A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Kraft Mountain 127 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -115.415344, 36.164792

Description:

Kraft Mountain is the mass that forms the northern side of Calico Basin, as a crag it includes a number of cliffs on both sides of Gateway Canyon, the canyon between Kraft Mountain and the the ridge north/north-east of it.

Access Issues: inherited from Calico Basin

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Approach:

From the parking lot/circle where Sandstone drive takes a 90 degree left turn, hike north towards the mountain, then around one side or the other to reach the various cliffs.

1.1. Kraft Boulders 27 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -115.413887, 36.160022

Description:

Large, popular boulder field at the base of the south side of Kraft Mountain.

1.1.1. The Black Bitch 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Established long ago, in the age before sticky rubber, The Black Bitch requires techy footwork it is located just north of the warm-up boulder and features nice, shear varnished rock.

Approach:

See Description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Right Arete

Stand start and climb the arete with nice sidepulls.

V0 Boulder

1.1.2. Pretzel Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This boulder lies tucked into the cluster behind and northeast of the Black Bitch.

Approach:

See Description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Traverse

Start as for Pretzel V6 and continue left along a good rail. Top out when turning the corner. Pretzel V6 eliminates the rail feature.

V2 Boulder

1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder 16 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This popular boulder, often provides a social meeting spot and good place to start the day. Despite the name there are a handful of hard problems and eliminates here.

History:

In the early 80's, Lynn hill was known to traverse laps around this boulder. since then many of the holds have broken off and it is unclear if the traverse is still possible. The problems were not named by early climbers such as Scott Gordon and Richard Harrison. the names used here are the common names used in the modern day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prefunk V0 Boulder 14ft
2 ** Fluffer V2 Boulder 15ft
3 Rub One Off V6 Boulder 15ft
4 centre V8 Boulder 15ft
5 * Donkey Punch V4 Boulder 15ft
6 * Donkey Punch Right V4 Boulder 15ft
7 32 oz. V4 Boulder 15ft
8 * Your Project V5 Boulder 15ft
9 right downclimb V1 Boulder 15ft
10 arete V5 Boulder 15ft
11 * backside left V1 Boulder 15ft
12 backside right V1 Boulder 15ft
13 northwest face left V1 Boulder 15ft
14 chimney V1 Boulder 15ft
15 northwest face V1 Boulder 15ft
16 northwest face right V1 Boulder 15ft

1.1.4. Picante Sauce 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Picante Sauce is located just up the hill. A number of variations are possible using the many positive holds on this small overhang.

1.1.5. Beth Wald Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This popular boulder sits just east of the warm-up boulder. Its overhanging north face is typically shady.

Approach:

See Description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Poker Chips

Sit start with big flakes, follow the lip up and right to the apex of the overhang. Top out.

V1 Boulder 12ft
2 Potato Chips

An iconic Red Rocks boulder problem. Crouch with small but incut crimps and climb directly to the lip, and mantle above.

V2 Boulder 15ft

1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

This boulder lies further uphill and east of The Angel Dyno. Bubble Butt faces east and is in the shade in the late morning until sunset.

Approach:

See Description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Scare Tactics

FA: Andrew Spencer, 2010

V10 Boulder 20ft
2 Bubble Butt

Sit start with both hands on a right-angling rail. Move up to a rad sloper to the arete. Gain the good edges at the lip and mantle to the final slab- be careful here!

V7 Boulder
3 Project - Left to Right Traverse Boulder 20ft
4 Project - Undone

Begin with small crimp on the slight prow.

Boulder 20ft
5 Project - The Dennis Boulder 20ft
6 The Peter V1 Boulder 20ft
7 The Jack V1 Boulder 20ft

1.2. Kraft Crags 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

A low cliff in the middle of the south side of Kraft Mountain, though still a couple hundred feet up from the boulder field.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 California Reverse 5.11b Trad 150ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 High Roller 5.11d Trad 160ft
3 Shark Vegas 5.11c Trad 140ft
4 Viva Las Vegas 5.11b Trad 140ft
5 Vegas Girls 5.11b Trad 140ft
6 Porch Pirate 5.11b Trad 160ft
7 Weasel Yeast 5.10c Trad 100ft
8 Weasel Cheese 5.11a Top rope 100ft
9 Bendylegs 5.10c Trad 150ft
10 * Classic Crack of Calico 5.9 Trad 310ft 2
11 The Last Calico 5.10b Trad 110ft

1.3. The Mall 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

A set of small south-facing cliffs on the south-east corner of Karft Mountain.

