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Description

With a generally easy approach, and several easy sport routes, this is a popular cliff.

Note: routes are described right-to-left.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 PG Thong Trad 30ft
2
5.10 Butt Floss Top rope 130ft
3
5.6 Cover My Buttress Trad 40ft

FA: Todd Swain

4
5.5 X Scanty Panty Trad 98ft

FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain

5
5.7 Silk Panties Sport 40ft, 5

The right-most bolted route, about half-way up the ramp.

FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain

6
5.7 *** The Last Panty Sport 45ft, 6
7
5.7 Boxer Rebellion Sport 50ft, 6

Starts where the ledge turns into a ramp up to the right.

FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson

8

2nd bolted line from the left, with 8 bolts up to an anchor. Lots of fun.

FA: Mark Limage

9
5.8 Brief Encounter Sport 210ft, 6

Left-most bolted line on the front of the cliff.

FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson

10
5.10- R * Panty Line Trad 70ft

FA: Nick Nordblom & Paul Van Betten

11
5.10- * Panty Raid Trad 70ft

Climb diagonally up rightwards to the obvious crack splitting the large varnished area on the front of the cliff.

12
5.10 X Edible Panties Trad 70ft
13
5.12a Viagra Falls Sport 60ft, 6

This is the rightmost bolted route on the steep section to the left.

14
5.12b ** Wedgie Sport 66ft, 8
15
5.11a * Totally Clips Sport 49ft, 6

Left-most route on the steep section, starts about 40ft up the gully.

16
5.6 Panty Prow Sport 60ft, 6

Climb the rounded arete to the right of the face, then traverse to the anchor. A very committing feeling lead for a 5.6.

FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain

17
5.10 Victoria's Secret Top rope 45ft

Climb up the slab directly beneath the shared anchor.

FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain

18
5.10d PG * Panty-Mime Sport 40ft, 6

Slab climbing up the bolts on the left side of the slab, to the shared anchors.

19
5.10d R * Panty Shield Trad 50ft
20
5.13b The Great Red Roof Trad 50ft

At the top of the gully is a small cliff with a huge roof split by an impressive thin crack.

Also can be aided at A1.

FA: Van Bettern, Nordblom & Mamusia, 1987

FFA: Tom Moulin, 2007

21
5.8 unknown Unknown
22
5.8 X * Panty Loon Unknown 66ft

FA: 2001