A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. Red Spring Area
120 in Crag
- 1.1. Moderate Mecca 27 in Cliff
- 1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock 8 in Cliff
- 1.3. Red Spring Rock 14 in Cliff
- 1.4. Coco Crag 5 in Cliff
- 1.5. Cannibal Crag 22 in Cliff
- 1.6. Riding Hood Wall 6 in Cliff
- 1.7. Ranch Hands Crag 13 in Area
- 1.8. Dickies Cliff 6 in Area
- 1.9. Gnat Man Crag 7 in Area
- 1.10. Happy Acres 8 in Area
- 1.11. Cowlick Crag 4 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Unknown and other styles
Long/Lat: -115.421979, 36.144354
These are climbs generally accessed from the Red Springs Picnic Area parking lot, or another parking lot a short distance farther along Calico Basin Drive.
Since these climbs are not accessed from the main loop, but from Calico Basin Drive, you are not stuck driving the (longish) loop road.
- Access Issues: inherited from Calico Basin
There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.
Trad, Top Rope and other styles
Long/Lat: -115.422666, 36.142523
An easily approached cliff with lots of single-pitch trad routes of moderate grade.
- Descent Notes:
Generally rappel off anchors. Often several climbs will share a rap anchor.
Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.
Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.
|4||Stew on This||5.10 PG||2|
|5||Is It Soup Yet?||5.10 PG||1|
|6||Chicken Soup for the Soul||5.10|
|7||Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo||5.6||33ft|
|9||From Soup to Nuts||5.7||33ft|
|10||The Singing Love Pen||5.9|
|12||Ace of Hearts||5.10+|
|15||Pending Project||5.9 A2|
A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.
Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.
Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.
TR from the common anchor -- start on the boulder and pull up the steep/overhanging pink face to easier ground.
|25||Sir Climbalot||5.7 PG|
|26||The Route to Mecca||5.7|
|27||Treacherous Journey||5.9 R|
A low cliff band, about 100 yards right of the parking area.
- Descent Notes:
Most of the climbs top-out on the large terrace that is the base for Red Springs Rock. Can walk off either side, whichever is closer.
|2||Han Soloing Variation 1||5.8|
|3||Han Soloing Variaion 2||5.10|
|4||Aliens Have Landed||5.9||82ft|
|6||Obie-One Keone||5.8 X||70ft|
|7||Shallow Fried Cracken||5.9 PG||70ft|
|8||Gold Bikini and Cinnamon Bun Hairdo / Gold Bikini||5.10- R||180ft,|
Long/Lat: -115.420322, 36.142778
A series of buttresses rising from the terrace above Jabba the Hut Rock.
Routes listed right-to-left.
Climb up the steep hillside.
|1||Attack Dogs / Acess Fun||5.10+||90ft|
|2||Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. Town||5.8 R||490ft,|
|3||Flying Pumpkin||5.9 R||90ft|
I really liked this route as a lead. It is 5.8 if you use holds on the face, 5.9 if you stay in the crack. Protection is abundant although there are a couple of run outs.
|7||Love on the Rocks||5.12+||560ft,|
|8||Allied Forces / Love Hurts||5.11||60ft|
|9||Contempt of Court||5.12-||990ft,|
|12||Boulder Dash||5.10d PG||100ft|
|13||Black Licorice||5.9 PG||2120ft,|
Trad, Sport and Top Rope
A varnished wall up and right from Jabba the Hut, it is the right-end of Red Springs wall, but rather than being climbed from the terrace that goes up and leftwards, it is climbed from the gully up and right.
Climb the face on the right inside the chimney.
Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.
Bolt route just to the right of Cocopuss.
|4||Fontanar de Rojo||5.8||150ft|
|5||Ruta de Roja||5.7||150ft|
Sport, Trad and Unknown
With an easy approach and a variety of good routes at many grades, this is a popular cliff.
Follow the obvious trail west (rightwards) along the hillside. Cannibal Crag is the obvious prow sticking out low on the hillside, just to the left of the trail.
Sport and Trad
The east side of Cannibal Crag -- the side you see as you approach from the Red Springs parking lot.
|3||New Wave Hookers||5.12c||35ft|
|4||Fear this Sport||5.12b||30ft|
|6||Cannibal Crack / You Are What You Eat||5.4||90ft|
|9||Save the Heart to Eat Later||5.12a||60ft|
Caustic / Caustic Cock
The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.
West side of Cannibal Crag, the other side from the approach.
|1||Have a Beer with Fear||5.11a||430ft,|
|3||Elbows of Mac and Ronnie||5.10d||445ft,|
What's Eating You?
FA: Todd Swain, Randy Schenkel, and Andy Schenkel
A Man in Every Pot
FA: Debbie Brenchley and Todd Swain
Mac and Ronnie in Cheese
FA: Todd Swain and Debbie Brenchley
|7||Ma and Pa in Kettle||5.7||350ft,|
Trad and Unknown
Other routes nearby that don't have an area of their own.
|2||Risk Brothers Roof||5.11||60ft|
|4||Shishka Bob||5.6 X|
A large slabby buttress mid-way up.
Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.
Big Bad Wolf
The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical grafitti. 1st pitch climbs steep juggy wall starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall. Walk off or rap off, either way is a great addition to the adventure.
P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.
FA: Jon Martinet, Randal Grandstaff and Scott Gordon
Over the Hill to Grandmother's House
A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.
FA: Bob Logerquist, John Williamson
|5||Lil' Red||5.9 PG||150ft|
Lil Red - variation
About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.
|3||Mexican Secret Agent Man||5.11b|
|7||Roman Hands||5.4 X|
|10||Blood Stains||5.10 X|
A clean-cut right-facing corner.
|2||Guys and Ghouls||5.6|
|4||Stukas over Disneyland||5.12-|
|5||Lancaster Levels Luxor||5.9|
Unknown and Trad
|3||Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun||5.7||100ft|
|4||Gnat Man on Ranch Hands||5.11|
|5||Knock the Bottom out of It||5.10 PG13|
|7||Cow Lick Co. Crag||5.7|
|1||The Life Chuckle||5.8|
|3||Mothers of Invention||5.10c|
|4||Mom and Apple Pie||5.9|
|6||Happy Acres||5.7 PG|
|7||Happy Acres Variation||5.10|
|8||The Dividing Line||5.11+|
|2||Cowlick Co. Crag||5.7|
|3||Flying Chuckawalla||5.7 R|