1.4. Gateway Canyon 89 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -115.422596, 36.171105

Description:

This is the canyon along the north side of Kraft Mountain.

Approach:

Approach from either end, walking around the east side of Kraft Mountain, or over the saddle along the west side of Kraft Mountain.

1.4.1. The Playground 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
1.4.1.1. Lower Tier 2 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Show Burro 5.10+ PG Unknown
2 Lick It 5.11 Unknown
1.4.1.2. Middle Tier 7 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Figurine 5.10- Unknown
2 Repo Man 5.11a PG13 Unknown
3 Messie Nessie 5.11d Unknown
4 Dirty Little Girl 5.10d Unknown
5 Gold-Plated Garlic Press 5.11+ Unknown
6 Electric Orange Peeler 5.10 Unknown
7 Practice Crack 5.9 Unknown
1.4.1.3. Upper Tier 6 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Powder Puff 5.10 Unknown
2 Headmaster Ritual 5.11c Unknown
3 Climb and Punishment 5.12b Unknown
4 Project project Unknown
5 Country Bumpkin 5.11a Unknown
6 * City Slickers 5.11- Unknown

1.4.2. Caligula Crag 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ms. October, 1995 5.9 Unknown
2 Penthouse Pet 5.11- Unknown
3 Disguise the Limit 5.11d Unknown
4 Caligula 5.12- Unknown
5 Guccione 5.11 Unknown
6 Hefner 5.7 Unknown
7 Bonus Pullout Section 5.6 Unknown

1.4.3. Conundrum Crag 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arrowhead Arete 5.11d Sport 30ft
2 Lost Arrow 5.10b Sport 60ft
3 Drilling Miss Daisy 5.11a Sport 40ft
4 Satan in a Can 5.12d PG Trad 45ft
5 Family Affair / Family Affairs 5.8 Sport 80ft, 7
6 Family Circus 5.9 Sport 80ft, 7
7 Wayward Son 5.9 Sport 70ft, 6
8 Black Sheep 5.9 Trad 60ft
9 Project 5.10 Unknown

1.4.4. Swirly Cliff 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old School 5.11- Unknown
2 Saltwater Taffy 5.11 Unknown
3 Turkish Taffy 5.11 Unknown
4 Chocolate Swirl 5.11 Unknown

1.4.5. Cannabis Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Smokin' 5.12b Unknown
2 One Man's Kokopelli Is Another Man's Side Show Bob 5.12d Unknown
3 Freak Brothers 5.13a Unknown
4 KGB 5.12a Unknown
5 Cannabis 5.12a Unknown
6 Synapse Collapse 5.11d Unknown
7 The Fiend 5.12c Unknown
8 Cavity Search 5.12d Unknown
9 The Felon 5.11c Unknown
10 Horizontal Departure 5.10- Unknown
11 ** Good Friday 5.11b Unknown

1.4.6. Yin and Yang 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Yin and Yang 5.11 Unknown
2 Zoroaster 5.8 X Unknown
3 * Atman 5.10 Unknown

1.4.7. Meyers Cracks 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Meyers Crack 5.10 Unknown
2 Conz Crack 5.11- Unknown
3 Chunder Bolt 5.12a Unknown
4 Edward Silverhands 5.10a Unknown
5 Golden Nugget 5.11d Unknown
6 Play with Fire 5.11c PG13 Unknown
7 Judgement Day 5.12a PG Unknown

1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Claimjumper's Special 5.10d Unknown
2 Black Happy 5.11d Unknown
3 Blackend 5.11d Unknown
4 Scorpions 5.11b Unknown
5 ** Turtle Wax 5.11b Unknown
6 *** Sunny and Steep 5.12a Unknown
7 Tour de Pump 5.12a Unknown
8 * The Sport Chimney 5.8 Unknown
9 * Gimme Back My Bullets 5.12a Unknown
10 ** Steep Thrills 5.12a Unknown
11 Turbo Dog 5.12b Unknown
12 Peak Performance 5.11d Unknown
13 Solar Flare 5.11d Unknown
14 ** Mr. Choad's Wild Ride 5.11b Unknown
15 Cirque du Soleil 5.11b Unknown
16 * Working for Peanuts 5.9 PG Unknown
17 Edward Silverhands

On the giant "Golden Nugget" boulder 50 yards west (?) of Sunny & Steep, on the south facing side of the boulder.

