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Routes as trad in Dark Shadows Wall

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.11- IV Negro Blanco

First pitch of 5.11a, then lots of easier climbing to the top of Mescalito.

8 pitches plus about 250 ft of 4th class.

Trad 340m, 9
5.12 Lethal Weapon Trad 27m
5.12- Parental Guidance Trad 52m, 2
5.11 Short Circuit Trad 18m
5.10c III PG Risky Business Trad 110m, 4
5.11+ Risky Business Variation Trad
5.11- Excellent Adventure Trad 110m, 3
5.10c Sandstone Sandwich

Alternate first pitch to Excellent Adventure.

Trad 46m
5.11c IV Heart of Darkness

5th pitch at 5.11c, rest at 5.9 or less.

Trad 340m, 11
5.8 II Dark Shadows
  1. Climb the slab between bolts. Stay calm, it really is easy.... (5.5)

  2. Stellar pitch up a dihedral crack system, you should try get another red cam stuck, this pitch needs more fixed gear! Can be linked with pitch 1. (5.7)

  3. A long, long and rewarding pitch, the desert paten looks intimidating, but those cutouts are just sooooo good. For a confident leader you will be running this one out. (5.7)

  4. The money pitch, but so short. Trend right off the belay over lots of air. Negotiate the offwidth, look around for gear, then fire out to the right across a series of stellar, unprotected but bomber face moves. Unreal. (5.8)

Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.

FA: Nick Nordblom & Jon Martinet, 1979

Trad 100m, 4
5.8 Dark Shadows (Full)
1 5.5 70'
2 5.6 75'
3 5.8 120'
4 5.8 75'
5 5.7 120'
6 5.7 120'
7 5.7 120'
8 5.7 60'
9 5.7 110'
10 5.8 170'

Continue on another 6 pitches to the top of Mescalito after the usual rappel point and the end of pitch 4. Not a trivial undertaking.

FA: John Martinet & Nick Nordblom, 1979

Trad 320m, 10
5.8 Chasing Shadows

Dark Shadows variant.

Trad 96m, 4
5.10 Edge Dressing

Chasing Shadows variant.

Trad 93m, 4
5.10 Slot Machine Trad 46m

Showing all 14 routes.

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