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An excellent route with a unique and freaky crux on P2.

P1) 100ft, 5.7, climb the broken face with cam placements in horizontal breaks, then move across to the left facing corner for a few moves, then follow the diagonal crack up and right to a bolted anchor.

P2) 160ft, 5.8, straight up the varnished face with bizarre balls for holds, easy to the first bolt, then the balls reduce in size up to the 2nd bolt, and reduce in size further for the crux up to the crack above. The crack turns into a dihedral, follow the crack to a bolted belay.

P3) 200ft, 5.7, climb the right facing corner above and move left on to the face between 10-20 feet below the roof. The angle backs-off quickly. Continue until you have no rope left and set a trad belay in the crack.

P4) you're probably left with 40 foot of 4th class or maybe 5.0 climbing to the top.

Descent: The descent gully is on the other side of the pinnacle you climbed, however, the safest access is to walk up and right through bushes to the highest point and down to a large tree with rappel slings. Three abseils lead down, something like 40m from tree, 20m from tree, 27m from bolts. Follow cairns and a vague track down to your packs.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Joe Herbst, Betsy Herbst, Randall Grandstaff & Tom Kauffman, Mar 1977


Located in Lotta Balls Wall approx:
Lat/Long: 36.077770,-115.477752

Route Grade Citations

5.8 II PG Community registered grade
5.8 Dave Curry
5.8 PG Rock Climbing Red Rocks
5.8 Charles Cooper
II 5.8 Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sweet great beautiful scary crack

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