5.10a Sport 30ft, 4

1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hole in the Pants 5.7 PG Unknown
2 * High Class Hoe 5.10- Unknown
3 Vernal Thaw 5.11 Unknown
4 * Winter Heat 5.11+ Unknown
5 Autumnal Frost 5.11+ Unknown
6 * Couldn't Be Schmooter 5.9 Unknown
7 Nuttin' Could Be Finer 5.7 R Unknown
8 Mo Hotta, Mo Betta 5.8 R Unknown
9 A-OK 5.0 Unknown
10 Cool Water Sandwich 5.10d Unknown
11 Cool Whip 5.10c Unknown
12 Cool Whip Variation 5.11 Unknown

1.4.10. The Pork Chop 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

This triangle of rock sits adjacent to the trail which leads into Gateway Canyon from Monkey Bars. While the rock is good throughout, the Pork Chop is not to be missed. Approach time from the Kraft parking is about 25 mins.

Approach:

See description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Pork Chop

Stand start (V2/V3), climb the right arete until it is possible to use the left lip. Top out at the apex. Precarious and commiting. There are a couple of sit start options: with both hands on the arete adds little difficulty, starting with a sidepull undercling feature just left and moving to the arete is V4. A variation (V2) exits right into the small dihedral above the start.

V4 Boulder 20ft

1.4.11. Mr. Moran and Adjacent 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Mr. Moran sits in the middle of the wash and faces east, about 100ft upstream of the tall pocketed rock face right of the creek bed.

Approach:

See description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Mr. Moran

A showcase problem of the area. Sit start with both hands on the flake below the lip. Traverse right to a difficult mantle. The name is a reference to Ryan Moran who first took interest in the problem.

V7 Boulder
2 El Adviento

On the far right side of the boulder problem of Mr. Moran is a boulder that sort of suspends the Mr. Moran boulder. Start sitting on this boulder with a good undercling on the left hand and a slopey sidepull on the right. Pull a long move left to the slopey corner (never touch Mr. Moran boulder), do a tension left heel and static the last hard move to the good slopers above. The difficulty lies in not touching Mr. Moran. The name comes from the advent of Maria's hardest send (Nov 2014) and the advent of our homecoming to Mexico

FA: Justin Case, 2014

V4 Boulder

1.4.12. Mr. Morangatang and Adjacent 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

The boulder lying next to Mr. Moran is known as Mr. Morangatang.

Approach:

See description.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Campus Problem

This problem is located on a small boulder below and left of Triple Sow Cow. Start on the left and traverse right on slopers until it's possible to top out. Lowball.

