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Description

The tall (about 250m) buttress south-facing buttress. It has a low right-curving arch in the center, then a 2nd higher one about half-way up near the right side.

The classic, Birdland, goes up this wall.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 Rawlpindi Trad 580ft

A decent alternate if Birdland is crowded.

Start about 30m left of Birdland, in a steep gully. Go up the gully for about 320ft (2 pitches), to a comfortable ledge about 15 feet right of the gully. From there head up and slightly right on the face past a couple bolts to an anchor. Then step right and go up blocky cracks to a rap anchor.

Descent: rappel the top two pitches with 2 ropes, on the second rappel divert to the 3rd anchor of Birdland (almost directly below), then finish the rappel down Birdland.

2
5.8 * The Big Horn Trad 700ft

Climb the first two pitches of Birdland, then head up and left to the big chimney (50ft), then up a big crack on the left face of the chimney to an anchor (120ft). Rap from here (usual), or continue up another couple pitches to the top of the formation.

Or climb the first two pitches of Rawlpindi, then instead of branching right onto the face, continue up the chimney to the left.

3
5.10d Psycho Date Mixed 160ft, 3

After climbing the first pitch of Birdland, walk about 15 feet left on the ledge. This climb goes directly up the varnished face. It finishes at the same ledge as the 2nd pitch of Birdland, so can be used as an alternate 2nd pitch for someone looking for a bit more spice.

4
5.8 Valore Mixed 300ft, 2

Starts in the grotto behind the big boulder just to the right of Birdland.

5
5.7 *** Birdland Trad 500ft

A superb sustained route at the grade (5.7+). Very popular, due to bolted anchors, ability to be rappelled on single 70m rope, and very good climbing with generally solid protection.

Start below the left-most of 2 obvious long cracks the split the lower part of the varnished buttress left of the corner that Spectrum climbs to the roof 60ft up. This is a few yards above a huge boulder that leans against the cliff creating a tunnel.

  1. Climb the left crack to an anchor on a treed ledge. 110ft. 5.5 (Handren says 5.6, but it doesn't climb that hard.)

  2. Climb straight up from the anchor, then follow a crack in the wall right of the main chimney to a ledge. Up the steep corner, then right under a block to an anchor at the right end of a big ledge. 110ft 5.7.

  3. Go up and right about 10ft of easy ground to a left-leaning corner. At the top, traverse left past a bolt (crux) then up a steep crack to a ledge. Then up and right to the anchor. 85ft, 5.7+.

  4. Go up about 20ft to a horizontal crack, then move up and right accross discontinuous cracks to an anchor on the face. This pitch has the most complicated route-finding -- generally, when in doubt, go up or right. On the face there should be a down-arching horizontal curve, and the anchor being aimed for is near the bottom of the curve. Belay at anchors with huecos for your feet. 95ft 5.6.

  5. Move up and right to a thin crack, then over a bulge and up a thin (finger crack) on a varnished face with small holds and small gear. Finish on a small triangular, down-sloping ledge (crux). 95ft, 5.7+.

  6. Variant, adds an extra 75ft pitch, not usually climbed due to fragile rock and run-out climbing. Climb up passing a small roof on the right, then continue up and right to an anchor in a small right-facing corner. 75ft, 5.7.

FA: Mark Limage, Chris Burton

6
5.11 Spectrum Trad 640ft
7
5.10+ Brass Balls Trad 400ft

Climbs the large corner/gully that defines the right side of the Spectrum Buttress. The start of the gully has its own pyramid buttress, start up the left side of this.

Rappel with a 60m rope.