Reed's Creek Mostly sport climbing33 routes in crag
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Small sport climbing area located between Franklin and Petersburg with limestone cliffs very similar to Franklin Gorge, but with more moderate climbs. South facing wall with all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.11 and potential for more climbs between already established ones.
Minimal parking, with a short road hike, and a good High Speed Trail system. Located on public lands, in the National Forest. Generations of locals have hunted game here, so apprise yourself of hunting seasons & regulations, and be respectful of other user groups. Please note that the plateau above the routes is PRIVATE LAND, and the land owner does not permit encroachment of any sort.
Turn on Reeds's Creek Road from Rt 220 near Upper Track, WV. There will be two small pull-outs on the left: first about 100 ft from the 220 intersection and second about 500 feet by the stream crossing. Both can take 2-3 cars. The trail-head is about half way between 2 pull-outs in the right. The trail is easy to spot because of steep rock steps leading from the road.
A typical Potomac Highlands approach, short & steep. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge.
Where to stay
Franklin, WV is 15 min. away with stores and motels.
Thorn Springs Campground near Franklin is 20 min. away. Privately owned.
Big Bend campground in Smoke Hole Canyon near Ketterman is 30 min. away. This USDA Forest Service campground is one of the the most scenic and secluded in the area. Great destination on it's own.
Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, walk on the left side of the road, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.
Begin in a large open book on the right side of wall, just right of Grapevine Massacre and it's large roof with a chain draw. Climb shallow chimney on the right side of the open book past 2 bolts, to a third one at the base of the headwall on the left side of the open book. Continue face climbing up past five more bolts, with a good rest in between, finishing at a set of ring anchors. Very worthwhile.
FFA: Michael Gray, 2010
Beginning in the maw of a large cave, just left of Winter Harvest with a large horizontal roof about 20 ft from the ground with a chain draw. Climb up past a bolt to the roof. Continue past 4 bolts under the roof, then onto a beautiful head wall. Continue past five more bolts, finishing at a set of chain draws. Very impressive, and quite burly.
FFA: Ryan Eubank, 2009
FFA: M. Fisher / M. Gray, 2010
The rightmost route at The Boneyard, 4 bolts, to a two bolt anchor. Very fun.
FFA: Michal Stewart, 2010
At the "Boneyard" just right of Sea of Tranquility. This is known to be one of the first sport routes at Reed's Creek. Follow the shiny hangers up to a BIG roof with good holds. Pull the roof, and continue up to a set of bolts with chains & links. A very good line, with a bouldery crux. This route is believed to have been established by a Seneca guide by the name of Justin Day. If anyone has any other info, please post up in the comments.
FFA: Justin Day