|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Moderate Mecca|
|5.10+||★★ Side Effects
Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.
Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.
|5.10 PG||★ Stew on This
|5.10 PG||Is It Soup Yet?
|5.10||★★ Chicken Soup for the Soul
|5.6||Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo
|5.7||★ From Soup to Nuts
|5.9||★★ The Singing Love Pen
|5.8||★★ Valentine's Day
|5.10+||★★ Ace of Hearts
|5.9||★★ Pending Disaster
|5.9 A2||★ Pending Project
|5.3||★ Penny Lane
|5.4||★ Abbey Road
A narrow crack on a slab about 10 feet to the left of the corner. Fun and easy, can probably be led with all passive gear.
|5.8 PG||★★ Fleet Street
Starts about 10' left of Abbey road -- look for a couple bolts in the slabby face.
Very very run-out on lead, bad ground-fall potential, poor gear other than the widely spaced bolts.
TR from the common anchor -- start on the boulder and pull up the steep/overhanging pink face to easier ground.
|5.9||★ The Haj
|5.7 PG||★★ Sir Climbalot
|5.7||★ The Route to Mecca
|5.9 R||Treacherous Journey
|5.11a||★★★ Feelin' Groovy
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Jabba The Hut Rock|
|5.8||Han Soloing Variation 1
|5.10||Han Soloing Variaion 2
|5.9||★★ Aliens Have Landed
|5.8||★ Carrie Fissure
|5.8 X||Obie-One Keone
|5.8||★ Unknown 1
Unknown sport route left of Shallow Fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.
|5.8||★ Unknown 2
Face climb to the right of Shallow fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.-
|5.9 PG||Shallow Fried Cracken
Crack is generally too shallow for jamming but lots of face moves keep the climbing pretty mellow. Protection is tricky with lots of passive placements and generally small cams. Tricams will work here. Bolted anchors.
|5.10- R||★ Gold Bikini and Cinnamon Bun Hairdo
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Red Spring Rock|
|5.8 R||Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. Town
|5.9 R||Flying Pumpkin
|5.8||★★ Classic Corner
I really liked this route as a lead. It is 5.8 if you use holds on the face, 5.9 if you stay in the crack. Protection is abundant although there are a couple of run outs.
|5.6||★ Badger's Buttress
|5.12+||Love on the Rocks
|5.12-||Contempt of Court
|5.10d PG||Boulder Dash
|5.9 PG||Black Licorice
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Coco Crag|
Climb the face on the right inside the chimney.
Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.
|5.10d||★★ Stupid Cat
Bolt route just to the right of Cocopuss.
|5.8||Fontanar de Rojo
|5.7||Ruta de Roja
|5.9||Moon where the wind blows
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Cannibal Crag East Side|
|5.12c||★★★ New Wave Hookers
|5.12b||★ Fear this Sport
|5.8 PG||★ Caliban
|5.4||★ Cannibal Crack
|5.10d PG||★ Baseboy
|5.11a||★★ Baseboy Direct
|5.12a||★ Save the Heart to Eat Later
|5.11b PG||★★★ Caustic
The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Cannibal Crag West Side|
|5.11c||★★ Have a Beer with Fear
|5.11+||★★ Fear This
|5.10d||★★ Elbows of Mac and Ronnie
|5.9||★ What's Eating You?
FA: Todd Swain, Randy Schenkel & and Andy Schenkel
|5.8||★ A Man in Every Pot
FA: Debbie Brenchley & Todd Swain
|5.10-||★ Mac and Ronnie in Cheese
FA: Todd Swain & Debbie Brenchley
|5.7||★ Ma and Pa in Kettle
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Cannibal Crag Nearby Stuff|
|5.10+||★ Shit Howdy
|5.11||Risk Brothers Roof
|5.9||★ Zona Rosa
|5.6 X||Shishka Bob
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Riding Hood Wall|
Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.
|5.9||★★★ Big Bad Wolf
Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall.
The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti.
P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts.
P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts.
P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts.
Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully.
Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m!
Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels.
FA: Dan Young, L Gallia & E Allen, 2011
|67m, 3, 26|
|5.6||★★ Physical Graffiti
P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.
FA: Jon Martinet, Randal Grandstaff & Scott Gordon
|5.9||★ Over the Hill to Grandmother's House
A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.
FA: Bob Logerquist & John Williamson
|5.9 PG||Lil' Red
|5.9||Lil Red - variation
About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.
|Calico Basin Red Spring Area Ranch Hands Crag|
|5.11b||Mexican Secret Agent Man
|5.4 X||Roman Hands
|5.10 X||Blood Stains
|5.10+||★★★ The Fox
Not really part of Ranch Hands Crag, this is up above Ranch Hands and Dickie Cliff -- about mid-way between the two of them.
A clean-cut right-facing corner.