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Description

An easily approached cliff with lots of single-pitch trad routes of moderate grade.

Access issues inherited from Calico Basin

There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.

Descent Notes

Generally rappel off anchors. Often several climbs will share a rap anchor.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10+ Side Effects Sport 7

Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.

2
5.7 * Unknown 5.7 Unknown 33ft
3
5.9 Bad Soup Mixed 25ft, 3

Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.

4
5.10 Stew on This Mixed 2
5
5.10 Is It Soup Yet? Mixed 1
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5.6 Soupy Sales Trad 33ft
9
5.7 From Soup to Nuts Trad 33ft
11
5.8 ** Valentine's Day Trad 49ft
12
5.10+ Ace of Hearts Trad
13
5.10d Immoral Trad 80ft
14
5.9 Pending Disaster Unknown
15
5.9 A2 Pending Project Aid
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5.3 Penny Lane Trad
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5.4 Abbey Road Trad 90ft

A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.

18
5.8 * Fleet Street Mixed 2

Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.

Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.

19
5.8 Muckraker Trad
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5.10 * Scalawag Trad
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5.8 Boodler Trad
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5.6 Carpetbagger Trad
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5.10 Mugwump Top rope

TR from the common anchor -- start on the boulder and pull up the steep/overhanging pink face to easier ground.

24
5.9 The Haj Trad
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5.7 Sir Climbalot Trad
27