Reed's Creek Mostly Sport climbing40 routes in crag
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Small sport climbing area located between Franklin and Petersburg with limestone cliffs very similar to Franklin Gorge, but with more moderate climbs. South facing wall with all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.11 and potential for more climbs between already established ones. For up to date information, check out Mike Gray's rakkup guide http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/smoke-hole-canyon-reeds-creek-rock-climbing/
Located on public lands, in the National Forest. Generations of locals have hunted game here, so apprise yourself of hunting seasons & regulations, and be respectful of other user groups. Please note that the plateau above the routes is PRIVATE LAND, and the land owner does not permit encroachment of any sort.
Turn on Reeds's Creek Road from Rt 220 near Upper Track, WV. There will be two small pull-outs on the left: first about 100 ft from the 220 intersection and second about 500 feet by the stream crossing. Both can take 2-3 cars. Additional parking can be found on the intersection with Rt 220. The trail-head is about half way between 2 pull-outs on the right. The trail is easy to spot because of steep rock steps leading from the road.
A typical Potomac Highlands approach, short & steep, but on a good trail. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge.
Where to stay
Eagle Rock private campground is 10 min. away at "38.824398, -79.290244". Beautiful location, but all you get is field to pitch your tent and an outhouse.
Franklin, WV is 15 min. away with stores and motels.
Thorn Springs Campground near Franklin is 20 min. away. Privately owned.
Big Bend campground in Smoke Hole Canyon near Ketterman is 30 min. away. This USDA Forest Service campground is one of the the most scenic and secluded in the area. Great destination on it's own.
Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, walk on the left side of the road, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.
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