Topo #9634

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
3 UNKNOWN #4

At Gypsies Wall (the first wall on the trail), this is the third route from the right. Start to the left of a little alcove with blacken walls at a bolt with area of freshly exposed rock to the right. Pull the crux around the first bolt and follow on easier terrain through broken down face. 4 bolts to chain anchors.

5.8 Sport 49ft, 4 Unlink route

Topo #9622

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
6 Chi Like Fire

The trail from Gypsy wall to other areas goes all the way to the wall at the place with large partially detached column. To the left of the column there is a deep crack, face, arete and larger face again. Start there and follow 4-5 bolts t0 the right to a bulge with old, rusty, down-pointing piton. Continue to the top.

5.10+ Sport Project 90ft Unlink route

Topo #9626

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
20 Disorientation 101

From the ground directly below the anchors of 'Internal Dialogue', climb straight up to the big roof, to clip a bolt. Pull the roof, to another clip, then climb past one more bolt, and finish at the anchors of Internal Dialogue.

5.11b Sport 52ft, 7 Unlink route
21 Internal Dialogue

Good sustained climbing past four bolts, leading a good rest on a small ledge with a bolt. Climb past the bolt to another good rest. From the last rest, trend right, surmounting the lip, then the slightest traverse sneaks past the final roof, to a wonderfully exposed finish. Seven bolts, to a two bolt anchor with links. Cleaning the draws on top-rope is advisable.

5.8 Sport 52ft, 7 Unlink route
22 Black Label

Thin climbing past four bolts, easing slightly at the fifth, then up to a good rest on a ledge. A brief run-out above the ledge, then two more bolts, finishing at a set of chain draws hanging out of the left side of the very large triangle-shaped roof above.

5.11+ Sport 54ft, 7 Unlink route
23 ** Block Magic

Steep & sustained, climbing out of a small maw and onto the face above, passing a small roof on your right, then up through a slightly larger roof to gain the upper arete. Seven bolts, to a set of chain draws. Fun, pumpy, and engaging.

5.10a Sport 59ft, 7 Unlink route

Topo #9627

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
25 Dangerous Freedoms

Climb up a slab with a crack on the left. A #3 Camalot can protect the run-out to the first bolt. Climb up to a good rest at the third bolt, then continue up the steep face, easing off to finish at a set of chains. A very good route with a nice sequential crux.

5.10- Sport 61ft, 6 Unlink route

Topo #9568

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
26 ** Bridge Burner

Start 10 feet downhill from Winter Harvest on a pyramid of rocks stacked so one can reach a large starting hold. Climb steep rock past three bolts, to a good rest at the forth clip. Continue up the beautiful face on smaller holds, finishing at a set of chains. Very high quality overhanging route with some hard to see holds placed exactly where they need to be.

5.10a Sport 55ft, 6 Unlink route
27 UNKNOWN #2

Another early route, that is both devious & sequential. Seven bolts, to a now two bolt anchor.

5.10c Sport 62ft, 7 Unlink route
28 ** Winter Harvest

Begin in a large open book on the right side of wall, just right of Grapevine Massacre and it's large roof with a chain draw. Climb shallow chimney on the right side of the open book past 2 bolts, to a third one at the base of the headwall on the left side of the open book. Continue face climbing up past five more bolts, with a good rest in between, finishing at a set of ring anchors. Very worthwhile.

5.8 Sport 62ft, 8 Unlink route
29 ** Grapevine Massacre

Beginning in the maw of a large cave, just left of Winter Harvest with a large horizontal roof about 20 ft from the ground with a chain draw. Climb up past a bolt to the roof. Continue past 4 bolts under the roof, then onto a beautiful head wall. Continue past five more bolts, finishing at a set of chain draws. Very impressive, and quite burly. This seems to be the same as "Harlem" 5.12 b-c (FA: Mike Farnsworth) described at http://www.mountainproject.com/v/harlem/110118878

5.11c Sport 69ft, 10 Unlink route

Topo #9574

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
28 ** Winter Harvest

Begin in a large open book on the right side of wall, just right of Grapevine Massacre and it's large roof with a chain draw. Climb shallow chimney on the right side of the open book past 2 bolts, to a third one at the base of the headwall on the left side of the open book. Continue face climbing up past five more bolts, with a good rest in between, finishing at a set of ring anchors. Very worthwhile.

