A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Bridge Mountain 85 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown and Trad
Description:

Bridge Mountain is the peak that forms the north side of the canyon.

1.1. Out of Control Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 American Ninja 5.10Trad
2 * Out of Control 5.10Trad
3 Romote Control 5.9Unknown
4 Red Throbber Spire 5.9 RUnknown
5 A Rope, a Rubber Chicken, and a Vibrator 5.10-Unknown
6 A Rope, a Rubber Chicken, and a Vibrator Variation 5.7Unknown

1.2. Spectrum Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The tall (about 250m) buttress south-facing buttress. It has a low right-curving arch in the center, then a 2nd higher one about half-way up near the right side.

The classic, Birdland, goes up this wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rawlpindi

A decent alternate if Birdland is crowded.

Start about 30m left of Birdland, in a steep gully. Go up the gully for about 320ft (2 pitches), to a comfortable ledge about 15 feet right of the gully. From there head up and slightly right on the face past a couple bolts to an anchor. Then step right and go up blocky cracks to a rap anchor.

Descent: rappel the top two pitches with 2 ropes, on the second rappel divert to the 3rd anchor of Birdland (almost directly below), then finish the rappel down Birdland.

5.7Trad 580ft
2 * The Big Horn

Climb the first two pitches of Birdland, then head up and left to the big chimney (50ft), then up a big crack on the left face of the chimney to an anchor (120ft). Rap from here (usual), or continue up another couple pitches to the top of the formation.

Or climb the first two pitches of Rawlpindi, then instead of branching right onto the face, continue up the chimney to the left.

5.8Trad 700ft
3 Psycho Date

After climbing the first pitch of Birdland, walk about 15 feet left on the ledge. This climb goes directly up the varnished face. It finishes at the same ledge as the 2nd pitch of Birdland, so can be used as an alternate 2nd pitch for someone looking for a bit more spice.

5.10dMixed 160ft, 3
4 Valore

Starts in the grotto behind the big boulder just to the right of Birdland.

5.8Mixed 300ft, 2
5 *** Birdland

A superb sustained route at the grade (5.7+). Very popular, due to bolted anchors, ability to be rappelled on single 70m rope, and very good climbing with generally solid protection.

Start below the left-most of 2 obvious long cracks the split the lower part of the varnished buttress left of the corner that Spectrum climbs to the roof 60ft up. This is a few yards above a huge boulder that leans against the cliff creating a tunnel.

  1. Climb the left crack to an anchor on a treed ledge. 110ft. 5.5 (Handren says 5.6, but it doesn't climb that hard.)

  2. Climb straight up from the anchor, then follow a crack in the wall right of the main chimney to a ledge. Up the steep corner, then right under a block to an anchor at the right end of a big ledge. 110ft 5.7.

  3. Go up and right about 10ft of easy ground to a left-leaning corner. At the top, traverse left past a bolt (crux) then up a steep crack to a ledge. Then up and right to the anchor. 85ft, 5.7+.

  4. Go up about 20ft to a horizontal crack, then move up and right accross discontinuous cracks to an anchor on the face. This pitch has the most complicated route-finding -- generally, when in doubt, go up or right. On the face there should be a down-arching horizontal curve, and the anchor being aimed for is near the bottom of the curve. Belay at anchors with huecos for your feet. 95ft 5.6.

  5. Move up and right to a thin crack, then over a bulge and up a thin (finger crack) on a varnished face with small holds and small gear. Finish on a small triangular, down-sloping ledge (crux). 95ft, 5.7+.

  6. Variant, adds an extra 75ft pitch, not usually climbed due to fragile rock and run-out climbing. Climb up passing a small roof on the right, then continue up and right to an anchor in a small right-facing corner. 75ft, 5.7.

FA: Mark Limage, Chris Burton

5.7Trad 500ft
6 Spectrum 5.11Trad 640ft
7 Brass Balls

Climbs the large corner/gully that defines the right side of the Spectrum Buttress. The start of the gully has its own pyramid buttress, start up the left side of this.

Rappel with a 60m rope.

5.10+Trad 400ft

1.3. Brass Wall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This is recognizable by a large triangular area of dark varnish on the south-east flank of Bridge Mountain. It is generally sunny and warm, making it a popular winter weather location.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The left-most set of routes on Brass Wall are in a section of left-facing corners.

