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Table of contents

1. Dark Shadows Wall 14 routes in Cliff

All Trad

This is a high wall rising almost directly out of the canyon floor, on the north side of Mescalito.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Negro Blanco

First pitch of 5.11a, then lots of easier climbing to the top of Mescalito.

8 pitches plus about 250 ft of 4th class.

5.11- IV Trad 1100ft 9
2 Lethal Weapon 5.12 Trad 90ft
3 Parental Guidance 5.12- PG13 Trad 170ft 2
4 Short Circuit 5.11 PG Trad 60ft
5 *** Risky Business 5.10+ III PG Trad 360ft 4
6 Risky Business Variation 5.11+ Trad
7 * Excellent Adventure 5.11- R Trad 350ft 3
8 Sandstone Sandwich

Alternate first pitch to Excellent Adventure.

5.10c PG13 Trad 150ft
9 Heart of Darkness

5th pitch at 5.11c, rest at 5.9 or less.

5.11c IV Trad 1100ft 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Dark Shadows
  1. Climb the slab between bolts. Stay calm, it really is easy.... (5.5)

  2. Stellar pitch up a dihedral crack system, you should try get another red cam stuck, this pitch needs more fixed gear! Can be linked with pitch 1. (5.7)

  3. A long, long and rewarding pitch, the desert paten looks intimidating, but those cutouts are just sooooo good. For a confident leader you will be running this one out. (5.7)

  4. The money pitch, but so short. Trend right off the belay over lots of air. Negotiate the offwidth, look around for gear, then fire out to the right across a series of stellar, unprotected but bomber face moves. Unreal. (5.8)

Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.

FA: Nick Nordblom,Jon Martinet, 1979

5.8 II Trad 340ft 4
11 ** Dark Shadows - all the way

Continue on another 6 pitches to the top of Mescalito after the usual rappel point and the end of pitch 4. Not a trivial undertaking.

5.8 IV Trad 1000ft 10
12 Chasing Shadows

Dark Shadows variant.

5.8 PG13 Trad 310ft 4
13 Edge Dressing

Chasing Shadows variant.

5.10 PG Trad 300ft 4
14 Slot Machine 5.10 PG Trad 150ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.8 Chasing Shadows Trad 310ft 4
5.8 II *** Dark Shadows Trad 340ft 4
5.8 IV ** Dark Shadows - all the way Trad 1000ft 10
5.10c Sandstone Sandwich Trad 150ft
5.10 Edge Dressing Trad 300ft 4
Slot Machine Trad 150ft
5.10+ III *** Risky Business Trad 360ft 4
5.11- * Excellent Adventure Trad 350ft 3
5.11- IV Negro Blanco Trad 1100ft 9
5.11c IV Heart of Darkness Trad 1100ft 11
5.11 Short Circuit Trad 60ft
5.11+ Risky Business Variation Trad
5.12- Parental Guidance Trad 170ft 2
5.12 Lethal Weapon Trad 90ft