Nodes in Red Spring Area

These are climbs generally accessed from the Red Springs Picnic Area parking lot, or another parking lot a short distance farther along Calico Basin Drive.

Since these climbs are not accessed from the main loop, but from Calico Basin Drive, you are not stuck driving the (longish) loop road.

An easily approached cliff with lots of single-pitch trad routes of moderate grade.

Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.

Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.

Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

TR from the common anchor -- start on the boulder and pull up the steep/overhanging pink face to easier ground.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

A low cliff band, about 100 yards right of the parking area.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Unknown sport route left of Shallow Fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.

Face climb to the right of Shallow fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.-

Crack is generally too shallow for jamming but lots of face moves keep the climbing pretty mellow. Protection is tricky with lots of passive placements and generally small cams. Tricams will work here. Bolted anchors.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

A series of buttresses rising from the terrace above Jabba the Hut Rock.

Routes listed right-to-left.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

I really liked this route as a lead. It is 5.8 if you use holds on the face, 5.9 if you stay in the crack. Protection is abundant although there are a couple of run outs.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

A varnished wall up and right from Jabba the Hut, it is the right-end of Red Springs wall, but rather than being climbed from the terrace that goes up and leftwards, it is climbed from the gully up and right.

Climb the face on the right inside the chimney.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Bolt route just to the right of Cocopuss.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

With an easy approach and a variety of good routes at many grades, this is a popular cliff.

The east side of Cannibal Crag -- the side you see as you approach from the Red Springs parking lot.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.

West side of Cannibal Crag, the other side from the approach.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Other routes nearby that don't have an area of their own.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

A large slabby buttress mid-way up.

Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall.

The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti.

P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts.

P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts.

P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts.

Descent:

Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully.

Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m!

Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels.

P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.