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Grade Route

First pitch is an easy, protectable chimney for 150 ft. Second pitch starts on a face but quickly moves left into a dank overhanging corner. Protection is back farther in the corner. Do not be tempted to follow the right leaning flake because it will peter out after a couple of placements and then you will have a long scary traverse left back into the corner. Protection gets sparse until you pull back onto a face up to bolted anchors. 140 feet. Third pitch is an off width splitter crack, completely exposed for ninty feet. A number five cannot be placed until the very top so don't count on big gear to help you where you need it most. The first opportunity to protect is about 35-40 feet up in a small flake on the right side of the offwidth. A .75 cam will work there. A fall before reaching the protectable flake would be deadly and would probably blow out the anchor too. Fortunately the crack stays very wide so you can jam your shoulder and knee in to keep yourself feeling somewhat safe. Rock quality is excellent. Definitely not for a beginning leader. Single bolt at the top with a nice crack for pro.


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