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Table of contents
Mescalito is the smaller (1000') steeper red-capped peak in the center of the canyon, that splits the canyon into its north and south forks.
Bed of Nails
The big chimney to the right of the first pitch of Cat in the Hat.
As you come around the south-east buttress, and start climbing up the rubble, this is the first big chimney encountered.
Cat in the Hat
One of the most popular multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks due, at least in part, to large comfortable belay ledges the whole way. Can be rappelled on one 70m rope with a bit of 4th class down-climbing, or with two ropes.
Starts below an obvious left-slanting crack.
FA: Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten
Cat in the Hat (all the way)
Most people climb Cat in the Hat to the top of the 5th pitch, and then rappel. But the route can be continued past this point with about 500ft of 4th class, and then a final 5.7 chimney to an anchor, then a bit of scrambling to the summit.
This is, also, one of the possible descent routes from any other climb that summits Mescalito -- rappel the
Climb the bolted arete that goes up from the block belay at the top of pitch 3 of "Cat in the Hat".
Climbs face and cracks left of Cat in the Hat, finishing at the end of the 5th pitch of Cat in the Hat.
Up corners to a thin crack on a steep headwall several hundred feet up.
This is the face of Mescalito as viewed from the parking area and approach. It runs from the buttress on the left side that Cat in the Hat ascends the opposite side of, until it wraps to the front to the right edge of the formation to the cone of bushy and low-angled outcrops at the base of the north-east corner.
Routes described left-to-right (south-to-north).
- Descent Notes:
Many of the initial routes (up to C11H17NO3) finish somewhere along Cat in the Hat, and are descended by rappelling this route.
Climbs a deep corner/crack that splits the lower portion of the south-east buttress, almost on the cusp of the south/east sides of the formation.
Black Widow Hollow
Climbs the first deep corner along the east face of Mescalito.
Climb the face up and left of The Cookie Monster to anchors. Two 70m-rope rappels.
The Cookie Monster
On the east face of Mescalito, looking at the south side, there are two obvious big corners. This one climbs the 2nd big corner in from the south (left) side.
This finishes about 30-40 ft above the tree belay of "Cat in the Hat", an easy 5.0 not-exposed down-climb allows one to rap from there (3 raps with a single 70m rope).
|5||The Walker Spur||5.10 PG||350ft|
|6||Pine Nuts||5.10a PG||240ft|
When a Stranger Calls
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Steven Anderson
Follows an obvious corner system up the east face of Mescalito. Finishes at the 5th anchor for Cat in the Hat, rappel that to descend.
Starts at two parallel cracks about 75' left of a huge left-facing corner.
|9||This Ain't No Disco||5.9 PG||140ft|
|10||Welcome to Red Rocks||5.12||150ft|
|11||Welcome to Red Rocks Variation||5.11|
|14||The Next Century||5.10 PG||200ft|
|15||Ride the Tiger||5.9||600ft|
|19||Flakes of Wrath||5.10+ X||450ft|
This is a high wall rising almost directly out of the canyon floor, on the north side of Mescalito.
First pitch of 5.11a, then lots of easier climbing to the top of Mescalito.
8 pitches plus about 250 ft of 4th class.
|3||Parental Guidance||5.12- PG13||2170ft|
|4||Short Circuit||5.11 PG||60ft|
|5||Risky Business||5.10+ III PG||4360ft|
|6||Risky Business Variation||5.11+|
|7||Excellent Adventure||5.11- R||3350ft|
Alternate first pitch to Excellent Adventure.
Heart of Darkness
5th pitch at 5.11c, rest at 5.9 or less.
Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.
FA: Nick Nordblom,Jon Martinet, 1979
Dark Shadows - all the way
Continue on another 6 pitches to the top of Mescalito after the usual rappel point and the end of pitch 4. Not a trivial undertaking.
Dark Shadows variant.
Chasing Shadows variant.
|14||Slot Machine||5.10 PG||150ft|