Site navigation

Section navigation

Description:

Start on a boulder. P1) 140ft, 5.8, climb a flake to the left facing corner and bolt. Horizontal traverse left, climb right facing corner to a second bolt, the horizontal traverse back right. Climb the shallow corner/crack up to a single bolt anchor with a thread below, you can also supplement with cams above.

P2) 150ft, 5.6, basically climb straight up the face, the challenge is finding gear placements, maybe wander slightly left and return right to a double bolt belay in white rock.

P3) 100ft, 5.8, it looks intimidating, almost overhanging. Move right to a crack and climb to a roof, place a cam with extended sling then step out right and traverse to a bolt, then up a short steep wall to a very laid-back slab. Wander up and set a trad belay in the crack. Expect a bit of rope drag.

P4) 100ft, low 5th class, straight up the crack to the top.

Descent: Walk left to a saddle between Lotta Balls Wall and the main cliff. Continue down the gully on the other side down to a large tree with rappel slings. Three abseils lead down, something like 40m from tree, 20m from tree, 27m from bolts. Follow cairns and a vague track down to your packs.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Jorge Urioste & Joanne Urioste, 1978

Location:  

Located in Lotta Balls Wall approx:
Lat/Long: 36.077770,-115.477752

Route Grade Citations

5.8 PG Community registered grade
*Ryan Siacci
**Richard Pattison
5.8 PG Rock Climbing Red Rocks

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 60%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux intimidating

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Black Magic (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.