1 Free Fall 5.11cTrad 160ft
2 Ripcord 5.12- RTrad 430ft
3 Freebull 5.11bTrad 90ft
4 Cut Away 5.10dTrad 100ft
5 * Sea of Holes 5.10 RTrad 440ft
6 The Black Hole 5.8Trad 170ft
7 Drop Zone 5.10+Trad 100ft
8 Frap 5.10b RTrad 60ft
9 Sky Dive 5.11bTrad 140ft

To the right of Sky Dive, the wall curves around to be a bit more east-facing, and changes from the left-facing character of the left side to a more flat wall aspect.

10 Arachnoworld 5.4Trad 40ft
11 Zen and the Art of Web Spinning 5.4Trad 40ft
12 Snivler 5.5 RTrad 60ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Heavy Spider Karma 5.6Trad 60ft
14 Raptor 5.10 RTrad 410ft
15 ** Topless Twins

Excellent and interesting lead.

5.9Trad 70ft
16 Mushroom People 5.10+Trad 110ft
17 Bush Pilots 5.9Trad 70ft
18 Fungus Folks 5.11Trad 60ft
19 No Laughing Matter 5.10-Trad 110ft
20 Serious Business 5.10+Trad 100ft
21 ** Varnishing Point 5.8Trad 160ft
22 Go Greyhound 5.11 XTrad 120ft
23 One Stop in Tonopah 5.10Trad 150ft
24 Simpatico 5.10-Trad 130ft
25 The Bus Stops Here 5.8 RTrad 130ft

1.4. Beer and Ice Gully 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Orange Clonus 5.10+Unknown
2 Too Pumped to Pose 5.12Unknown
3 Posby 5.12Unknown
4 Twenty-nine Posers 5.11+Unknown
5 Moisture Brau 5.11-Unknown
6 * This Bud's For You 5.11-Unknown
7 Corona Crack 5.11+Unknown
8 Stout Roof 5.10+Unknown
9 Terminal Velocity 5.13-Unknown
10 Chilly Ones 5.10+ XUnknown

1.5. Straight Shooter Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Lazy Fireman 5.11aUnknown
2 Sidewinder 5.11aUnknown
3 ** Straight Shooter 5.9Unknown
4 Slabba Dabba Do 5.11b PG13Unknown
5 Forget Me Knot 5.11Unknown

1.6. Stick Gully 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

The first (left-most) major gully slanting up and rightwards on the east-face of Bridge Mountain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stickball 5.9Unknown
2 Stickball Variation 5.10Unknown
3 Stick Right 5.9Unknown
4 Stick Left 5.10Unknown
5 Nature Is Fun 5.9Unknown
6 The Elephant Penis 5.10 RUnknown

1.7. Flight Path Area 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Radio Free Kansas 5.7Unknown
2 Common Bond of Circumstance 5.9Unknown
3 Belief in Proportion to the Evidence 5.10-Unknown
4 Ignore the Man behind the Screen 5.6Unknown
5 Sex in the Scrub Oak 5.7Unknown
6 They Call the Wind #!&% 5.8Unknown
7 A Simple Expediency 5.9Unknown
8 Car Talk 5.9Unknown
9 Doin' the Good Drive 5.9Unknown
10 Commuted Sentence 5.9Unknown

1.8. Gemstone Gully Area 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

The 2nd major gully slanting up and right on the east-face of Bridge Peak.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fearing and Loathing 5.10Unknown
2 * Gemstone 5.10 PG13Unknown
3 Bauble 5.10+Unknown
4 Costume Jewelry 5.3Unknown
5 Tri-Burro Bridge 5.10Unknown

1.9. The Abutment 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Robin Trowel 5.7Unknown
2 Bridge of Sighs 5.9Unknown
3 Men Are from Mars, Women Are from Venice 5.10+Unknown
4 Crazy Girls 5.10 PG13Unknown
5 Skewback 5.10Unknown
6 Pier-Less 5.10Unknown
7 Cantilever Corner 5.8Unknown
8 Spanning the Gap 5.9Unknown
9 Human Chockstones 5.6Unknown
10 Flight Path 5.8Unknown
11 Clyde Crashcup 5.10Unknown