5.8 Sport 62ft, 8 Unlink route
29 ** Grapevine Massacre

Beginning in the maw of a large cave, just left of Winter Harvest with a large horizontal roof about 20 ft from the ground with a chain draw. Climb up past a bolt to the roof. Continue past 4 bolts under the roof, then onto a beautiful head wall. Continue past five more bolts, finishing at a set of chain draws. Very impressive, and quite burly. This seems to be the same as "Harlem" 5.12 b-c (FA: Mike Farnsworth) described at http://www.mountainproject.com/v/harlem/110118878

5.11c Sport 69ft, 10 Unlink route

Topo #9573

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
34 *** Sea of Tranquility

At "The Boneyard" just left of Catfish Stanglehold. Scramble up to a large ledge. A # 8 Hexcentric can provide additional safety to reach the first bolt. Continued moderate climbing leads to the first roof, and the third bolt. Sustained steep climbing passing two more bolts and one more roof. There might be several ways off climbing past the second roof, traversing to the left or to the right to easier terrain. Finish at a set of chains. Due to the high angle, it is advisable to have a second remove the draws, and make their descent via rappel. There are some loose rocks at the roof and large loose blocks further to the left of the roof but possibly within the reach, so belayer and other members of the party should not stand underneath.

5.10- Sport 51ft, 5 Unlink route
33 * Catfish Stanglehold

At the "Boneyard" just right of Sea of Tranquility. This is known to be one of the first sport routes at Reed's Creek. Follow the shiny hangers up to a BIG roof with good holds. Pull the roof, and continue up to a set of bolts with chains & links. A very good line, with a bouldery crux. This route is believed to have been established by a Seneca guide by the name of Justin Day. If anyone has any other info, please post up in the comments.

5.11a Sport 53ft, 5 Unlink route

Topo #9582

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
34 *** Sea of Tranquility

At "The Boneyard" just left of Catfish Stanglehold. Scramble up to a large ledge. A # 8 Hexcentric can provide additional safety to reach the first bolt. Continued moderate climbing leads to the first roof, and the third bolt. Sustained steep climbing passing two more bolts and one more roof. There might be several ways off climbing past the second roof, traversing to the left or to the right to easier terrain. Finish at a set of chains. Due to the high angle, it is advisable to have a second remove the draws, and make their descent via rappel. There are some loose rocks at the roof and large loose blocks further to the left of the roof but possibly within the reach, so belayer and other members of the party should not stand underneath.

5.10- Sport 51ft, 5 Unlink route

Topo #9567

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
36 * Superman

'Superman" area is currently the furthest established route "upstream", at the end of the maintained trail. Begin at some large, slanting boulders just right of the steep 3 foot wide earth ramp leading to the top. Follow the easiest line up through big holds above 2nd bolt. 3rd bolt cannot be seen from the ground. Traverse right to the arete after the 4th bolt and enjoy. West facing, morning shade, and evening sun. 4 bolts, to a set of welded cold shuts.

5.7 Sport 51ft, 4 Unlink route

Topo #9637

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
37 Superwoman

'Superman" area is currently the furthest established route "upstream", at the end of the maintained trail. Begin at the face just left of the steep 3 foot wide earth ramp leading to the top. Follow the bolts through tricky face climbing to the anchors.

5.9 Sport 4 Unlink route

Topo #9625

Please login or sign up to edit topo's

Keyboard shortcuts: esc Deselect routes and areas while editing