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This is a high wall rising almost directly out of the canyon floor, on the north side of Mescalito.


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Grade Route
5.11- IV Negro Blanco Trad 1100ft, 9

First pitch of 5.11a, then lots of easier climbing to the top of Mescalito.

8 pitches plus about 250 ft of 4th class.

5.12 *** Lethal Weapon Trad 90ft
5.12- PG13 ** Parental Guidance Trad 170ft, 2
5.11 PG Short Circuit Trad 60ft
5.10+ III PG *** Risky Business Trad 360ft, 4
5.11- R ** Excellent Adventure Trad 350ft, 3
5.10c PG13 Sandstone Sandwich Trad 150ft

Alternate first pitch to Excellent Adventure.

5.11c IV Heart of Darkness Trad 1100ft, 11

5th pitch at 5.11c, rest at 5.9 or less.

5.8 II *** Dark Shadows Trad 340ft, 4
  1. Climb the slab between bolts. Stay calm, it really is easy.... (5.5)

  2. Stellar pitch up a dihedral crack system, you should try get another red cam stuck, this pitch needs more fixed gear! Can be linked with pitch 1. (5.7)

  3. A long, long and rewarding pitch, the desert paten looks intimidating, but those cutouts are just sooooo good. For a confident leader you will be running this one out. (5.7)

  4. The money pitch, but so short. Trend right off the belay over lots of air. Negotiate the offwidth, look around for gear, then fire out to the right across a series of stellar, unprotected but bomber face moves. Unreal. (5.8)

Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.

FA: Nick Nordblom & Jon Martinet, 1979

5.8 IV ** Dark Shadows - all the way Trad 1000ft, 10

Continue on another 6 pitches to the top of Mescalito after the usual rappel point and the end of pitch 4. Not a trivial undertaking.

5.8 PG13 ** Chasing Shadows Trad 310ft, 4

Dark Shadows variant.

5.10 PG ** Edge Dressing Trad 300ft, 4

Chasing Shadows variant.

5.10 PG ** Slot Machine Trad 150ft


Check out what is happening in Dark Shadows Wall.