V5 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.0 A-OK Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.6 Bonus Pullout Section Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
5.7 Hefner Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
Hole in the Pants Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
Nuttin' Could Be Finer Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.8 Family Affair Sport 80ft, 7 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
Zoroaster Unknown 1.4.6. Yin and Yang
* The Sport Chimney Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Mo Hotta, Mo Betta Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
V0 Right Arete Boulder 1.1.1. The Black Bitch
Prefunk Boulder 14ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
5.9 * Classic Crack of Calico Trad 310ft 2 1.2. Kraft Crags
Practice Crack Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Ms. October, 1995 Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
Black Sheep Trad 60ft 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
Family Circus Sport 80ft, 7 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
Wayward Son Sport 70ft, 6 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
* Working for Peanuts Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
* Couldn't Be Schmooter Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.10- The Figurine Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Horizontal Departure Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
* High Class Hoe Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.10a Edward Silverhands Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
Edward Silverhands Sport 30ft, 4 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
5.10b The Last Calico Trad 110ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Lost Arrow Sport 60ft 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
V1 * backside left Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
backside right Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
chimney Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
northwest face Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
northwest face left Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
northwest face right Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
right downclimb Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
Poker Chips Boulder 12ft 1.1.5. Beth Wald Boulder
The Jack Boulder 20ft 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
The Peter Boulder 20ft 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
5.10c Bendylegs Trad 150ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Weasel Yeast Trad 100ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Cool Whip Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.10 Electric Orange Peeler Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Powder Puff Unknown 1.4.1.3. Upper Tier
Project Unknown 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
* Atman Unknown 1.4.6. Yin and Yang
Meyers Crack Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
5.10d Dirty Little Girl Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Claimjumper's Special Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Cool Water Sandwich Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.10+ Show Burro Unknown 1.4.1.1. Lower Tier
5.11- * City Slickers Unknown 1.4.1.3. Upper Tier
Penthouse Pet Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
Old School Unknown 1.4.4. Swirly Cliff
Conz Crack Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
V2 Traverse Boulder 1.1.2. Pretzel Boulder
** Fluffer Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
Potato Chips Boulder 15ft 1.1.5. Beth Wald Boulder
5.11a Weasel Cheese Top rope 100ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Repo Man Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Country Bumpkin Unknown 1.4.1.3. Upper Tier
Drilling Miss Daisy Sport 40ft 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
5.11b California Reverse Trad 150ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Porch Pirate Trad 160ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Vegas Girls Trad 140ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Viva Las Vegas Trad 140ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
** Good Friday Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
Cirque du Soleil Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
** Mr. Choad's Wild Ride Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Scorpions Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
** Turtle Wax Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
5.11c Shark Vegas Trad 140ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Headmaster Ritual Unknown 1.4.1.3. Upper Tier
The Felon Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
Play with Fire Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
5.11 Lick It Unknown 1.4.1.1. Lower Tier
Guccione Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
Chocolate Swirl Unknown 1.4.4. Swirly Cliff
Saltwater Taffy Unknown 1.4.4. Swirly Cliff
Turkish Taffy Unknown 1.4.4. Swirly Cliff
** Yin and Yang Unknown 1.4.6. Yin and Yang
Cool Whip Variation Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
Vernal Thaw Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.11d High Roller Trad 160ft 1.2. Kraft Crags
Messie Nessie Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Disguise the Limit Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
Arrowhead Arete Sport 30ft 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
Synapse Collapse Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
Golden Nugget Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
Black Happy Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Blackend Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Peak Performance Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Solar Flare Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
5.11+ Gold-Plated Garlic Press Unknown 1.4.1.2. Middle Tier
Autumnal Frost Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
* Winter Heat Unknown 1.4.9. Winter Heat Wall
5.12- Caligula Unknown 1.4.2. Caligula Crag
V4 32 oz. Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
* Donkey Punch Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
* Donkey Punch Right Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
*** The Pork Chop Boulder 20ft 1.4.10. The Pork Chop
El Adviento Boulder 1.4.11. Mr. Moran and Adjacent
5.12a Cannabis Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
KGB Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
Chunder Bolt Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
Judgement Day Unknown 1.4.7. Meyers Cracks
* Gimme Back My Bullets Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
** Steep Thrills Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
*** Sunny and Steep Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
Tour de Pump Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
5.12b Climb and Punishment Unknown 1.4.1.3. Upper Tier
Smokin' Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
Turbo Dog Unknown 1.4.8. Sunny and Steep Crag
V5 * Your Project Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
arete Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
Campus Problem Boulder 1.4.12. Mr. Morangatang and Adjacent
5.12c The Fiend Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
V6 Rub One Off Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
5.12d Satan in a Can Trad 45ft 1.4.3. Conundrum Crag
Cavity Search Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
One Man's Kokopelli Is Another Man's Side Show Bob Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
V7 Bubble Butt Boulder 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
** Mr. Moran Boulder 1.4.11. Mr. Moran and Adjacent
5.13a Freak Brothers Unknown 1.4.5. Cannabis Crag
V8 centre Boulder 15ft 1.1.3. Warm Up Boulder
V10 * Scare Tactics Boulder 20ft 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
? Project - Left to Right Traverse Boulder 20ft 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
Project - The Dennis Boulder 20ft 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
Project - Undone Boulder 20ft 1.1.6. Easy Rider Boulder
project Project Unknown 1.4.1.3. Upper Tier