1.10. Eagles Nest 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.3 Costume Jewelry Unknown 1.8. Gemstone Gully Area
5.4 Arachnoworld Trad 40ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning Trad 40ft 1.3. Brass Wall
5.5 Snivler Trad 60ft 1.3. Brass Wall
5.6 Heavy Spider Karma Trad 60ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Ignore the Man behind the Screen Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Human Chockstones Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
5.7 A Rope, a Rubber Chicken, and a Vibrator Variation Unknown 1.1. Out of Control Area
*** Birdland Trad 500ft 1.2. Spectrum Area
Rawlpindi Trad 580ft 1.2. Spectrum Area
Radio Free Kansas Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Sex in the Scrub Oak Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Robin Trowel Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
5.8 * The Big Horn Trad 700ft 1.2. Spectrum Area
Valore Mixed 300ft, 2 1.2. Spectrum Area
The Black Hole Trad 170ft 1.3. Brass Wall
The Bus Stops Here Trad 130ft 1.3. Brass Wall
** Varnishing Point Trad 160ft 1.3. Brass Wall
They Call the Wind #!&% Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Cantilever Corner Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
Flight Path Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
5.9 Red Throbber Spire Unknown 1.1. Out of Control Area
Romote Control Unknown 1.1. Out of Control Area
Bush Pilots Trad 70ft 1.3. Brass Wall
** Topless Twins Trad 70ft 1.3. Brass Wall
** Straight Shooter Unknown 1.5. Straight Shooter Wall
Nature Is Fun Unknown 1.6. Stick Gully
Stick Right Unknown 1.6. Stick Gully
Stickball Unknown 1.6. Stick Gully
A Simple Expediency Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Car Talk Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Common Bond of Circumstance Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Commuted Sentence Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Doin' the Good Drive Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
Bridge of Sighs Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
Spanning the Gap Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
5.10- A Rope, a Rubber Chicken, and a Vibrator Unknown 1.1. Out of Control Area
No Laughing Matter Trad 110ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Simpatico Trad 130ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Belief in Proportion to the Evidence Unknown 1.7. Flight Path Area
5.10b Frap Trad 60ft 1.3. Brass Wall
5.10 American Ninja Trad 1.1. Out of Control Area
* Out of Control Trad 1.1. Out of Control Area
One Stop in Tonopah Trad 150ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Raptor Trad 410ft 1.3. Brass Wall
* Sea of Holes Trad 440ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Stick Left Unknown 1.6. Stick Gully
Stickball Variation Unknown 1.6. Stick Gully
The Elephant Penis Unknown 1.6. Stick Gully
Fearing and Loathing Unknown 1.8. Gemstone Gully Area
* Gemstone Unknown 1.8. Gemstone Gully Area
Tri-Burro Bridge Unknown 1.8. Gemstone Gully Area
Clyde Crashcup Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
Crazy Girls Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
Pier-Less Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
Skewback Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
5.10d Psycho Date Mixed 160ft, 3 1.2. Spectrum Area
Cut Away Trad 100ft 1.3. Brass Wall
5.10+ Brass Balls Trad 400ft 1.2. Spectrum Area
Drop Zone Trad 100ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Mushroom People Trad 110ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Serious Business Trad 100ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Chilly Ones Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
Orange Clonus Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
Stout Roof Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
Bauble Unknown 1.8. Gemstone Gully Area
Men Are from Mars, Women Are from Venice Unknown 1.9. The Abutment
5.11- Moisture Brau Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
* This Bud's For You Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
5.11a Sidewinder Unknown 1.5. Straight Shooter Wall
The Lazy Fireman Unknown 1.5. Straight Shooter Wall
5.11b Freebull Trad 90ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Sky Dive Trad 140ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Slabba Dabba Do Unknown 1.5. Straight Shooter Wall
5.11c Free Fall Trad 160ft 1.3. Brass Wall
5.11 Spectrum Trad 640ft 1.2. Spectrum Area
Fungus Folks Trad 60ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Go Greyhound Trad 120ft 1.3. Brass Wall
Forget Me Knot Unknown 1.5. Straight Shooter Wall
5.11+ Corona Crack Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
Twenty-nine Posers Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
5.12- Ripcord Trad 430ft 1.3. Brass Wall
5.12 Posby Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
Too Pumped to Pose Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully
5.13- Terminal Velocity Unknown 1.4. Beer and Ice Gully