres Variation 5.10Unknown
8 The Dividing Line 5.11+Unknown

1.11. Cowlick Crag 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unnamed 5.6Unknown
2 ** Cowlick Co. Crag 5.7Unknown
3 * Flying Chuckawalla 5.7 RUnknown
4 * Unnamed2 5.7Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.3 Penny Lane Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
5.4 Abbey Road Trad 90ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Han Soloing Trad 70ft 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Cannibal Crack Trad 90ft 1.5.1. East Side
Roman Hands Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
5.6 Carpetbagger Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo Trad 33ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Soupy Sales Trad 33ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Badger's Buttress Trad 100ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Shishka Bob Unknown 1.5.3. Nearby Stuff
*** Physical Graffiti Trad 310ft 1.6. Riding Hood Wall
Guys and Ghouls Unknown 1.8. Dickies Cliff
* Unnamed Unknown 1.11. Cowlick Crag
5.7 From Soup to Nuts Trad 33ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Sir Climbalot Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
The Route to Mecca Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
* Unknown 5.7 Unknown 33ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Ruta de Roja Trad 150ft 1.4. Coco Crag
Ma and Pa in Kettle Mixed 50ft, 3 1.5.2. West Side
Bottoms up Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
Cow Lick Co. Crag Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
Happy Acres Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
** Cowlick Co. Crag Unknown 1.11. Cowlick Crag
* Flying Chuckawalla Unknown 1.11. Cowlick Crag
* Unnamed2 Unknown 1.11. Cowlick Crag
5.8 Boodler Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
* Fleet Street Mixed 2 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Muckraker Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
** Valentine's Day Trad 49ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Carrie Fissure Trad 70ft 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Han Soloing Variation 1 Trad 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Obie-One Keone Trad 70ft 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
** Classic Corner Trad 150ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Red Vines Trad 120ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. Town Mixed 90ft, 4 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Fontanar de Rojo Trad 150ft 1.4. Coco Crag
Caliban Mixed 80ft, 3 1.5.1. East Side
A Man in Every Pot Sport 40ft, 3 1.5.2. West Side
Riding Hood Trad 350ft 1.6. Riding Hood Wall
Spontaneous Enjoyment Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
The Life Chuckle Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
5.9 Bad Soup Mixed 25ft, 3 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Pending Disaster Unknown 1.1. Moderate Mecca
The Haj Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
The Singing Love Pen Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Treacherous Journey Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
*** Aliens Have Landed Trad 82ft 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Shallow Fried Cracken Trad 70ft 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Black Licorice Mixed 120ft, 2 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Flying Pumpkin Trad 90ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Hidden Meaning Top rope 90ft 1.4. Coco Crag
What's Eating You? Sport 45ft, 3 1.5.2. West Side
Zona Rosa Trad 40ft 1.5.3. Nearby Stuff
Lil Red - variation Trad 300ft 1.6. Riding Hood Wall
Lil' Red Trad 150ft 1.6. Riding Hood Wall
Over the Hill to Grandmother's House Trad 120ft 1.6. Riding Hood Wall
** Unknown sport route Sport 330ft 1.6. Riding Hood Wall
Lancaster Levels Luxor Unknown 1.8. Dickies Cliff
P-Coat Junction Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
Mom and Apple Pie Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
Mother's Day Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
5.9 A2 Pending Project Aid 1.1. Moderate Mecca
5.10- Gold Bikini and Cinnamon Bun Hairdo Mixed 80ft, 1 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese Sport 45ft, 4 1.5.2. West Side
P-Coat Sleeve Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
5.10b ** Cocopuss Sport 60ft, 9 1.4. Coco Crag
5.10c Mothers of Invention Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
5.10 Chicken Soup for the Soul Top rope 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Is It Soup Yet? Mixed 1 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Mugwump Top rope 1.1. Moderate Mecca
* Scalawag Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Stew on This Mixed 2 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Han Soloing Variaion 2 Trad 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock
Habeas Corpus Trad 40ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Rocky Road Trad 120ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Blood Stains Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Gigantor Unknown 1.8. Dickies Cliff
* Knock the Bottom out of It Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
Happy Acres Variation Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
5.10d Immoral Trad 80ft 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Boulder Dash Trad 100ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Stupid Cat Sport 55ft 1.4. Coco Crag
Baseboy Mixed 60ft, 4 1.5.1. East Side
Elbows of Mac and Ronnie Sport 45ft, 4 1.5.2. West Side
5.10+ Ace of Hearts Trad 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Side Effects Sport 7 1.1. Moderate Mecca
Attack Dogs Trad 90ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Haberdasher Trad 40ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Shit Howdy Trad 50ft 1.5.3. Nearby Stuff
The Fox Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
5.11- Spanky Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
5.11a ** Baseboy Direct Sport 60ft, 7 1.5.1. East Side
Have a Beer with Fear Sport 30ft, 4 1.5.2. West Side
Payless Cashways Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
5.11b ** Caustic Sport 50ft 1.5.1. East Side
Mexican Secret Agent Man Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Unknown 1 Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
5.11c Pickled Sport 50ft 1.5.1. East Side
Swilderness Experience Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
5.11 Allied Forces Trad 60ft 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Risk Brothers Roof Trad 60ft 1.5.3. Nearby Stuff
Roman Meal Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Unknown 2 Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Monster Island Unknown 1.8. Dickies Cliff
* Gnat Man on Ranch Hands Unknown 1.9. Gnat Man Crag
5.11+ Fear This Sport 30ft, 3 1.5.2. West Side
The Dividing Line Unknown 1.10. Happy Acres
5.12- Contempt of Court Mixed 90ft, 9 1.3. Red Spring Rock
Stukas over Disneyland Unknown 1.8. Dickies Cliff
5.12a Maneater Sport 25ft, 4 1.5.1. East Side
Save the Heart to Eat Later Sport 60ft 1.5.1. East Side
5.12b Fear this Sport Sport 30ft 1.5.1. East Side
5.12c *** New Wave Hookers Sport 35ft 1.5.1. East Side
Jack Officers Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Ranch Hands Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Swilderness Permit Unknown 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag
Boobytrap Unknown 1.8. Dickies Cliff
5.12d Wonderstuff Sport 30ft 1.5.1. East Side
5.12+ Love on the Rocks Mixed 60ft, 5 1.3. Red Spring Rock