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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

Magic Bus is the ovalish varnished wall (with a triangular cut-out on the lower-right side) sitting perched on top of the first layer of slabs just across the gully from the 2nd pull out. It is a warm, south-facing wall with generally easy routes on it; in many ways the approach is the crux of this wall, but picking it out from the parking lot can help for having an idea of where you're heading while negotiating the gullies and slabs on the way.

Descent Notes

Rap/lower off anchors.

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.9 Electric Koolaid Sport 45ft, 5

The left-most bolted route.

The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing.

2
5.9 Blonde Dwarf Mixed 45ft, 2

Starting just right of "Electric Coolaid", climb the right sloping crack until it turns vertical and peters out in the slight scoop in the face, then follow two bolts up and leftwards to the shared anchor.

3
5.8 Neon Sunset Sport 45ft, 9

Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall.

4
5.8 PG13 Zipperhead Mixed 45ft, 1

Climb the thin crack about 10ft right of Neon Sunset until it runs out, then up a seam, then run out to a bolt, then to the anchor for whichever adjacent route you choose.

5
5.8 Technicolor Sunrise Sport 45ft, 5

Start on the left side of the triangular cut-out, and follow the bolts up and generally right-wards to an anchor.

6
5.8 PG13 Ken Queasy Mixed 50ft, 3

Start a couple feet right of the triangular cut-out at a wide crack in the lower rock. Climb up this and a thin seam through the nearly solid varnish to a bolt. Then, continue up the wall past two more bolts to anchors.